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Allrighty...this was caused this past weekend when I was out playing and testing out the Zex kit. There is caution to be had with the WMS intake and running nitrous, there really isnt enough distance from the TB to properly mix the nitrous/fuel w/ the incoming air.
The zex kit recommends what...6-18" away, Im @ 2 inches. The zex nozzle fitting sits very low in the intake tube, and IMO I was having some puddling issues (fuel) in front of the TB, It was damp, but surprised that it did not affecting the MAF what so ever.But the MAF was ICE cold and I mean ICE cold.
The JET spacer or something similar would be best for the spray and this set-up IMO. A nitrous plate w? intergrated bars, or the cool nex zex perimiter spray they offer for carb cars would be ideal in this situation.
This is plug #5 everyone (drivers front) and to be completely honest, I never felt it.Probably slowly burned away...
The car was driven about 100 miles since the testing, and never felt a thing, not a miss, nadda. Shocked to say the least.
I attribute this to running a 10 lb bottle out empty in under 1.5 hours. With another 5 lbs from bottle #2 the next night.
I also believe that the condition is obviously a lean one, but all other plugs were fine. This particular cylinder plug was starved for fuel IMO. I modified the nozzle placement, and actually have it sticking into the intake tube 1" further to help eliminate the fuel puddling I was encountering. Now its a straight shot intot he TB and through the JET spacer.
I plan to make a longer post with some pics I took, but wanted to let u all know about this. Some will like the install.

CHECK YOUR PLUGS if your spraying...I felt nothing car ran fine, even this moring running w/ a COBRA.
Im installing the colder plugs now, and was planning on going up to a 100 shot, but I will stay @ 75 and check for puddling.

What a weekend

Let the fun continue...WOOHOOO

 

I think Steeda has an option on thier charge motion delete plate to install nitrous.
STEEDA N20

 

It is very important to keep the distance to 6 inches.. If I understand what you are saying, you completely disregarded the 6 - 18 recommendations? Why? 6 inches being the best, and 18 inches being the worst case scenario..

 

Yes fogger would be best. Eight nozzles, eight fuel jets, eight nitrous jets
I actually contacted ZEX before and during install with a lengthy detail of what I forsee, and the reply was from a COMPCAMS technician. Guess they didnt bother to look at the WMS link I sent them...lol
Not sure why, but thats who replied to me. I even traded a few emails with this tech. He was fine with the distance, so I took his word on it....when I first had this in mind before even spraying. Someone had to try it right?
The nozzle sits so low in the tubes the "normal" way, now picture that nozzle right in front of the TB spraying at the lip. It was obvious to me, and like most of us now. I'll go snap a quick pic of the nozzle in the same spot, only higher.

 

Do I see dynamite and a big tass explosion in the making?

 

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There is 2 inches between the nozzle and the TB with also an inch for the Jet TBS. I think this will help alot more, I should have done this to begin with.

thoughts ?

 

Wont the car tend to lean out more, because the 6 inch minimum distance is there so the NOS has time to fog.. At the 2 inches your saying, is it possible its not having enough time to do this?

I guess it does not matter, because whats the difference with a straight shot of nitrous into the cylinder.. I guess your probably ok..

Be nice to see some Dyno numbers on the setup!

 

Mongoose, have faith


The pic sux, sorry for the quality

 

Exactly my point to zex, minimum time @ this distance.But in this case, #5 is leaning out, the others looked normal.
Dyno numbers soon. My tuner is swampped at the moment, we plan to before the 14th.

 

....plus using up a bottle in under 2 hrs really tested those stock plugs IMO. That was pretty quick, there was no time for the stock plugs to cool down. I was making blasts from 40 to 140 on the spray....no lie, man did she pull hard the whole way...Right down RT.1 passing the "Monster mile" where there's plenty of open road, when appropiate of course

 

I argued this point excessively on some of the first WMS threads, people were interested in putting NO2 to it immediately but I thought that this would be a problem. I feel good that my suspicions were correct but I feel bad that you had to find out that way. At least you caught the problem early before any piston damage. I have been running 125hp shot and actually have a rich condition in 3rd gear above 5000rpm, causing a bog and surging but rich is safe and lean is mean but dangerous as you have seen.

 

dude, you are going to do further damage to the engine and related components if you continue to disregard the rule of thumb.

There just isnt enough room to spray correctly and fully atomize, its just spraying into the throttle blades and the face of the bores.

Your only safe option is to spray to each cylinder with the Steeda CM delete plates or ditch the WMS short ram.

You are messing with fire there. :notnice:

-Dan

 

Derek,
How true. Im sticking with the 75's for now. If the "puddling" is gone, the plug will be better for sure. I also expected it, and any problems that were to come with it. My emails to Zex were right, and they were dead wrong

Dan,
I cant possibly ditch the intake now after all this, its actually turned out to be a really good piece, not Nitrous friendly though.I have the Steeda plates now, but not the one with the bosses. Has anyone used them with sucess that u know of?

 

If you want to continue with all this...

plug up the hole where you installed the jet then

return the CM delete plates (without the ports for nozzles) for the plates for use with direct port nozzles. You can build a pretty trick looking system that would obviously best mine. Stainless Steel Tubing and Custom Fabricated Solenoid Mounting Brackets, its my wet dream for the 3v and I may eventually have to do it.

Im not sure how a Zex system would compare to a "better" brand in the direct port department but its worth a try to enquire further about it.

 

I would seriously love to build a direct port setup, its rather expensive @ about $500 since you need 8 nozzles and 16 jets (for 1 power setting, for example: 75shot=16 jets).

-Dan

 

Greek,

Just curious if you've done a compression or leak down check on that cylinder since the melt down and whether it seems to have survived? I'd hold off on the spray until I did some investigation . . . JMHO

 

Thats why you need to tune it on the Dyno before you try it out.I ran the 125 shot last weekend with no problems.But i spent the time on the Dyno to build a Tune for it.

 

This is why I didn't go with the WMS because I couldn't get solid answers on the spraying aspect of it. Everything was going against the rule of thumb for atomization. It's also great seeing that my build direction has made a left turn for the better. Due time!

 

I guess I should have been in on that discussion for that "Really Short Ram Intake" :P

Oh, btw, I got my HTzero plugs today. The pieces are falling into place.

I was dreaming (asleep of course) of these spark plugs and about drag racing launch characteristics to better my 60 foots. None of it could be considered good recommendations though.

-Dan