I think I'll go against the trend in this thread and suggest that you do go the NA route. Not because I'm a mechanic, just because I'd like to see it done.

However, I think your goal of 600HP is really pushing it for no boost....you would need to be at 7-8 litres of displacement in order to get anywhere near that....something you aren't going to get in a modern ford engine. (You could go with a crate motor and try to stuff a 512 engine in there, but even then you may not hit 600hp and you would have to completely change the electronics of the car, something that may not be remotely practical....plus you'd be looking at HUGE money.


However, reaching 450-500HP Naturally aspriated may be possible....and would make for quite a unique setup. You could go with a bored and stroked 4.6, giving you 322 cu in or 5.2L. I know SeanHyland has a bored and stroked shortblock for $6000 exchange. Mate that with a GT500 or Viper transmission, as well as all the performance mods (heads, cams, headers, etc), you'd problably be close to 500HP at the flywheel.

My guess would be 10K in parts when your done. At that point, you'd problably have to put a supercharger to get anything more....but I'd bet that you could safely go to 700-800hp with that set up.

Personally, I'd love to see it done, as I would like to stay away from a supercharger and go with a fully naturally aspirated route.

 

One thing, the T56 in Vipers is at the back. Also, 500hp from 5.2l is over 96hp/liter, that's hard for even the Honda guys. You'd be really pushing it for street driving.

Personally I'd go with the bored and stroked block idea, fully-worked heads, Comp Stage III cams, forged bottom end, etc... pretty much like what the few non-blower people said, and THEN stick a Whipple (or equivalent) on THAT and THEN get it plumbed for NITROUS.

What do you think?

 

I am just wondering why you didn't go with a C6 Z06 etc. But, I would like to see how things go for you....

 

If you looking for anything near 600 hp while staying N/A, you might as well drop in a 460 or 514c.i. big block crate engine from ford racing, if its even physically possible. I just dont see a modular small block v8 getting that much power without nitrous or F.I.

 

I'm with you on the fact that I'd love to see it done through a 4.6L. Though, it aint happening. At most and I mean at most I think that right at or under 400RWHP MAY BE OBTAINABLE. 10K in parts, Whooo don't forget all the other parts that I mentioned in my post earlier. If you go the route I suggested, there would be a possibility of obtaining some nice numbers N/A. The thing is that right now there isn't a badass cam for these cars yet. I honestly see 375 RWHP easily obtainable N/A. Hell, JDM put down 360RWHP through their AUTO 298 Stroker (Which is truly the safest point you want to stroke this 4.6L). I say the hell with it, and if you have the money for it go all out and see what you can come up with.....Just remember that a N/A engine with that much power is not going to be all that streetable in the end....but like I said the 4.6L isn't going to be seeing anything over 400RWHP N/A....

 

It can't and won't make that kind of power...

 

Ok say this guy likes his mustang and doesn't want a Vette or anything else. Yeah he could go blower, but seems like this guy wants to stay N/A. I don't think any of the major engine builders have built a mod motor to handle 600+rwhp. He could do what project Heretic is doing and throw an LS7 in it. I know that's blasphimus, but hey it'd reach his goal.

OR he could do like I've done. I'm running 523rwhp on a daily driven car. I still have two smaller pulleys and more things that I could do to the car to get it over 600rwhp. Oh and I guarantee I've done it cheaper than what it'd cost him to build his N/A motor. Just a few thoughts.

 

Didn't know that JDM hit 360 in an auto with a stroker. So, 400rwhp is problably the limit if you also bore the engine. But, as I mentioned, if you started with that base and at a later date added a supercharger, you could problably run over 15lbs of boost and get over 600 to the wheels.

 

Internal's will never take the load. JMHO

 

I felt your pain right off the lot. It wasn't even enough to satisfy me over my Scion TC. I put it in the shop the next day to get it up to speed. You can get that car up to 625hp under 10K easily. Put a twin for each four cylinders, an intercooler, and all the bells that are needed for the turbos.

 

Keep dreaming. It's not possible. End thread.

 

+1. exactly!!

 

They aren't "all that" at the track... at least not the one that watched my car just run away from him.



I have a lot of those things (I'm not a fan of stroking a mod motor, and my cams are still stock) and a few others.


