For all those with a Pypes O/R H-pipe...Check this out.
#24
It's best to coat the pipe lip with antiseize so it slides in easy
#26
Wait a min... I have my H-Pipe welded to the over axel pipe... and everytime I turn off the car, I hear something like a leak/rattling noise from the muffler... when I kick the passenger side muffler, it stops for a very short while and continues again... Is that what you guys are talking about? If so what flanges are you talking about welding?
#27
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Join Date: May 12, 2004
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ADudeInNewJersey, it may not be what you are talking about. Maybe just your muffler is loose and needs to be tightened.
The flange we are talking about looks like this:
Its at the ends of the h-pipe that connects to the manifolds. What we are talking about doing is welding this piece onto the h-pipe itself.
The flange we are talking about looks like this:
Its at the ends of the h-pipe that connects to the manifolds. What we are talking about doing is welding this piece onto the h-pipe itself.
#30
#31
You know, I've wondered why after the car has warmed up, the exhaust sounds like it might have a slight leak. I've tightened everything that could be tightened and I didn't think there would be one, but it sounds like it after I've driven it for a while. I'm taking it by to have the flanges welded like the people mentioned before, just to be on the safe side.
#33
I just got back from my exhaust shop and they totally got me fixed up. They brought the flanges on the H pipe back about 3/4" and tack welded them there, that way, when the pipe is tightened down, it pulls tight. They also found some bad leaks back at the axle back on both sides. Evidently, when I put them on, on one side I slid the pipe up over that nipple so when I tightened it down, there was a gap. The other side was fine and tight, but leaked like crazy as well. They fixed them all up and now it sounds a heck of a lot better with no leaks at all, and I swear it's running better as well.
Not bad for a total of $20!
Agleon, if you think you might have a leak at where it meets the manifolds, I would have them move the flange back on the pipe just a little bit and then put a tack weld there to keep it in place, that way, when you tighten it back up, it won't bottom out on the shoulder of the bolt. Or, you could replace the studs with shoulderless one's, it was just easier for me to to it the way I did.
Not bad for a total of $20!
Agleon, if you think you might have a leak at where it meets the manifolds, I would have them move the flange back on the pipe just a little bit and then put a tack weld there to keep it in place, that way, when you tighten it back up, it won't bottom out on the shoulder of the bolt. Or, you could replace the studs with shoulderless one's, it was just easier for me to to it the way I did.
#35
Sorry, I don't, that's why I did it the way I did it. I didn't have a way to take the bolt off and then drive down to get another one. I guess you might be able to take it off and just drive it, but I didn't really want to.
#38
Legacy TMS Member
Nice, thanks!!
Looks like the part # covers 2 kits. We dont need the spring kit I assume
BK 6001819
Exhaust Manifold Stud & Nut Kit stock 1.00 list 7.39 cost 6.99
BK 6001819
Exhaust Flange Spring & Bolt Kit stock 1.00 list 7.39 cost 6.99
Looks like the part # covers 2 kits. We dont need the spring kit I assume
BK 6001819
Exhaust Manifold Stud & Nut Kit stock 1.00 list 7.39 cost 6.99
BK 6001819
Exhaust Flange Spring & Bolt Kit stock 1.00 list 7.39 cost 6.99
#40
I welded my flanges this weekend, no more rattling. I backed the nuts off half an inch so the flange could drop down. Then I spot welded the flange to the pipe on both sides. Then I took the pipe out and put a 1 inch weld on each side of the flange. I put it in and tightened it back up and no more rattling, yay!
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