Had another mod day at Cali HP's house. We installed the Spydershaft and really no hitches except the puller Ryan had wasn't the best suited for the job but we got the flange off. The instructions should include the torque setting for the flange bolts but we looked it up and it was all good.

We went for a test run and it was hard to tell weather or not I could really feel a difference but the car pulled hard and no NVH or strange nosies all way to 100 mph. I drove it home (65 miles) and it was smooth as butter and again no noises or NVH.


Also installed a Stef's oil seperator while I was there and Shatter put one his car too. Afew beers and some good times with acouple of my buddies.

 

Congrats Rich, sounds like a good time installing some good mods. Where did you pickup the separator?

 

Shatter ordered them directly from Stef's. He installed one too today. Cali HP ordered the hoses and fittings from Jegs and I picked up the brackets from a local speed shop. Kind of a group effort but Cali HP knew all of the right stuff to get because he already had put one on his car. Good mod IMO~

 

Yes I agree I think its a good mod to have- proven to be needed on most cars. Thanks Rich.

 

Rich, was your pinion angle off much! I see you have BMR LCA's are they adjustable? the oil separator is a good mod that is often over looked...

 

Never even checked the pinion angle. I have Roush rear springs and shocks (1" drop) and non-adjustable BMR lower control arms. I have been told that if you aren't lower than 1.5 inches there shouldn't be a problem. No rubbing on anything.

I did have to shim out the BMR front safety loop or it would have been up against the Pro5.0 shifter.

With all of the suspension mods that I have on my car I have no NVH. The only thing that gives me fits is the Hurst handle that I have mated to the Pro5.0 shifter. They just only like each other.

 

OK i saw this Stef's Oil Separator on another site and am curious.

Looking at it to me the oil it catches will sit in the bottom of the catch can. Then you have the line on the bottom going right back to the intake. Seems like it defeats the purpose????

Do you have any pictures of the internals on it. I just would like to see ow this actually works. Also how do you drain the oil?

Richard

 

Interesting on shimming the from loop due to the Pro 5.0. I don't believe mine is rubbing, although I do have some rattling in 4th through the shifter, but I could have sworn it was there before I installed the loop. I'm going to have to check that out. Thanks for the input...

 

It has a petcock on the bottom of the can that you use to remove the oil. There is a filtering system in the can that traps the oil in the bottom and doesn't allow it to go back into the system.

I saw Ryan's intake that he removed when he added the supercharger and orginial motor before he went with the stroker and let me tell you there was alot of oil in places where it shouldn't have been. Moroso makes a separator but I liked Ryan's Stef's can better. The can, fittings, bracket and hoses were about $175.00. It took about 45 minutes to fab everything up and install it. Chad was working on his and mine while Ryan and I were installing the D/S.

 

I used the 2 metal bushings that were attached to the brace that I removed to drop the driveshaft. You will have to get longer bolts though.

 

Ok, why is this can used? Where is this oil coming from?

 

There are numberous threads about this so I won't go into all the specifics and actually this is more of a driveshaft install thread. The oil is "blow by"

http://www.s197forum.com/forum/index.php
http://www.modularfords.com/forums

 

Just to explain a little more on how the can looks...(I'll try my ascii art skills here). I didn't spend more than 10 seconds looking in the can but this is more or less how it appeared to work.



So the oil laden gases enter and the oil is held in the filter element (shown as the X's) and then wicks down to the bottom where the drain valve resides. The clean air goes up and then down a central tube back to your engine. And you periodically open the drain valve and drain the trapped oil.

 

THANKS CHAD!


Here are acouple of pictures of the Spydershaft.

 

That side by side photo says it all.. Spiders on my list!

 

Ok that makes sense. Does the filter material/element need to be replaced? And if so how often?

Can one of you list the fittings and such that are needed for this?

Richard

 

It's here just waiting for ya

 

Great product Ron. I'm very happy with the outcome

 

This list is from another site posted by Mr. Clean. He used a Moroso can.

From Summit:
Moroso Air Oil Separator: MOR-84571 $97
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D85471&N=700 +400105+322224+115&autoview=sku
Moroso Mounting Bracket: MOR-63401 $7
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
S&H: $11

From Earl's:
Earl's Part #9892120 AN-12 Female to AN-10 Male reducer (2x$15.35)
Earl's Part #700111 AN-10 to 5/8" straight push lock hose end ($5.88)
Earl's Part #712011 AN-10 to 5/8" 120ยบ push lock hose end ($25.78) OUCH!
S&H $6
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/

AutoZone: 4' of 5/8" PCV Hose: $9

$193...I shoulda listened to CALIHP originally...now I got the Steeda just sitting there...any takers at $40 plus shipping?

EDIT NOTE: Once you put the pushlock fitting on the hose...it ain't coming off!
__________________

 

I called Stef's Fabrication and talked to one of their tech guys and asked about synthetic vs. dinosaur oil and the element and so forth and they said no issues and if you ever needed a replacement filter element you could get it from them but nobody has ever asked for a replacement. I didn't specifically ask if it should be replaced at a specific interval but I got the impression that it is basically a lifetime filter.

Graypny and I used JEGS brand fittings to save some cash over Earls. We used two 1/2" NPT to -10AN adapters, a straight -10AN to pushlock adapter and a 90 degree -10AN to pushlock adapter. You could use a 120 degree one and probably be better off (note: doesn't look like there is a Jegs one in black)

Fittings you will need are (this assumes the can has 1/2" NPT female ports!):

Two of 1/2 NPT to -10AN = $6 each at http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_129898_-1
-10AN to Push-Loc = $7 at http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_646596_-1
90 degree -10AN to Push-Loc = $15.50 at http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_646604_-1
5 ft of -10AN Push-Loc hose = $17 at http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_646512_-1

You'll also need two small hose clamps and some mounting bolts and lock nuts for mounting the can to the vehicle (we used the CAI shield for this). We used a couple body washers to help support the can as I have a plastic shield and didn't want it to crack.