4.10 gears went in today - issues
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4.10 gears went in today - issues
So a few months ago I purchased two sets of FRPP 8.8 4.10 gear sets. I installed the first set into my Ranger with zero problems. Tooth contact pattern and backlash were perfect on the first attempt and the gears run perfectly quiet.
Today we installed the other set of FRPP 4.10 gears into my '05 Mustang GT. This instalation did NOT go so well. Had to do it 3 times before we could get the backlash right. We had to use a .0035" shim to get the backlash right which seem really odd as the stock 3.55 gears had a shim of approx. 0.027" and the smallest shim included in the kit was 0.010".
So after all this the gears whine on coast. They are quiet on acceleration and quiet on deceleration but driving a steady speed with light load they whine. I also have a vibration that starts around 62 mph and gets worse the faster you go. I had no vibration at all before the gear change.
Due to the fact that we had to use such an unusually thin shim I am wondering if anyone thinks I just got a bad set of gears?
Any opinions are welcome. Thanks!!
Today we installed the other set of FRPP 4.10 gears into my '05 Mustang GT. This instalation did NOT go so well. Had to do it 3 times before we could get the backlash right. We had to use a .0035" shim to get the backlash right which seem really odd as the stock 3.55 gears had a shim of approx. 0.027" and the smallest shim included in the kit was 0.010".
So after all this the gears whine on coast. They are quiet on acceleration and quiet on deceleration but driving a steady speed with light load they whine. I also have a vibration that starts around 62 mph and gets worse the faster you go. I had no vibration at all before the gear change.
Due to the fact that we had to use such an unusually thin shim I am wondering if anyone thinks I just got a bad set of gears?
Any opinions are welcome. Thanks!!
#2
Not to sound like an a$$hole, but you've done this before right? Installing gears can be alot harder than most people think. Did you paint the teeth with gear marking compound or did you just do it by eye?
#3
He said he did his Ranger, so he's done it before. He also said the pattern was fine on the Ranger, so I'm sure he used the compound on his stang.
281, I have the same issue right now with a set of OEM 3.73's (vibration at higher MPH). I do not believe it's defective gears. For some reason the gears in these cars tend to walk due to pinion movement...what's causing the pinion to move, I do not know. I'd be willing to bet that if you removed your cover you will find teeth marks on your carrier from the gear walk. Mine have it, but my mechanic thought it was no big deal and reinstalled everything (checking backlash only) but the problem didn't go away.
Before I spend more $ on a new gear, I'm trying to find out what the cause is. Please keep us abreast of your situation. I'll check back if I find anything.
281, I have the same issue right now with a set of OEM 3.73's (vibration at higher MPH). I do not believe it's defective gears. For some reason the gears in these cars tend to walk due to pinion movement...what's causing the pinion to move, I do not know. I'd be willing to bet that if you removed your cover you will find teeth marks on your carrier from the gear walk. Mine have it, but my mechanic thought it was no big deal and reinstalled everything (checking backlash only) but the problem didn't go away.
Before I spend more $ on a new gear, I'm trying to find out what the cause is. Please keep us abreast of your situation. I'll check back if I find anything.
#4
Here's a post that explains a little of it:
I've been told by the FRPP reps that the production cars use a special lapping process on the gears to help with noise and harmonics. I just wonder if thats done on the drive and coast sides of the teeth or just the drive side.
That would explain why theres no problem when loaded and only happens when coasting.
when I install gears I always check both patterns(drive and coast) to make sure they both fall within the acceptable range along with pinion preload/depth and backlash checks at different ring gear positions. I found that on my car the backlash would change as the ring gear was rotated. It did this with 3 sets of gears and there was no runout so I know the ring gear was seated on the carrier properly so it must be the position of the ring gear on the carrier which would mean a machining error from Fomoco.
found this and thought it was neat and it explains it in a really simple way.
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
That would explain why theres no problem when loaded and only happens when coasting.
when I install gears I always check both patterns(drive and coast) to make sure they both fall within the acceptable range along with pinion preload/depth and backlash checks at different ring gear positions. I found that on my car the backlash would change as the ring gear was rotated. It did this with 3 sets of gears and there was no runout so I know the ring gear was seated on the carrier properly so it must be the position of the ring gear on the carrier which would mean a machining error from Fomoco.
found this and thought it was neat and it explains it in a really simple way.
http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html
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I've done quite a few set of gears in Chevy 12 bolt diffs and a Ford 9" in addition to my Ranger. This is the first one that I've had gear whine with. I did use gear marking compound and the pattern looked ok. What I've decided to do is to try and get an assortment of shims for the sides of the carrier, move the pinion back to where it was and try and get things lined up by adjusting the carrier from side to side.
I'll post here the results.
RUgoinUp. thanks for that info. I guess if this next process doesn't clear up the noise I have a bad set of gears.
In the mean time I'm not driving the car until this is sorted out.
I'll post here the results.
RUgoinUp. thanks for that info. I guess if this next process doesn't clear up the noise I have a bad set of gears.
In the mean time I'm not driving the car until this is sorted out.
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Well between my crazy schedule and my friend's equally crazy schedule we finally got around to completing my 4.10 gear installation. What I stated earlier did turn out to be the final solution. We moved the pinion back to where it was when we started by using the original 0.027" shim and then moved the ring gear away from the pinion. First we moved the ring gear 0.015" away but that proved to be too loose. We had almost 0.020" backlash with that change so we moved the ring gear closer by 0.007". That did the trick. This setup produced 0.010" backlash and a tooth contact pattern that looked perfect on both sides.
