Hey all, just got my BMR adjustable panhard rod...and yes, it's cool! Anyway, the instructions state to put the grease fittings down, but they don't include a picture. I can assume that the two metal protrusions are them, but wanted to get verification. Also, when i put this thing in, I want to grease it first, so do i grease inside the bushings or just around the edges? Thanks for any help! I will post pics if I get to do the install this weekend.

-Darth
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]

 

yes the little protrusions with a dot on the end are the grease(zerk) fittings. point them down or you will never get to them after it is installed. As for greasing it before installation-Just use your finger and put some grease on the inside and the ends of the bushing. Dont grease using the fittings until it is installed.

 

Black3V...Thanks for the reply, and since you seem to be knowledgeable, could you expand a little on the greasing afterward? It's a noob question, but do those things come out? If so, then how much grease do you put in? Would it have to be enough to fill the area around the bolt?

Finally...last noob question...I saw that it's best to use white lithium grease, but is there any particular brand that works best? I saw Mobil 1 synthetic grease, Valvoline all-purpose grease, Wal mart grease, no-name grease, ect. Since I plan to get LCA's and some other suspension mods, it would be good for me (and anyone else who searches this thread two months from now) to know what the consensus is on a good brand of bearing/chassis grease. Thanks!!

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Stang @ February 2, 2006, 6:44 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Black3V...Thanks for the reply, and since you seem to be knowledgeable, could you expand a little on the greasing afterward? It's a noob question, but do those things come out? If so, then how much grease do you put in? Would it have to be enough to fill the area around the bolt?

Finally...last noob question...I saw that it's best to use white lithium grease, but is there any particular brand that works best? I saw Mobil 1 synthetic grease, Valvoline all-purpose grease, Wal mart grease, no-name grease, ect. Since I plan to get LCA's and some other suspension mods, it would be good for me (and anyone else who searches this thread two months from now) to know what the consensus is on a good brand of bearing/chassis grease. Thanks!!

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]



KC,
Grats on your new panhard bar. You will need to grease your panhard bar fittings no more than once a year. It will require very little grease. Any good (name brand grease) will do. Mobil 1/ Valvoline would be great. I don't believe there are any grease fitting on the stock panhard bar if that tells you anything.
Scott [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

 

You won't be removing the Zerk fittings. You'll need a grease gun that somewhat snap onto the zerk fittings. Install the panhard, then grease it.

 

use marine grease

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(169stang @ February 2, 2006, 8:42 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
You won't be removing the Zerk fittings. You'll need a grease gun that somewhat snap onto the zerk fittings. Install the panhard, then grease it.
[/b][/quote]

Okay, 169stang, thank you for putting that out there! Us non-gear heads need to know this. Alright, I think I get it now. You have all been extremely helpful and now my panhard rod won;t squeak horribly after I install it!

-Darth
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]

 

noise is only half of it. The poly bushings will last a bit longer being greased. I used Marine grease as well. You'll need to keep putting grease in until you either see the bushing bulge or grease come out somewhere.

 

After reading Dustin's write up on LCAs I found they had an interesting discussion about greasing the panhard bar (great write up BTW Dustin). There was mention that the driver's side fitting wouldn't work with a grease gun?

1. I got the PH006 adjustable bar that adjusts in the middle, so which side is the driver's side, long or short end?

2. If regular grease gun wouldn't work, what will? And can I get it cheap at Walmart?

3. 169stang, when you say the bushing would bulge, if it is already installed in the bracket, will they bulge noticably or should I just go until the grease flows?

Thanks

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Stang @ February 2, 2006, 11:11 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
After reading Dustin's write up on LCAs I found they had an interesting discussion about greasing the panhard bar (great write up BTW Dustin). There was mention that the driver's side fitting wouldn't work with a grease gun?

1. I got the PH006 adjustable bar that adjusts in the middle, so which side is the driver's side, long or short end?

2. If regular grease gun wouldn't work, what will? And can I get it cheap at Walmart?

3. 169stang, when you say the bushing would bulge, if it is already installed in the bracket, will they bulge noticably or should I just go until the grease flows?

