Does anyone know the factory alignment specs for camber and toe?

Any recommendations for alternate specs on a lowered car (1"Drop)?

Thanks,

 

Factory Alignment Specifications
Front caster left & right 7.1° ± 0.50°
Total/split 0° ± 0.70°

Front camber left & right -0.75° ± 0.50°
Total/split 0° ± 0.70°

Front toe
Total/split 0.10 ± 0.20°

Factory General Specifications
Front ride height 38 mm ± 8 mm (1.5 in ± 0.3 in)

Rear ride height 115 mm ± 8 mm (4.5 in ± 0.3 in)

Vehicle lean (side to side difference)
Front & rear-maximum 13 mm (0.5 in)

Dogtracking
Maximum 13 mm (0.5 in)
Clear vision (negative value is counterclockwise) 0° ± 3°

Ball joint end play
Lower ball joint-maximum 0.8 mm (1/32 in)

 

If you are going for performance adjustment, go for zero split side to side (i.e. right camber same as left camber, ditto caster, toe, etc.).

Sit in the car during adjustment or have near the same wt in the front seat.

 

So if I read correctly the factory toe setting is + or .10 Toe-in?
I am going for more performance and read the toe should be revised setting to .16 Toe out -- Does this sound right?

Also if I the have setting for camber set closer to -1 will this cause abnormal tire wear?

Finally, my steeering wheel is slightly offset to the right and I want to correct it -- is this accomplished by adjusting the toe as well?

Thanks for your help.

 

I run my street alignment as close to zero toe as possible and -1 camber and have no abnormal tire wear after 20K miles.

 

For street or track I would not recommend zero or toe out. You need a little toe in for stability. If you are doing autocross a little toe out will make the car turn in quicker, however straight line will be a little twitchy.

-1 deg camber will provide for more bite in a corner and reduce understeer, but over the life of the tire, wear will be increased on the inside, unless you do all your turns like you are on the track, then it might even things out. For street performance I'd stick with about -1/2 to -3/4 both sides.

Getting the steering wheel straight involves adjusting the rack. This is easy to do on your own. If the steering wheel is off to the left, you have to lengthen the left steering tie rod and shorten the right ... by the exact same amount ... else you mess up the toe adjustment (unless it already is). if the steering wheel is off to the right, do the opposite. I would take it easy at first, try a half turn on each side.

 

Thanks, Guys.

That's great info and just the clarification I was looking for

 

Be aware that other than toe there are no standard adjustments that can be made to the front suspension. There are no camber/caster adjusters as the car comes from the factory.

If adjustments are required to bring the car back to within spec you will have to do the required modifications and install the proper adjusters.

 

Quite right, and that goes for getting the adjustments to a preferred spec as well.

 

Can someone explain this further? Does it mean that the only thing that can be adjusted during an alignment is the toe? Camber cannot be adjusted? I know this is an old thread, but I'm having some handling issues after a recent alignment and I'd like to know as much as i can about what they could have messed with.

 

You are correct, from factory, the only adjustment is front toe.

 

That's just crazy....why wouldn't they offer that adjustment ?

What plates are recomended that will allow for this adjustment ?

 

There's really no reason for the mfgr TO offer an adjustment point. The angles are fixed by the location of the strut mount up top, and the two lower control arm mount points on the K-member. That right there defines the camber and caster angles... For a street car, driven by "normal" human beings, there is no need to alter the angles, and there is no component wear that would cause the angles to drift, so why add another component, with additional expense?

Since none of us are "normal," we thankfully have pushers, er, aftermarket vendors that carry what we need. Camber is simple: Camber bolts, or camber plates from BMR, CHE, Steeda, Roush, et. al. The only CASTER adjustment setup that I know of is from Maximum Motorsports, and is NOT cheap, on the order of $338 for their caster/camber plate.

 

Not really a need to, unless you make a habit of trying to drive like the Duke boys (and bending your car up)

Strut suspensions are incredibly tough compared to thier SLA counterparts (mainly due to thier simplicity).

I've owned 3 Mustangs in 14 years and I've had to get ZERO alignments (although I'm gonna get the 07 checked and setup since I installed the FR3 handling pak).

On the otherhand, SLA suspensions by dent of thier complexity compared to a strut require the adjustability to help maintain alignment over the life of the car since SLA suspensions are more susceptable to being knocked out of alignment. SLA/IRS great for handling and ride, but the trade off is more intensive maintence. Mac/SRA tough as nails, but gives up something in handling and ride quality.

 

I have a 2014 CS/GT that I just installed a Ford Racing Handeling package.
Shocks , springs , struts , sway bars etc.
Ride height 1 inch lower.
Below are current specs after install.



Can anyone tell me what the alignment specs should be for my daily driver?
Thx

 

I'm pretty sure they are shown on the printout that you attached.

Everything is in spec, except the CASTER, which is just a hair out of spec due to the lowering, and cannot be adjusted anyway.

 

You are reading the print out wrong. The caster is out of spec not the camber. Camber is not adjustable on these cars without aftermarket camber bolts or camber plates. I would have installed camber plates with the rest of the suspension parts to allow adjustment. It is not bad as it is, but I prefer to set the right and left closer to the same.

 

thanks, fixed it