GT Performance Mods 2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information

? about wheel screws

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Old 4/15/05, 09:28 PM
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I found out that my M/T ET streets are slipping on the wheels. They move about an inch in a single 1/4 mile run. I've purchased some wheel screws to cure it. My question is...do I install the screws only on the outside or face of the wheel or do I install the screws on both inner and outer sides of the wheel? The box of screws contains 35 screws. It says to install 8 evenly spaced on the wheel.
Thanks,
David


EDIT: I found my answer. I'm in the habit of getting all the answers on this wonderful site! I googled it and the screws are necessary on both sides of the wheel....which makes sense.
Thanks
Old 4/16/05, 08:44 AM
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Tubes are not necessary. If they are only moving 1", it's not a big deal. But if you are going to do it, then you need to put screws on both sides. If it is a 15" rim, take a 3" 3/8 extension and lay it on the lip. That's the distance you need between the screws. Mark all the holes, center punch them, then dril a hole with a 1/4" bit (I think it's a 1/4"... check to make sure) Then use screws from Moroso.. You have to use grade 8. Using that 3/8 extension lying it on the lip to mark the holes works perfect for a 15" wheel.

Mike


Originally posted by Blazing Saddles@April 15, 2005, 11:02 PM
If you use the screws you'll need to use tubes in them. I've seen people swap the wheel tire combo from side to side so that the tire rotates back to the original position. After a while the tires will seat themselves on the rims and stop moving. There is no need to use the screws. The additional weight of the tubes and screws will also hurt your E.T. by about a tenth.
Old 4/16/05, 09:36 AM
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Originally posted by 169stang@April 15, 2005, 9:31 PM
I found out that my M/T ET streets are slipping on the wheels. They move about an inch in a single 1/4 mile run. I've purchased some wheel screws to cure it. My question is...do I install the screws only on the outside or face of the wheel or do I install the screws on both inner and outer sides of the wheel? The box of screws contains 35 screws. It says to install 8 evenly spaced on the wheel.
Thanks,
David