Thanks

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
The panhard comes with instructions. Everything will be spelled out there. My car's not here, so I don't recall exactly which side is which. I THINK the adjustment is on the right hand side. You can p/u some Zerk fittings from any parts store. If you take out the straight fitting and install a 90 degree one, it'll work fine. Just pump the grease into the fitting and watch the bushing. You'll see the lip of the bushing get fatter or grease will come out. If you just watch, you'll see it. Yes, you can get a cheap grease gun. Any grease gun will work. You do need to grease all of them!

 

Okay Fellow TMS'ers, I feel like an ex-virgin all over again! I got to the garage, and many hours later I have a freshly lowered GT with a brand new Adjustable Panhard!! Couple of things for all those considering it...

1. It is totally worth it! My ride looks a little more evil now...
2. Use the spring change-out write up here on the forums, it is almost complete...
3. The rear springs are NOT as easy to get out as some claim, especially for a novice (my hands are all cut up)
4. When you do lower the springs, make sure you have lots of jack stands and jacks
5. You will need a full metric socket set and an air impact wrench...anything else is justgoing to make it more painful
6. You will screw up your alignment...be sure to get to the dealer quickly to fix it
7. Mark your wheels before you take them off, or you will be guessing where they go back to, assuming yours are specifically balanced for position
8. The F#@^#(*)_@ strut plate will fall apart, and you will be forced to develop an instant engineering degree to get all the ball bearings back in the ring and reassemble...just accept it and don't forget extra grease!
9. You will not be able to use your torque wrench on the strut nut...unless you have a special one...you probably don't
10. DO NOT use a thick jack...whatever fit under your car when you started WILL NOT fit under it when you finish.

BTW, I've never done anything like this before, and I only could because of the great people on this forum!! As for the BMR adjustable panhard...darn, that was easy! It was like easy button easy...until I got to the adjusting part...lets just say, it takes a few tries to figure out which way to turn it (BMR, might want to add the little lineto the instructions that says to shift right, turn clockwise...). Otherwise, it looks sweet and is waaaaay better than the stock! Can't wait to put my 18's back on to see how they close up the fenders now! BTW, I used cut stock springs with 1 coil off the front and 1.5 coils off the rear. WIll post pics tomorrow or Tuesday when I get some sunlight.

Big Thanks to 169stang for his help with the grease questions...my bushings bulged and are very greasy!!

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]

 

Glad to hear you're happy with the part. Let us know if we can help you with anything else.
Jason/BMR

 

Okay, and here's the pic, sorry for the bad quality, it was getting late.

Before

[attachmentid=44640]

After

[attachmentid=44638]

HEHEHEHEHE

 

Just an update, and important for all those thinking about lowering their GT's:

I took the car to the dealer for an alignment because I don't know of a knowledgeable outside shop. Turns out the modest drop I did (1 coil front, 1.5 coils rear) and the adj. panhard managed to srew up the geometry very badly. My front tires were bowed out of spec, my camber was off, and my rear end toe was shifted, despit my best effort to use the plum-bob adjustment method. I really felt it when driving to the dealer, it was like the car wanted to go in four directions. Well, looks like I'll need to get the front control arms slotted, and they will use my SPC camber bolts, but in all, about 3-4 hours of labor at the dealer to get the suspension straight. That said, I'm encouraged that the alignment guy at Sheehy Ford in sprignfield VA was excited about doing the work on a new Stang. Quoted price was $500, so all you potentials out there need to factor this in. We are all capable of changing the springs and bars, but getting the car back to center requires a professional.

I'm still glad I did it!

there goes my tax return....

