As the title suggests I am looking to buy a one piece drive shaft. Popular opinion seems to be Coast, Dynotech or Spydershaft. I'm not too bothered which of these I get as it seems they are all pretty good, however, I do want one that bolts straight on without an adaptor plate. My car is an 07 auto.



Are there any vendors out there that can give me a price to supply the DS including shipping to the UK?



Thanks guys,



Andy.

 

You didn't mention the Steeda drive shaft , but I have it and it's a quality piece ...

http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...riveshafts.php

 

You cant get a mass produced 1 piece aluminum drive shaft that just bolts in, they all use the adapter plate.. the only way to not use the adapter plate, is to remove the pinion in the rear-end...You don't want that headache!

 

The Steeda shaft doesn't use an adapter plate , but your right you do have to remove the old pinion ...

 

Does this mean stripping down the rear end, or is it simply a case of unbolting the pinion flange and bolting on a new one?

Thanks, Andy

 

Here's a link to the how to in Taco Bills HotLinks sticky ...

https://themustangsource.com/showthread.php?t=464439

 

The crush sleeve can be crushed 3 times before you need a new one which requires a rear end tear down. Just make sure you get the preload right or you will lose the pinion bearing. Believe me, losing a pinion bearing on the highway sucks, BAD!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryan1112

The crush sleeve can be crushed 3 times before you need a new one which requires a rear end tear down. Just make sure you get the preload right or you will lose the pinion bearing. Believe me, losing a pinion bearing on the highway sucks, BAD!

The pinion flange can be changed without tearing it all apart when you do our driveshaft if you follow our directions. I've never had someone not be able to do it yet. We do it with all our installs with no issues as well.

One great thing about aluminum driveshafts, especially on cars with aftermarket control arms and the stock driveshaft, is it gets rid of most of the driveline clunks that are from the stock driveshaft.

The reason is the factory arms are designed to soak up the slop that is there so when you put aftermarket arms in the clunks seem to get worse. Specifically, they come from the rear driveshaft joint. The rear shaft where it connects to the rear end does not use a U-joint, it uses a rotating coupling. If you were to take the driveshaft and disconnect it from the car, then put your hand on the rear joint and try to rotate it by hand, you would be able to feel the slop that is there with your hand alone. That is the cause of the noise.

A 1 piece shaft will typically get rid of 85 to 95% of those noises, plus its worth 20+lbs of weight reduction and will improve acceleration times by 2 tenths of a second through the 1/4 mile. Any remaining noise will depend on how tight the rear end was set up from the factory.

 

How about issues with a car lowered on the FRPP K springs and using an MGW shifter. If someone could guarantee me no issues with the shifter and the tunnel then I'd be ready to get one.

And yes Gus the clunks were much more noticeable after I changed to the billet control arms from the stockers. If this helps that and saves me 20 pounds that would be fantastic.

 

Watching the thread... B/c I would like to get one soon as well

 

Wasn't the dynotech a direct bolt-on and doesn't need an adapter? I'm pretty sure Brenspeed mentioned that in a similar thread!

 

Yes here is the post from Brenspeed...

 

This is good info, thank you.

 

Most of the time there will be no problem. As I said you get 3 crushes total. What do the instructions say to torque the pinion nut to? As long as the preload is pretty close you'll be fine 99% of the time. I ask this because I was with my friend who tighened his pinion nut to much and when we went for a test drive the pinion bearing gave out at 85 mph. There was a loud grinding sound and the car jerked to the side but he was able to get it staightened out. We had it towed to a performance shop that tore down the rear and we saw the carnage. Once he got the bearing replaced he was good to go.

 

Is it true that 1-piece driveshafts that use adapters are more prone to vibrations than ones that come with a new pinion flange? I plan to get a supercharger and a 1-piece driveshaft is something I'm considering.

 

You should check out Shaftmasters drive shaft. Great product and great price. I have one on my car and have put 50,000 miles on it with no problems and a lot of track time on it too. www.shaftmasters.com

 

There are a number of 1 piece aluminum drive shafts on the market. I went with the Spydershaft 2 years ago in part because it is engineered to fit the application without some sort of adapter. It comes with a new pinion flange which is a snap to change out and you don't have to put an adapter of any kind between the DS and the flange.

My car is lowered 1.5 inches and there is no issues of any kind. No vibration or noise.

 

So you didn't need to check the pinion preload when the driveshaft was installed with a new pinion flange?

 

I installed mine at the same time I had my 4.10 gears installed. So a new crush sleeve was installed then and everything was done according to Ford specs.

 

I have the Coast driveshaft with adapter. No vibrations.