Hello, I ordered a BMR Adj Panhard Rod and it should be arriving today. I wanted to install this myself and was wondering if I can just put the rear end on Rhino Ramps to do the install while the suspension is loaded? I did a search but did not find a write up on anyone installing a adj panhard rod themselves. Installation looks like a no brainer (two bolts)

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

you'll want the rear end in the air. Think about what the part does...it moves the rear end and centers it under the car...kinda hard to move the rear end left to right with the cars wieght on it right?

 

I did mine on ramps. I think its better that way. Its not hard to adjust that way either.

 

Wrong, The best way to adjust a adjustable pan hard bar is on ramps or the ground, the body shifts left or right to center over the axle!

 

I'll do a write-up later on Leo06GT's Steeda adj. panhard bar and lateral stiffener install.

In the meantime, here's the PDF document from the service manual. Attachment 38376


+1

 

Thanks all for the replies. What I'm really asking is, can I remove the OEM Panhard rod and install the new one while I have the rear end on the Rhino Ramps vs putting the car on jack stands and having the rear end in the air. I don't have jack stands so I was concerned in a safety standpoint while removing the OEM Panhard rod while on ramps with the suspension bearing the weight of the car.

TacoBill, thanks for the link!

 

Wewp I guess Glenn answered the question and I missed it. So uninstall/install on ramps is fine then!

 

We removed the stock panhard bar, installed the new one (and lateral support), and adjusted it all while on the Rhino ramps.

 

Thanks! I'm gonna install when I get home from work! You guys are a great help!

 

I installed the one from steeda but its pretty much the same. My tips:

I'd put the car in the air just because it will take the weight off of it, plus, you have more room to work with making it a little easier to uninstall and to put the new one in. I got a set of jackstands and a floor jack from advance auto for like $40, definitely worth the money, you use them for most jobs. In my experience oil changes are the only thing thats been easier with ramps, but thats me (working on FWD cars where every bit of space helps). Its probably not that big of a deal on ramps.

(I don't know your level of mechanical expertise and I'm sure you're smarter than this --but I wasn't) DON'T LIFT BY THE DIFFERENTIAL CASING. VERY BAD.

Adjust it to stock length before you put it in(stick each bolt through the end of both bars at the same time to make sure they match). It'll make it much easier. You can always fine-tune it later. You HAVE TO adjust it with the suspension under the car's weight on a level surface. With the car in the air, the axle hangs enough by the upper panhard mount to pull off to the passenger side so it won't be even.

Locktite will help it from loosening up in the future. RadBoss suggested torquing it down to 80 ft-lbs but I couldn't get a torque wrench in there, so I settled for **** tight and locktite.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

 

Close, but no cigar. It centers the body over the rear axle When I installed mine, I had the car on the ground to center the rear. When you move the adjustment nut, it actually moves the body of the car, not the axle assembly

 

1/2 tank of gas also

 

I hate to bring this up again, but why not??? Every mustang I see at tire shops is being raised that way. I have yet to see one lifted on a 4 point lift or a ramp lift.

If im not correct, i think the only reason the manual states not to lift from the casing is because it allows the car to move. (incase you dont block the front/rear tires).

 

 

my car loves being lifted from the diff casing!

 

As long as you're careful not to touch the differential cover, there is absolutely nothing wrong with jacking the car up by the "pumpkin". The reason the manual states not to do so, is because Ford used a flimsy cover, and they don't want you catching the cover on the jack and creating a mess.

 

Its part of the topic. The guy is asking which way to do it and this is one of the ways. Hence why I am asking for a reason why or why not.

 

I lifted it by the diff and it slipped off the jack, wrecking my diff cover, panhard rod and lateral support. I found it was cheaper to replace the stock pieces with Steeda bits (hence the saying in my sig "...it's cheaper to replace it with performance parts"). I was **** lucky I was smart enough not to be under the car when I was lifting it or it would have been a closed-casket funeral. Whether or not the cover can handle it (which it can't if you make a mistake) and regardless of how sturdy the actual steel housing is, its a small, curved, relatively slippery area to jack from, and not exactly solidly mounted to the car (that whole suspension thing). Plus, do you really want your rear-end balancing on the jack? And yes, it was a level surface;yes, I did have the wheels chocked; yes I was taking it slow; yes it was a real floor jack I was using, and no, I couldn't fit the jackstands under there yet when it fell. DON'T LIFT BY THE DIFF. You can lift from anywhere on the pinch weld, from the chassis-side LCA mounts, the K-member, etc. So many lift points to choose from, why take the risk?

 

Isaax, get it installed yet?

 

Out of curiosity, if you remove the existing stock panhard rod, then set the adjustment on the new adjustable panhard rod to the exact same length, would you really be that far off when you drop the car back down?