Guys:

It's time to replace my pads and rotors. They were OK for everyday driving, but after a year of normal driving and 3 track days on the road courses at PIR and Firebird, they're pretty much done.

I'm most likely going to be replacing with the "Stage 2" Stop Tech kit from Brenspeed...
(Hawk HPS Pads, StopTech Rotors, SS Lines, Motul Fluid)
EDIT: I'm also open to other recommendations, please provide links if you make a reco.

I have the Ford Service manual but it is a little unclear on these questions I have below.

HERE ARE MY QUESTIONS:

1. When disassebmbling the brake systems front/rear, are there any fasteners that are one-time use only and need to be replaced w/ new parts? If so, what are they, and where can I get them?
2. How do you successfully bleed the brakes w/ the ABS system? The Brenspeed kit comes w/ SS brake lines and I'll have to bleed after I install those. I don't want to have to do this 5 times to get the brakes bled properly. Is there a defined procedure for this, and do I need special tools?
3. Where can I get a good set of speed-bleeders for the stock calipers/lines?

I'd appreciate input from anyone with experience with installing rotors/pads/lines on this car.
I've done pads/rotors on my old 01 Impala (so I'm pretty familiar w/ most of this stuff), but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything critical that might be different.

Thanks!

 

I've never done anything special regarding bleeding with ABS. If you don't let your reservoir run dry you shouldn't need to bleed much more than the new lines and the calipers themselves anyway. I usually crimp off the rubber line, then disconnect it from the caliper. Install the new line on the caliper, then quickly disconnect the rubber line from the hard lines and connect the new stainless line to the hard line. Then bleed as you normally would - RR, LR, RF, LF. I did a quick GIS for S197 speed bleeders and came up short. I'm sure with a bit of time you could find them. Frankly, if you have someone willing to help you for about 5 minutes you're golden without them.

 

I'm planning on replacing the stock fluid with MOTUL fluid. Has anyone done a complete flush and re-fill + bleed?

 

From what a few TRW engineers told me, it is difficult to get air into the secondary valves of the ABS HCU. As long as the reservoir doesn't run dry, there shouldn't be any problems.

As for bleeding, I've heard lots of different methods (with a few people advising against using a MityVac on the ABS system). I use the MityVac for all my ABS-equipped Fords and have been doing so for the past 3-4 years (I do a complete flush/bleed every year). The 2-man pedal pump method WORKS, but takes too long to do a full flush on multiple vehicles. Then there's the gravity method which I don't like since the fluid is exposed to air and will absorb moisture, negating the whole point of bleeding and flushing the system.


As for brake fluid, I just use Prestone DOT 3. I've tried DOT 4 in the past and wasn't too impressed. I just buy a quality DOT 3 brake fluid in the largest jug possible. Usually I need 32 oz per vehicle. As long as the fluid is DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 (not 5), it will work in your stock hydraulic system.

 

1. Replace your caliper bleed screws with Speedbleeders ( www.speedbleeder.com ).
They are bleed screws with one-way valves in them. Makes bleeding your brakes a snap.

2. Use Valvoline Synpower DOT 3/4 brake fluid.
( http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51 )
Easy to obtain (most auto stores), approved for ABS systems, not expensive, mixes OK with other DOT 3/4 fluids, and has a fairly high boiling point (dry=503 deg / wet=343 deg).

3. When you are pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper (to install the new pads), crack open the caliper bleed screw so that you don't push old fliud back up into the ABS pump/valves. Also don't forget that the rear caliper pistons "screw" into the caliper - you need a special brake tool to push/screw those back up. Harbor Freight sells one that is fairly cheap.

Hugh

 

Just finished installing (actually, re-installing) my GT500 brembos yesterday after having them painted. We ran into some problems with slight leaks from each of the calipers where the banjo bolts conntect to the caliper (the calipers use the OEM lines and bolts). Went out and got new copper washers but the problem persisted so I looked up the torque spec to get a difinitive answer and apparently it's 70nm or 52lb.ft torque. You wouldn't think that a small bolt like that could carry that much pressure without snapping but apparently it does because that solved the problem. Other then the washers, I didn't need to get any new parts. Got the copper washers at a local automotive supply store, I bet the dealer can get them for you as well.

