The best brake upgrade for the price?
#1
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The best brake upgrade for the price?
How's it going guys? It's been a long time since I checked in. I have checked the threads and haven't found a clear cut answer to my question. I added the 400 hp Ford Racing Whipple supercharger about 6 months ago. I am due up for some new brake pads but I didn't know if I should go ahead and do other modifications to the brakes while I am at it. The car definitely doesn't stop like it used to. Do I need to go ahead and replace the whole brake system or are there specific parts that just need to be replaced? I will probably not do much more horsepower wise. It is just a weekend driver and it doesn't see any kind of track time. I just like to get on it from time to time. I don't want to break the bank, but I think I need something. I have 18x9 bullitt wheels, but no deep dishes. Any suggestions on parts, locations to purchase them and prices would greatly be appreciated.
#2
If you aren't going to track the car or anything I wouldn't do anything major to the brake system. Sounds like it just needs to have it's friction components replaced.
You can see about having your stock rotors turned, but it's not ideal IMHO. The turning process reduces the rotor mass which both weakens it slightly and reduces it's ability to sink and thus shed heat.
I would start buy purchasing a quality replacement rotor. Slotted and cross-drilled rotors look nice, but are unnecessary and also more prone to cracking than blanks. My pick in this situation is the blank rotors. Based on your driving conditions you're not gonna have problems with any of them. Just make sure it's a quality piece.
Then I'd get into a good set of brake pads. For street performance with great initial bite, a bit more heat resistance and low to no dust, I like the Carbotech Bobcat compound pads. I'd place these at all four corners.
Finally I would flush your brake system with a quality dot4 fluid. I use ATE Superblue and ATE Type 200 (same fluid but different colors which aids in flushing). This fluid is a bit more expensive, but will tolerate more heat and has a bit better hydroscopic resistance.
*Do not under any circumstances use a dot5 fluid. It is synthetic and will corrode any material that has been in contact with dot3-4 fluids. It is for brand new brake system plumbing only.
This will improve your braking to better than factory levels and the new fluid and pads should also improve pedal. If you want a stiffer pedal yet, you can swap out your soft lines with some braided lines.
Be sure to inspect your wheel bearings while you've got the system torn apart. Replace if necessary.
You can see about having your stock rotors turned, but it's not ideal IMHO. The turning process reduces the rotor mass which both weakens it slightly and reduces it's ability to sink and thus shed heat.
I would start buy purchasing a quality replacement rotor. Slotted and cross-drilled rotors look nice, but are unnecessary and also more prone to cracking than blanks. My pick in this situation is the blank rotors. Based on your driving conditions you're not gonna have problems with any of them. Just make sure it's a quality piece.
Then I'd get into a good set of brake pads. For street performance with great initial bite, a bit more heat resistance and low to no dust, I like the Carbotech Bobcat compound pads. I'd place these at all four corners.
Finally I would flush your brake system with a quality dot4 fluid. I use ATE Superblue and ATE Type 200 (same fluid but different colors which aids in flushing). This fluid is a bit more expensive, but will tolerate more heat and has a bit better hydroscopic resistance.
*Do not under any circumstances use a dot5 fluid. It is synthetic and will corrode any material that has been in contact with dot3-4 fluids. It is for brand new brake system plumbing only.
This will improve your braking to better than factory levels and the new fluid and pads should also improve pedal. If you want a stiffer pedal yet, you can swap out your soft lines with some braided lines.
Be sure to inspect your wheel bearings while you've got the system torn apart. Replace if necessary.
Last edited by jlmounce; 1/5/10 at 01:55 PM.
#3
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When I did my brake upgrade a few years back (drilled and slotted rotors and better pads) I also got Earls stainless steels brakes lines to replace the rubber hoses. For $125 I thought it was a great upgrade. Gave the pedal a much firmer feel.
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