legend05

Correct me if im wrong gentlemen but, the drivers side water bleed of plug is fed by or feeds the other side where Todd drilled. Follow it behind the altinator and see that it goes around to the other side.

tmcolegr

Before I begin let me make you aware of one item worth mentioning that no one has noticed by looking at the attached pictures I posted earlier in this thread or has seen the installation in person. I mounted the factory oil pressure sender, tee and Autometer sender to my C&L CAI plastic heat shroud. The stainless steel braided hose connects the sender assemblies to the engine. If you'll notice closely in the picture you will see a thin hose clamp around the factory oil pressure sender. That hose clamp is attached to a small 16 gauge wire which is attached to chassis ground on the other end. Neither the stainless steel braided hose nor the aluminum fittings come directly in contact with any chassis ground. The factory sender must be grounded to work properly. However, the benefits of having the senders remote mounted where they are isolated from engine and chassis vibrations far outweigh this small issue. No one has yet even noticed. This remote mounting of the senders also eliminates having to work in that confined area down on the oil filter base. It also prevents all the weight of the senders, tees, etc. to be mounted off of the small 1/4" NPT nipple. Still want the materials list?

Simon forgive my ignorance but what are you referring to concerning the location of the water temp. sender?

Chris the total cost of the stainless steel braided hose, fittings, etc. was only about $75. I spent more time gathering all the correct fittings and making sure I still had room for the future Zex NMU than actually installing the hose, fittings and senders. I must warn you, -4 hose is a bear to work with.

Autometer Cobalt gauges, CDC gauge pod, and Zex fuel rail adapter was an additional $700.00.

05STG1

Sorry I forgot to take sending location pics for u

legend05

No prob Spiro.

Todd, yes i still want the parts list ;-)

As for what i was talkin about, the bleeder plug on the drivers side manifold
routes its way to the back of the altenator and through to where you drilled for your sending unit. Follow the red arrows..

So if thats the case, it really wouldn't make a difference in temp.

tmcolegr

Here's the parts list with Aeroquip Part Numbers:

(1) misc. length of -4 stainless steel braided hose (length depends on where you actually locate your senders)
(2) FCM2002 1/4" NPT x -4 flare fittings (1 threads into the oil filter base, 1 threads into the 1/4" NPT tee)
(1) FCM1011 -4 straight swivel hose end (attaches hose to 1/4" NPT tee)
(1) FCM1031 -4 90 degree swivel hose end (attaches to FCM2002 fitting @ oil filter base)
(1) FCM2151 1/4" NPT tee
(1) FCM2136 1/4" x 1/8" NPT bushing (Autometer sender for Cobalt series gauge is 1/8" NPT)

Misc. bolt, washers, nut and insulated tubing clamp for mounting of tee assembly

legend05

Thanx Todd!!!
Time to go shopping.

True_HP

Good job!!
One question you had never got answered...
Sensor in the Valley is the CHT (cylinder head temperature) sensor. It is used by the computer to calculate water temp.

tmcolegr

Brad no one ever answered that question. However I have looked over the entire engine (several times) and it is the only sensor that accesses a coolant passage.

One more item worth mentioning: as George stated in the beginning of this post the coolant returns to the radiator from the outlet where I have installed my coolant temp. sender. With the sending unit at that location, when the engine is fully up to operating temperature, the gauge reads about 195 degrees F. At that temperature on the Autometer gauge the factory temp. gauge is in the center of the normal range. I have measured that same location on 2 other 05 GTs (1 with a manual transmission and 1 with an automatic transmission) with a themal heat gun and the temperture reading is the same on all 3 vehicles - 195 degrees.

pittperson

Why are the colbalt gauges so much more expensive than the sport-comp gauges? Just because they are full sweep?

tmcolegr

I ask that question as well. Never really got a good answer.

legend05

Probably paying all that xtra cash for the fancy lighting lol

legend05

For those of you that want to do it the hard way
I took the bleeder plug out for the temp sending unit.
I ended up Teeing at the oil filter for the oil sending unit.
Beleive me when i say that it was a biatch to do. Looks simple but
I swore like a trucker.

Hey Todd, I'm achieving around 190 degrees and 65psi of oil pressure
at idle and up to 75 psi when driving. How does that sound.

Good luck guys

tmcolegr

That is exactly what I have seen and also checked 2 others as well: one with a manual and one with an automatic. Top temp. I have seen is 195.

MTAS

I can't give you an exact temp reading, but my gauge reads a hair over 190 once she's at operating temp. My OP reads about 60PSI on the interstate at about 2700RPM, and once it's up to operating temp, the PSI is between 25 and 30 at idle.

legend05

Thanx guys, that roughly what i've been getting BUT,
My water temp seems to rise to around a little over 210 at idle and takes some time to get down to 185 once i start driving.. Is that normal?

dustindu4

Has anybody else hooked up their oil pressure sending unit a different way?

dustindu4

Another question, do you just drill the hole for the water temp sending unit by leaving it in the car with a hand drill or do you take the part out and then drill it on a press?

tmcolegr

Left it in the vehicle and drilled and tapped very carefully.

dustindu4

The good thing is if you screw up the 1/8" is that you can open it to 1/4 and put a reducer on it.

dustindu4

Can somebody take some close up pics of where you tap in the block for the oil pressure? I'm alittle puzzled to where that goes. I have no idea where the stock sending unit is.