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Stang @ February 8, 2006, 9:24 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Just an update, and important for all those thinking about lowering their GT's:

I took the car to the dealer for an alignment because I don't know of a knowledgeable outside shop. Turns out the modest drop I did (1 coil front, 1.5 coils rear) and the adj. panhard managed to srew up the geometry very badly. My front tires were bowed out of spec, my camber was off, and my rear end toe was shifted, despit my best effort to use the plum-bob adjustment method. I really felt it when driving to the dealer, it was like the car wanted to go in four directions. Well, looks like I'll need to get the front control arms slotted, and they will use my SPC camber bolts, but in all, about 3-4 hours of labor at the dealer to get the suspension straight. That said, I'm encouraged that the alignment guy at Sheehy Ford in sprignfield VA was excited about doing the work on a new Stang. Quoted price was $500, so all you potentials out there need to factor this in. We are all capable of changing the springs and bars, but getting the car back to center requires a professional.

I'm still glad I did it!

there goes my tax return....

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

how much more would it cost to get them to install the springs while they're at it.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Stang @ February 8, 2006, 11:24 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Just an update, and important for all those thinking about lowering their GT's:

I took the car to the dealer for an alignment because I don't know of a knowledgeable outside shop. Turns out the modest drop I did (1 coil front, 1.5 coils rear) and the adj. panhard managed to srew up the geometry very badly. My front tires were bowed out of spec, my camber was off, and my rear end toe was shifted, despit my best effort to use the plum-bob adjustment method. I really felt it when driving to the dealer, it was like the car wanted to go in four directions. Well, looks like I'll need to get the front control arms slotted, and they will use my SPC camber bolts, but in all, about 3-4 hours of labor at the dealer to get the suspension straight. That said, I'm encouraged that the alignment guy at Sheehy Ford in sprignfield VA was excited about doing the work on a new Stang. Quoted price was $500, so all you potentials out there need to factor this in. We are all capable of changing the springs and bars, but getting the car back to center requires a professional.

I'm still glad I did it!

there goes my tax return....

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

This is why cutting your stock springs is a VERY, VERY bad idea. You just took all that work the Ford engineers did on the suspension and flushed it down the toilet.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Stang @ February 8, 2006, 11:24 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Just an update, and important for all those thinking about lowering their GT's:

I took the car to the dealer for an alignment because I don't know of a knowledgeable outside shop. Turns out the modest drop I did (1 coil front, 1.5 coils rear) and the adj. panhard managed to srew up the geometry very badly. My front tires were bowed out of spec, my camber was off, and my rear end toe was shifted, despit my best effort to use the plum-bob adjustment method. I really felt it when driving to the dealer, it was like the car wanted to go in four directions. Well, looks like I'll need to get the front control arms slotted, and they will use my SPC camber bolts, but in all, about 3-4 hours of labor at the dealer to get the suspension straight. That said, I'm encouraged that the alignment guy at Sheehy Ford in sprignfield VA was excited about doing the work on a new Stang. Quoted price was $500, so all you potentials out there need to factor this in. We are all capable of changing the springs and bars, but getting the car back to center requires a professional.

I'm still glad I did it!

there goes my tax return....

-Darth

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/starwars.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]For what its worth. I know my limitations and had BMR lower control arms, Panhard adjustable rod with the correct 90 grease fitting, Steeda springs installed all around and a alignment done. My hands remained undamaged and clean and I wrote the check for way less that $500 for labor. The 4:10 gears were installed at the same time for another $200. I had all the parts needed and made sure the installer did not screw up the pinion bearing. When it was all finished the wheels were all pointing in the same direction.
Labor rates in the Midwest are not out of sight if you have a clue what should be charged. If anyone orders BMR adjustable panhard rod with bushings have them replace the grease fitting. They know its a problem for greasing the one bushing and should be changing them before delivery.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(BMR Fabrication Inc. @ February 6, 2006, 8:41 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Glad to hear you're happy with the part. Let us know if we can help you with anything else.
Jason/BMR
[/b][/quote]

Why are you guys not furnishing 90 degre zerk fitting with the panhard rod when you know this is a problem?