Ghost

I noticed some of you listed fuel pump mods and some did not. I everyone running a modified pump? Seems like it's recommended but is it always necessary? Or only running above a certain amount of boost? Do boost-a-pumps do the job, or should the pump be swapped?

69Mach1-409

I'm running the GT500 dual pump setup that comes with the Whipple HO. I highly recommend them.

I was running the stock single pump @ 397whp (non-Intercooled 400hp FRPP kit with custom tune) before I upgraded to the HO kit. I do not recommend the non-IC kit at all, nor do I recommend running the OEM pump at those power levels. My tuner said my pump was maxed just before redline on a hot day... basically I could of run dangerously lean on a cold night if I ran her out.

2k7gtcs

I'm running GT500 pump also.

I got it for around $680 or so and put it in myself. It's good insurance if you ask me.

GT500 pumps, 39# injectors, 1 range colder plugs, aluminum radiator, upgraded heat exchanger, Saleen Extreme CAI and larger MAF, Steeda billet belt tensioner, PCV system delete (I'm running breathers), Kooks LT headers...

I think that's about it.

Still have stock clutch, driveshaft, water pump, fuel rails, block, rotating assembly, heads...

forensicsteve

As with most other power mods, how the car is used, is real important. If the car is dragged on a prepped surface, having just enough fuel is NOT enough.

Had GT500 dual pumps + 2 single KB boost-a-pumps, 60 lbs injectors at about 16 lbs boost. Went to the Fore Precision triple pumps at around 22 lbs boost. With the new build and expecting 25+ lbs boost, switched to fuel cell with a return style system, and 80 lb injectors. Also added methanol system to address IATs @ 22 lbs. Fuel rails/lines, intake manifold, plugs, etc etc upgraded along the way.

firestang70

I run stock pump with a BAP. I run 10 lbs boost, 39# injectors. My duty cycle on my fuel pump is in the acceptable range. I will upgrade with the GT500 pumps when I add boost later. You will be OK with 450 rwhp with stock pump and a BAP.

mswift5

My motor just gave out last week. Running the roushcharger with small pulley, cams, headers, BAP, 60lb injectors, gt500 TB, 4:10 gears. Took it to track once or twice a year, daily driver, got on it alot. Had 80,000 miles on it. The intake valves melted in one cylinder, droped down and bounced around and then finally one rod punched a hole in the piston and the other one must of melted? Anyway, looks like the stock valves just couldn't handle it anymore. I had 440 RWHP. Here is a link to some pics

http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...otor/Broke.jpg
http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...tor/Broke1.jpg

RedFire281

I've been at 9.5# boost for over 45,000 miles. Track the car 3 or 4 times a year with no issues. Running 39# injectors, stock pump, BAP and 98mm MAF.

classix_stang289

what was your tune like?
who does your installs?

RedDragon777

I am wondering if anyone is around the 500 mark with an automatic, all i have been hearing from Whipple and KB over the years is that the auto is only good for 400hp and after that it could blow up on me.

Imatk

To the OP I would stay where you are.

I upped the boost on my car after running 8 lbs for two years with not a single problem

After a week my stock clutch fried... went through three different clutches before it became a bigger pain in the butt than it was fun.

Went back to the larger pulley and was happy. Until I decided to put a new 5.4 in that is

There's a fun to pain the *** ratio that must be balanced. The more mods you have the more pain you will likely have that comes along with your fun.. just remeber that

classix_stang289

I cant really comment much because i have been supercharged for only a couple of months now and maybe 1500 miles lates no issues so far to report and im at 480rwhp and 447rwtq using a 3.125" pulley getting 10.5psi. I might be looking for a retune for more power/torque soon and go over the 500 mark lol.

Garyalpusa

Im chicken. Keep my Techco at 7psi. Over a year now with no problems with a boost a pump. Chris Rose did the tune and did not mention any fuel problems with the stock pump or spark problems with the stock plugs so they are still in the car. I do open track so its at higher rpm for long periods compared to drag racing. I keep it at 6k max cause I believe higher rpm kills a stock bottom end faster then boost. GA

CaliSpecial

I'm an auto, making 465 RWHP 475 RWTQ at 10 psi. Roush R2300 TVS on stock bottom end, stock fuel pump with BAP. Tuned by JDM, all good so far...

nite

Two yrs, 35K mi on my Brenspeed Paxton H.O. 460 rwhp with no issues whatsoever, BAP & all.

Ninjak

Running @ 435~440 atm RWHP. using stock pumps and a Bap. No issues so far...though I do think I will need to upgrade the clutch before long. I have a lot more power left, but I told BBR to leave her where she was at and he agreed.

Been having a blast at this power level, and heh that's why we do it. To have fun.

mswift5

Tune was way safe. I would have to look back at some old paperwork to find out. A local race car shop here in Washington did all the installs and dyno tune.

tom281

It's kinda funny because just like we were saying three or four years ago regarding super/turbo charged S197s.......


"Its all in the tune" LOL...... sounds pretty generic but it does seem to be valid.

Imatk

Well I think every situation is different... just like every motor.

If you beat on the car a lot, stuff will break more. If you don't it usually won't in my experience.

Also I'd like to see some dyno sheets to back up all these numbers people are claiming.

Not saying you guys aren't putting down what you're saying, but there are a lot of guys who say they're making xxx RWHP and have never even been on a dyno.

For instance my car was "supposed" to be making "at least" 425 rwhp on 7lbs and when I strapped it on the dyno it was barely making 400. And on 11lbs I was "supposed" to be making 475 or more and it did 440.

Just because a kit or vendor says you'll make xxx rwhp doesn't necessarily mean you'll make it.

To the OP you have to weigh what is more important to you. The 3v in your car was designed to make 300 crank horsepower from the factory. If you're making 100 hp more than that with a blower you're already outside of the realm of factory spec.

The fact is NOBODY knows what YOUR motor will handle. It's all a guess.

IMHO if you want 450 rwhp just for bragging rights it's not worth it... but that's me

If you want 450 rwhp because you're bored with your current level then just know it's a risk and if things go wrong be prepared to fix things.

mustangpowers

what is the problem usually, after the 500 mark? obviously the clutch and tune, but is it the factory rods and pistons? so if someone has forged internals, would it be ok for an occasional track car and street car at 525rwhp?

Imatk

If you build the engine to handle it, then it's another story.

The rods are the weakest link. But if you're going to build, I would do it right, which means upgrading the heads with valves, springs etc. to handle high boost.