To bleed the system, we used a pressure bleeder to make the job easier - nothing special there - hook it up to the brake resevoir, ensure there's a proper seal, pump it up to approx 7-10psi (we started with 7 and needed a little extra) and start at the passenger side rear. As always, make sure you have some brake cleaner on hand to get rid of any brake fluid residue. We filled up the resevoir a bit before we got started - maybe 250ml or so - though with the amount that came out we didn't risk it running dry. With a complete flush, it's a different story. After one go around, we went back for a second pass just to be sure. Having someone pump the brakes, while more time consuming, works almost as well.

Hope that helps a bit.

Edit: I used ATE Brake Fluid, DOT4. So far so good, it's only been a day.

ps - check out my calipers, black was nice but the red looks amazing!

 

I use ATE in all of my BMWs. Replaced annually. When flushing, I simply lower the level in the reservoir as far as I can without exposing the ports, then refill it with fresh fluid. Then start making my way around the car bleeding each line until I see fresh fluid. I used to use Ford Racing brake fluid when I raced my Camaro.

 

Lol...stoopid Chevy can't even make their brake fluid with quality.

 

Where can I get one of these Pressure Bleeder systems?

Thanks for all the responses, guys!

 

The pressure bleeder we used was from my bf's shop, we just borrowed it for the weekend. It was metal and looked kind of like an old hibachi camping bbq.

I found some online - http://www.eurosportacc.com/brakebleeder.htm that would be more economical for the DIY'er - doesn't use an airline to fill up the pressure, instead you pump it up but it seems that it would be just as effective. Never used this kind tho...

That's a good idea RobK has, use a turkey baster to get as much fluid out of the resevoir as you can and then refill with fresh fluid before you bleed. Don't forget, you'll of course need a catch bottle to minimize the mess.


Good luck.

EDIT: forgot one thing. apparently we can't use the caps that go over the brake resevoir that screw on, since IIRC ours are like child proof caps and won't make a proper seal. my pressure bleeder came with an alternate connection that had a rubber disc with two hooks and wing nuts that you use to clamp it down. i hope that makes sense...perhaps email whichever company you want to purchase a bleeder from and ask them to be sure.

 

Man, I can't believe it took soooo long to get a comment! What can I say, the FR fluid was dirt cheap and had a really high boiling point. The Camaro was a pig at 3,550 wet. I ran ZR-1 front brakes which alleviated any problems, but I did do a lot of rebuilding of calipers and the like.

I would have gotten a stang if all of my cohorts didn't have them. I always have to be different! When I got out of the Camaro I switched up to a BMW 5 Series. I was able to get pretty close to the power in the Camaro at about 2,800 lbs. so it is quick! Naturally everyone followed me and now has BMWs. So, I'm doing a switcheroo to a stang! I'm still keeping BMW though and am in the process of building a custom twin turbo. It should be good for around 425 rwhp once it all said and done.

 

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I found the following specs for brake fluid - Thought it might come in handy for some of us:

(Brake Fluid DryBP WetBP Suggested List Price)

• AP SUPER 600 590°F 410°F $18.00/16.9oz.
• CASTROL SRF 590°F 518°F $69.99/33.8oz.
• NEO SUPER DOT 610 610°F 421°F $15.00/12oz.
• MOTUL RACING 600 593°F 420°F $15.00/16.9oz.
• MOTUL DOT 5.1 509°F 365°F $6.50/16.9oz.
• ATE SUPER BLUE 536°F 392°F $11.99/33.8oz.
• VALVOLINE SYNPOWER 503°F 343°F $4.97/16.9oz.
• ATE SL 500°F 329°F $7.95/16.9oz.
• CASTROL LMA 450°F 311°F $3.50/16.9oz.
• AP 551 528°F 288°F $12.50/16.9oz.
• Ford HD DOT3 550°F 290°F $3.50/16oz.
• Performance Friction 550°F 284°F $7.87/16oz.
• Brembo LCF 600 Plus 601°F 399°F $24.99/500ml.

 

Awesome info!

 

Thanks for all the responses, guys, lots of great info here!