LIST OF MODS

ENGINE

Kenne Bell 2.4L Supercharger
Kenne Bell 8-Rib Pulley Set-up with 3� Upper Pulley, 12psi
Ford Teksid Aluminum Block, bored 0.020" over
Ford Cobra 8-Bolt Forged Crank
Scat 4340 H-Beam Forged Rods, w/ARP 2000 Bolts
JE Custom Forged Coated Pistons
ARP Head Studs
Autolite HT0 Spark Plugs
Moroso Aluminum 7-Qt Oil Pan
Ford Triton V-10 Flexplate
Meziere Electric Water Pump
Custom Intercooler Chiller Box (in process)
DiabloSport MAFia
Powdercoated Cam Covers
Optima Yellow Top Battery

HEADS

Livernois Stage 3 Ported & Polished
Livernois Performance Valve Springs
Manley Inconel Valves, +1mm

TRANSMISSION

5R55S Street/Strip Rebuild, with 3000rpm Torque Converter

FUEL SYSTEM

39# Fuel Injectors
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump

EXHAUST

Dynatech SS Long Tube Headers, 1-3/4� w/Jet-Hot Coating
Dynatech X-Pipe
Exhaust Cutouts, with Electric Valves
Magnaflow Axle-Back Mufflers

REAR END

FRPP 4.10 Gears, 8.8�
Detroit TrueTrac Differential
Powerhouse Aluminum Driveshaft
BMR Driveshaft Loop
Moser 31-spline Axles, 3� Studs
Moser Rear End Girdle

SUSPENSION

BMR Tubular K-member
BMR Radiator Support/Sway Bar Delete
BMR Adjustable Lower Control Arms
BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod
BMR Panhard Relocation Bracket
BMR Adjustable Upper Control Arm
Spohn Rear UCA Housing Bushing Kit
Strange Adjustable Rear Shocks

BRAKES

Dual Line Lock Solenoids
PowerSlot Front Rotors
Hawk HPS Brake Pads, Front & Rear

TIRES/WHEELS

Street:
17 x 9 Chrome Bullitt Wheels
Nitto 450 255/50-17, Front
M&H RaceMaster Drag Radials, 325/45-17, Rear

Track:
Weld Draglite XP, 15x9, 5.5bs
Mickey Thompson ET Drag slicks, 28x10.50-15
Weld Draglite, 15x3.5 - 1.75bs
Mickey Thompson ET Front Tires, 26x4.50-15

EXTERIOR

CDC Shaker Scoop (modified)
CDC Classic Chin Spoiler
Chase Taillights
Clear Corner Lenses and Stealth Bulbs
Window Tint, 5%
Redline Hood Struts

INTERIOR

6-Point Chromoly Roll Bar, w/ Dual Swingouts (in process)
Autometer Nexus Controller Module
Autometer Nexus Boost/Vac Gauge
Autometer Nexus Water Temp Gauge
Autometer Nexus Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
SOS 2-Gauge Pillar Pod
Custom Center Vent Panel Gauge Pod
Fan, Line Lock & Cutout Switches
Dash Kit

 

And when you get that roll cage put in you better up the boost on that thing and see what it's capable of!!!

 

Thats why you have one of my favorite Stangs on here! Also why are you not a fan of stroking Mod motors?

 

Factory tune C6 Z06's with DR's can go deep into the 11's. They're also pretty amazing around a road course. I think it still holds the 2nd fastest lap around the ring for a production car.

 

I'm not going to up the boost until I do something else with the fuel system. I don't want to go past 12psi with just the stock pump and a BAP. And that upgrade is in line sometime after replacing the torque converter, so it will have to wait.

Also, I want to get into the 6's (in the 1/8) with just 12psi... which would be equivalent to a 10-sec run in the 1/4. It's become kind of a personal goal to have a dependable 10-sec daily driver. Hopefully we'll see a 6.xx in the next few weeks... the cage is supposed to be done tomorrow.



Thanks!

As far as stroking goes, I'm one of those who thinks that a stroker will pull the piston too far out of the cylinder bore, which can result in piston slap and/or scuffing. For an all out race motor, which will get rebuilt frequently, it's not a big deal. But for a daily driver like mine, I would prefer to play it conservatively. Potentially rebuilding the engine every 25K miles or so is not something I care to risk. Just my opinion...

 

Well I don't really care about road courses, but I would welcome the chance to line up at the dragstrip against one with DRs and a good driver. That would be fun!!

 

Gottcha, I was just curious because I know a guy who stroked his 04 Mach 1 and regardless of whether its safe or no - its verrry quick for a N/A 4v...Low 12s in the 1/4

 

if he went with the zOwhat ever it wouldn't be a mustang and that reason enough for me