EDIT: I found my answer. I'm in the habit of getting all the answers on this wonderful site! I googled it and the screws are necessary on both sides of the wheel....which makes sense.
Thanks
Screws on both sides, tubes not needed and put a little grease or silcone around each screw as you install.
Old 4/16/05, 12:03 PM
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Your tires are spinning on the rim because who ever installed them on the rim used a soap or lubricant for easy install.Mount slicks or drag radials dry.Its a little bit harder(not much).If your running slicks,then the tubes are necessary to just to keep air in them.And you dont loose anything with the tubes.You do get consistant tire pressure and you wont be going flat in the staging lanes.Bean there Done That.
Old 4/16/05, 12:54 PM
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I don't think that the tire slipping on the rim 1" will hurt you very much if at all. The screws are for cars that are spinning the rim inside the tire, not just moving a little, unless you are spinning the wheel a "revolution or two and an inch"
Either way, the tire won't move now!!!
I've never used screws or tubes and "so far" have not had any problems.
Old 4/16/05, 01:17 PM
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Originally posted by 2005MustangGT@April 16, 2005, 12:57 PM
I don't think that the tire slipping on the rim 1" will hurt you very much if at all. The screws are for cars that are spinning the rim inside the tire, not just moving a little, unless you are spinning the wheel a "revolution or two and an inch"
Either way, the tire won't move now!!!
I've never used screws or tubes and "so far" have not had any problems.
I agree.............Plus its not a good feeling drilling all these holes in your pricey nice shiny rims.
Old 4/16/05, 01:46 PM
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:scratch: very true about the holes in the wheel :scratch:
Old 4/16/05, 10:36 PM
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Well, Every single run, the tires were spinning about 1-1 1/2". Once I got home and took the wheels and tires off, I saw the belts on one tire. I went ahead and ordered some new ones, which I picked up and had mounted today. These tires do not require tubes. I went ahead and drilled holes last night. It was very easy. Pretty much like Mr. Freedman stated, but with a ruler. I found a happy measurement and center punched my locations. I drilled 13/64 holes around and tapped them with the Moroso screws, both sides of the rim. Today, I had the tires mounted then I set the screws, then had them balanced. I had the first set mounted at a race shop, so I'm pretty sure he knew how to mount slicks. I don't recall seeing him use any lube to mount the tires. They're spinning because I'm running 14-16 psi in them. Great for 60', scary at the other end of the track.
I changed from the ET Streets to ET Street Radials. Some are saying that they are hooking better. I did cut some better 60's tonight, but it was unusually cold. I'll wait until the weather is normal and I can compare. I also botched up the bearings in the rear end. I'll be getting them replaced Tuesday. I'll have them change out the 4.10's for some 4.30's. I'm consistantly running 12.9's. I'm guessing the 4.30's will get me consistant 12.8's.
Michael Freedman, do you have 15" wheels on yours. If so, can you shed light on the rear setup?
Thanks to all!
Old 4/17/05, 02:12 PM
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Originally posted by 169stang@April 16, 2005, 10:39 PM
Well, Every single run, the tires were spinning about 1-1 1/2". Once I got home and took the wheels and tires off, I saw the belts on one tire. I went ahead and ordered some new ones, which I picked up and had mounted today. These tires do not require tubes. I went ahead and drilled holes last night. It was very easy. Pretty much like Mr. Freedman stated, but with a ruler. I found a happy measurement and center punched my locations. I drilled 13/64 holes around and tapped them with the Moroso screws, both sides of the rim. Today, I had the tires mounted then I set the screws, then had them balanced. I had the first set mounted at a race shop, so I'm pretty sure he knew how to mount slicks. I don't recall seeing him use any lube to mount the tires. They're spinning because I'm running 14-16 psi in them. Great for 60', scary at the other end of the track.
I changed from the ET Streets to ET Street Radials. Some are saying that they are hooking better. I did cut some better 60's tonight, but it was unusually cold. I'll wait until the weather is normal and I can compare. I also botched up the bearings in the rear end. I'll be getting them replaced Tuesday. I'll have them change out the 4.10's for some 4.30's. I'm consistantly running 12.9's. I'm guessing the 4.30's will get me consistant 12.8's.
Michael Freedman, do you have 15" wheels on yours. If so, can you shed light on the rear setup?
Thanks to all!
If you really are going to step it up look at 15" rims and bead lock. Now that is trick.
Old 4/17/05, 02:14 PM
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Originally posted by 169stang@April 16, 2005, 10:39 PM
Well, Every single run, the tires were spinning about 1-1 1/2". Once I got home and took the wheels and tires off, I saw the belts on one tire. I went ahead and ordered some new ones, which I picked up and had mounted today. These tires do not require tubes. I went ahead and drilled holes last night. It was very easy. Pretty much like Mr. Freedman stated, but with a ruler. I found a happy measurement and center punched my locations. I drilled 13/64 holes around and tapped them with the Moroso screws, both sides of the rim. Today, I had the tires mounted then I set the screws, then had them balanced. I had the first set mounted at a race shop, so I'm pretty sure he knew how to mount slicks. I don't recall seeing him use any lube to mount the tires. They're spinning because I'm running 14-16 psi in them. Great for 60', scary at the other end of the track.
I changed from the ET Streets to ET Street Radials. Some are saying that they are hooking better. I did cut some better 60's tonight, but it was unusually cold. I'll wait until the weather is normal and I can compare. I also botched up the bearings in the rear end. I'll be getting them replaced Tuesday. I'll have them change out the 4.10's for some 4.30's. I'm consistantly running 12.9's. I'm guessing the 4.30's will get me consistant 12.8's.
Michael Freedman, do you have 15" wheels on yours. If so, can you shed light on the rear setup?

Thanks to all!
David, sorry to hear about the rear-end... :bang: What type of gear's were you running?? Is there a brand that is looking more stout than another? (i.e. Motive?)
Well, now I learned to pick up some scew's when I get my slick's....I at least learn one thing here every single day, I love it! BTW, I finally got back out to the track and turned a 13.3 with a 1.98 60'... alot better than my first trip out a while back at 13.9 with a 2.20 60'.... Thank's for all the detailed report's!
Old 4/17/05, 07:46 PM
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Excellant on the times Jay. Seat time will get her into the 12's. I had FR gears in there. The guy that does that kind of work for me thinks Steeda installed them a little too loose. I really don't know yet and neither does he. It's all speculative until he tears into the rear end. I wonder if Motive gears will hold up better. I didn't even think about that. I will be calling him in the morning to run it by him. I think going with the ET street radials is what caused the damaged. They hook Great, better than the non radial-biased. I've been entertaining the 15" rearend. I guess nows the time. I think the bearings are in bad shape back there too. The only problem with the 15" rearend is the loss of breaking.
Old 4/19/05, 10:44 AM
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What problems with the rear end are you having noise or what?
Old 4/19/05, 11:02 AM
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I busted the diff. The casing actually stretched. Didn't take the spider gears out to see if it was cracked though. The main spider gears pin rotated a few times. It's grooved now and was loose in it's hole. It looked as if it was about to sheer off. The locking pin was bent as well. The teeth on the spider gears were very worn as well. I have to load the pics then I'll post them of the pin and such.
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