you can use two bolts in place of the bolt with spacer. The stock arms should fit that way.

 

Maybe Leo can take some pics of those 2 things.
If not, I'll see him this Sunday at a carshow we're entering, will takes pics then.



I've read that it's to correct the rear geometry in relation to the rear axle after a car is lowered. Or, to provide more of a downward force on the rear axle when the car is launched forward.

 

Speed bumps should not be an issue with the Brackets installed since they are in about the same location as the centerline of the wheel.

Richard

 

Bill, why do they give you the option or a higher or lower hole on the relocation bracket? Is it there because some cars are obviously lower than others?


Thanks,
Brandon

 

What concerns me about my BMR drop brackets is the fact that they are now the lowest point on my car and provide less than 3 inches of ground clearance with the stock 27 inch diameter tires:

Attachment 35744

One of my LCA's is slightly bent and now I cannot use the local car wash as the bracket interferes with the rail system. I am worried that if I ever hit a RR track or some other obstruction at speed there will be major damage.

BTW, it does not look as though I could use the upper hole with the stock LCA without modifying it. So much for adjustability. If I did use the upper hole, I would be even more worried about the bracket catching on something.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a bracket that works with stock LCAs and provides minimal drop?

 

Since the bracket is attached to the axle I don't think it would be possible to bottom out unless there's a rod or something crazy sticking out of the road in which case I guess you'd be screwed anyways.

 

Thanks for the clarification

 

Got some ground clearance pics from Leo's car yesterday.

Tires are 235/50ZR18 (stock 18" Bullitt)

 

Only about 1" lower than the sway bar.

Richard

 

Thanks for the additional pics, Bill.

 

I went to the BMR homepage and discovered 3 different sets of lower control arms and I didn't see any explanation of the differences. I am interested in getting rid of the wheel hop, not racing or lowering my 07 GT. Will the $129 version serve this purpose?

Ron

 

Yes those are the ones you see installed in the write-up above.

 

There are other brackets that would give more ground clearance in this application since the lower mounting point is not used. For stock (or GT500) LCAs, the BMR brackets are too low for street use IMHO.

 

Thanks for the install write-up Bill, it was very done. I just ordered my car today and you have inspired me to do some of these installs myself. Thanks!

As a noob, I must ask, were the bushings greased with a "grease gun"? Also, what type of grease was used? TIA

 

ur welcome!

Yes, I used a standard grease gun. Mine was preloaded with SeaDoo synthetic grease (for my watercraft, but's it's fully synthetic and waterproof), so that's what I used.

If I had to go buy a grease cartridge, I'd probably get the Mobil 1 since I'm using it's products already.

 

I'll be the next one to confirm that the stock Ford LCA's will not go together using the top hole in the BMR relo bracket. However, I've been driving my car with the BMR relo brackets and the stock Ford LCAs in the lower hole for over a year with no ground clearance issues. You'd have to drive a rear tire nearly parallel off a tall concrete curb to hit it due to its close proximity to the tire.

Another function of the relo brackets besides returning the suspension angles to more of a stock set-up for lowered cars is that you can make adjustments to the car's instant center to control weight distribution for launching your car.

Lastly, regarding marking the shocks, that is one way to estimate normal ride height. The car should be at normal ride height before tightening the LCA bolts in order to prevent pre-loading the suspension. If you go with LCAs with rod ends, you don't need to have the car at ride height to tighten the bolts. Other ways to accomplish this... a drive-on lift or jack the car up and set the her down on ramps so you still have room to get under the car to get to the bolts.

 

I have had the BMR LCA's and relo brackets on my car for about two years, no issues with ground clearance. I am using the older BMR tubular LCA and the weld in bracket with the stock sway bar and mounts. My car is lowered 1.3" front and 1.5" rear.

The issue I have with the relo bracket is that the right side bracket makes contact with the sway bar when I turn to the right on an incline, as in going from the street into a drive way or parking lot that has anything more than a 10 degree incline. This only happens with the right side bracket.

Has anyone experienced that problem, if so, did you correct it and how did you do it.

Bobby M.

 

Since there was talk of clearance I just noticed in the above picture that the LCA Bracket does not appear to be any lower than the gas tank already sits.

Richard

 

seeing how yours are welded on I would think grinding some of the bracket away enough to clear the sway bar would be ok.

 

Looking at ToacBill's photos above seems like BMR added that radiused section to clear the sway bar. I'll have to check out mine tonight.