GT Premi

Has anyone installed a BMR k-member and used it for road racing or auto cross? If so, how does it perform? I ordered one before, but sent it back after reading on their site that it was designed primarily for drag racing.

MooStang05gt

I think you have miss read the BMR K-Member info... a tubular K-member is ideal for open track or autocrossing, it is strong, light weight and gives much better access to the under side of the engine. If I were going to do any type of high performance driving I would want a tubular K-member. Come to think of it, I would like to have one anyway for the street, but it's just not in my retirement budget. Most serious road racers use tubular K-members where the rules allow for such modifications.

The lightweight tubular BMR radiator support/ swaybar delete is for drag racing only... not the K-member.

Bobby M.

Import-Slaya

As good a company as BMR is, their K-member and A-arms just haven't given the warm and fuzzies to the cornercarvers here. Do a search and you will see plenty of, uh, spirited commentary.

Regarding their K-member, it isn't ideal for road course work or autocrossing. The main reason being that it doesn't appear to allow for repositioning of the A-arms to offset suspension geometry change (lowered roll center) that results from installation of lowering springs. If my take on this is wrong, someone please chime in.

If you are spending money on a K-member for handling purposes (i.e. less nose weight, stiffer, etc...), chances are you have already spent the money on lowering springs and other suspension mods. It just doesn't make sense to install an aftermarket K-member that doesn't correct the suspension geometry of a lowered car.

If they haven't changed this already, BMR should put out a next generation K-member to allow for this. All it takes is a set of mounting holes slightly higher than stock.

If you really want one now, it seems like the one from Ross Mustang (http://www.rossmustang.com/tkm.htm) is the best option.

MooStang05gt

You are absolutely correct. It is appearent you have done more research on K-members than I have.. I was not aware that BMR's K-member didn't have the proper mounting location for the correct suspension geometry. That suprises me about BMR, most of their parts are well engineered and high quality.

Since, I don't have any plans to install one on my car, it hasn't been high on my research list. However, tubular K-members properly constructed, are a real plus for someone who wants to do open track or autocross events.

There are plenty of other manufacturers out there that make the correct ones.. Griggs Racing, D&D Motorsports, etc.

Bobby M.

Import-Slaya

I've looked into it a fair amount and have come to the conclusion that it will be another year or two before I reconsider this upgrade. As much as I'd like to drop 30-40 lbs. off the front end right now with a K-member/A-arm swap, I want to see what MaximumMotorsports and the names you mentioned come out with for the '05+.

RadBOSS

Well an easier way to correct the front suspension geometry is with the lowered ball joint, not the a-arm pivots.

Unless you are a hard core track racer, I can hardly see the benefit and your money and time can be spent better elsewhere. Just another go fast widget most drivers skill can't take the benefit of. Put more effort into your driving technique and skill will pay off more.

In the end, the driver makes the car, not the opposite. So IMO don't get caught up in every go fast widget that comes along.

Import-Slaya

Problem with this is that you have to run 18" wheels.

hi5.0

Griggs version = baddonkey, but a lot of $$$$.

GT Premi

Thanks, guys! Anyone out there with some first hand experience running the BMR unit "around" a race track?