Took it for a drive and no noise under any conditions. Had her up to 200 kph, no noise whatsoever under cruise, coast or acceleration. The 4.10's are just as quiet as the original 3.55's were.
So this Friday it's off to the track to test!
Took it for a drive and no noise under any conditions. Had her up to 200 kph, no noise whatsoever under cruise, coast or acceleration. The 4.10's are just as quiet as the original 3.55's were.
So this Friday it's off to the track to test!
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Well between my crazy schedule and my friend's equally crazy schedule we finally got around to completing my 4.10 gear installation. What I stated earlier did turn out to be the final solution. We moved the pinion back to where it was when we started by using the original 0.027" shim and then moved the ring gear away from the pinion. First we moved the ring gear 0.015" away but that proved to be too loose. We had almost 0.020" backlash with that change so we moved the ring gear closer by 0.007". That did the trick. This setup produced 0.010" backlash and a tooth contact pattern that looked perfect on both sides.
Took it for a drive and no noise under any conditions. Had her up to 200 kph, no noise whatsoever under cruise, coast or acceleration. The 4.10's are just as quiet as the original 3.55's were.
So this Friday it's off to the track to test!
Took it for a drive and no noise under any conditions. Had her up to 200 kph, no noise whatsoever under cruise, coast or acceleration. The 4.10's are just as quiet as the original 3.55's were.
So this Friday it's off to the track to test!
I bet the air is good up there this time of year. Please post your results!!
Scott
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Yeah it's getting cool for sure and the air is great! Only problem is that our track is at 2200'
Stock S197 GT's run between 14.50 and 15.00 here.
My best run with the 3.55's was 13.75 @ 103.05 mph.
I think I'm gonna have a pretty bad traction problem but I'm hoping to gain a couple more tenths. Next on the list is a set of sticky tires and a line lock.
Stock S197 GT's run between 14.50 and 15.00 here.
My best run with the 3.55's was 13.75 @ 103.05 mph.
I think I'm gonna have a pretty bad traction problem but I'm hoping to gain a couple more tenths. Next on the list is a set of sticky tires and a line lock.
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Yeah it's getting cool for sure and the air is great! Only problem is that our track is at 2200'
Stock S197 GT's run between 14.50 and 15.00 here.
My best run with the 3.55's was 13.75 @ 103.05 mph.
I think I'm gonna have a pretty bad traction problem but I'm hoping to gain a couple more tenths. Next on the list is a set of sticky tires and a line lock.
Stock S197 GT's run between 14.50 and 15.00 here.
My best run with the 3.55's was 13.75 @ 103.05 mph.
I think I'm gonna have a pretty bad traction problem but I'm hoping to gain a couple more tenths. Next on the list is a set of sticky tires and a line lock.
That is what I was thinking when I was reading this post....You need tires!!!
Scott
#10
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Yeah it's getting cool for sure and the air is great! Only problem is that our track is at 2200'
Stock S197 GT's run between 14.50 and 15.00 here.
My best run with the 3.55's was 13.75 @ 103.05 mph.
I think I'm gonna have a pretty bad traction problem but I'm hoping to gain a couple more tenths. Next on the list is a set of sticky tires and a line lock.
Stock S197 GT's run between 14.50 and 15.00 here.
My best run with the 3.55's was 13.75 @ 103.05 mph.
I think I'm gonna have a pretty bad traction problem but I'm hoping to gain a couple more tenths. Next on the list is a set of sticky tires and a line lock.
I might not make it out again until spring. I've got to get my tune sorted out and install my Prothane motor mounts and CHE k-member still. I'm shooting for a 12.75-12.85 for the spring. Maybe I'll see you out there.
And yes you need some drag radials. Rick and I are both running M/T ET Street drag radials 295/45-17 and they work awesome.
Next year I want 4.10's and a one piece driveshaft and loop. But I've gotta pay off the Whipple first.
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I was thinking of MT ET streets. I think I'm going to price a set today. If I can get them for a reasonable price I might put them on for this evening. I hope the weather holds!
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I already have the line locks and M/T ET Streets. I just need the 4.10's and cool weather! Also, I haven't raced in over 30 years, so I need some track experience too.
#15
a. Octane over 91 does not exist within 200 miles.
b. Had to take my F-150 to Ford for a reprogram for high altitude.
c. Forget your car breathing... it took me 6 months to be able to walk a flight of stairs without panting like a dry dog.
d. Sorry for going off topic.
#16
I used to spend time checking prices, but I found out very few (if any) can beat Summit... and they generally arrive on my doorstep 2 days after I order them. I won't buy race tires anywhere else.
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Thanks for the advice Don. I have bought a few things from Summit and I have had good luck with them but I never would have thought to look there for tires.
Went to the track tonight. Yep, I DESPERATELY need better tires. The best I could muster was a 13.6 @ 103.0 mph. Basically I have no traction in 1st at all and second gear isn't much better.
Season is almost over here so I guess I'll wait until spring. I hate winter.
Went to the track tonight. Yep, I DESPERATELY need better tires. The best I could muster was a 13.6 @ 103.0 mph. Basically I have no traction in 1st at all and second gear isn't much better.
Season is almost over here so I guess I'll wait until spring. I hate winter.
#18
hahah... from my perspective, the "season" is just getting started. Other than the occasional rain, I prefer winter here. That's when we get our best air for drag racing. The next 6 to 8 months will be fun!
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