Autocross or Road Racing!
10/29/13, 12:19 PM
#41
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How many miles do you have on it? Rotor warp, or more likely deposit buildup on your rotors shouldn't happen for a long time. If you're getting warp like sensation and you feel you shouldn't, perhaps it would be worth wile to go to slotted rotors to help evacuate the gasses which cause buildup. But this wouldn't be the ideal track rotor.
10/29/13, 01:15 PM
#42
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Hmm, that's weird. How many miles do you have on it? Rotor warp, or more likely deposit buildup on your rotors shouldn't happen for a long time.
If you're getting warp like sensation and you feel you shouldn't, perhaps it would be worth wile to go to slotted rotors to help evacuate the gasses which cause buildup. But this wouldn't be the ideal track rotor.
How many miles do you have on it? Rotor warp, or more likely deposit buildup on your rotors shouldn't happen for a long time. If you're getting warp like sensation and you feel you shouldn't, perhaps it would be worth wile to go to slotted rotors to help evacuate the gasses which cause buildup. But this wouldn't be the ideal track rotor.
So I was wondering if I should upgrade. If it's just a one off deal I might try again with the non drilled or slotted or anything.
10/29/13, 04:42 PM
#43
Shelby GT350 Member
The reason I ask is because my actors rotors SUCK these things after going through some twists the other night and other spirited driving with a few buddies I had to slam on the brakes and they hammer like crazy.
I'm just not sure if it I just brake wrong and warp them or if it just the brake system (I did not go with the brembo option..... Now wishing I did but too late unless I go aftermarket) that's why I asked about rotors as well. Might have to just with a better set of rotors just not drilled and it slotted then.
I'm just not sure if it I just brake wrong and warp them or if it just the brake system (I did not go with the brembo option..... Now wishing I did but too late unless I go aftermarket) that's why I asked about rotors as well. Might have to just with a better set of rotors just not drilled and it slotted then.
A good set of pads would likely be enough for you do be happy on the street and good for a first couple outings in a track environment
10/30/13, 08:50 AM
#44
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Likely pad deposits. Try bedding them again per this process Brake bedding
A good set of pads would likely be enough for you do be happy on the street and good for a first couple outings in a track environment
A good set of pads would likely be enough for you do be happy on the street and good for a first couple outings in a track environment
I will try that maybe that will do the trick!
Just one question the "cooling" period, how long does that take?
10/30/13, 11:09 AM
#45
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20-30 minutes should do it. I followed similar process to bed in my race pads. They were literally smoking at the end of bed it. I could see it from inside the cabin, and when i got out. I gave them 30 minutes to cool off. (remember not to engage your park brake!)
10/30/13, 12:50 PM
#46
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I'm in with the been there, done that...
I used the stock '05 GT brakes for a few events and they were OK with the Pirelli P Zero Neros. As I upgraded the suspension and tires the car got faster meaning more brakes to use. Disks and pads were cooked.
Time to upgrade... but I didn't want to spend $1500 on a Brembo upgrade which meant I'd have to get new wheels. Found the Roush upgrade for cheap on Ebay which got me a larger disks and the bracket. Those disks are $50 shipped on Ebay from Roush. Hard to go wrong there. Shopping around gets me a reasonable price for Hawk pads.
So yea- as you get speed, the brakes will get used more. I'd stay away from R compounds or really sticky tires for a while.
I used the stock '05 GT brakes for a few events and they were OK with the Pirelli P Zero Neros. As I upgraded the suspension and tires the car got faster meaning more brakes to use. Disks and pads were cooked.
Time to upgrade... but I didn't want to spend $1500 on a Brembo upgrade which meant I'd have to get new wheels. Found the Roush upgrade for cheap on Ebay which got me a larger disks and the bracket. Those disks are $50 shipped on Ebay from Roush. Hard to go wrong there. Shopping around gets me a reasonable price for Hawk pads.
So yea- as you get speed, the brakes will get used more. I'd stay away from R compounds or really sticky tires for a while.
10/30/13, 12:50 PM
#47
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Do 10 hard braking from 60-10 then drive for 20-30 minutes to cool the brakes since you do not want to come to a complete stop, and repeats 1-2 more times!
10/30/13, 02:41 PM
#48
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1) do 5-6 medium deceleration near-stops to warm the brakes (~35mph to 5mph)
2) do 6-10 hard near stops (~60mph to 5mph)
3) Pull over in a parking lot, and let the car coast to a stop (or tab the brakes to stop), kill the ignition, put it in 1st and don't engage the park brake. Stay off the brake pedal
4) wait 20-30min
I did this just once with my pads, and it worked out really good
And keep in mind this is a TLAR (that looks about right) process. We don't have test facilities where we can control every variable accurately, so just do the best you can.
11/6/13, 08:50 AM
#49
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The bedding instructions that came with my pads said to do this: 1) do 5-6 medium deceleration near-stops to warm the brakes (~35mph to 5mph) 2) do 6-10 hard near stops (~60mph to 5mph) 3) Pull over in a parking lot, and let the car coast to a stop (or tab the brakes to stop), kill the ignition, put it in 1st and don't engage the park brake. Stay off the brake pedal 4) wait 20-30min I did this just once with my pads, and it worked out really good And keep in mind this is a TLAR (that looks about right) process. We don't have test facilities where we can control every variable accurately, so just do the best you can.
11/6/13, 03:02 PM
#50
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At this point I don't think so, unless you're having issues with them. With 12k miles they are as bedded as they are going to be.
P.S. I have the track pack as well
P.S. I have the track pack as well
11/6/13, 06:25 PM
#51
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11/6/13, 08:31 PM
#52
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The bedding instructions that came with my pads said to do this:
1) do 5-6 medium deceleration near-stops to warm the brakes (~35mph to 5mph)
2) do 6-10 hard near stops (~60mph to 5mph)
3) Pull over in a parking lot, and let the car coast to a stop (or tab the brakes to stop), kill the ignition, put it in 1st and don't engage the park brake. Stay off the brake pedal
4) wait 20-30min
I did this just once with my pads, and it worked out really good
And keep in mind this is a TLAR (that looks about right) process. We don't have test facilities where we can control every variable accurately, so just do the best you can.
1) do 5-6 medium deceleration near-stops to warm the brakes (~35mph to 5mph)
2) do 6-10 hard near stops (~60mph to 5mph)
3) Pull over in a parking lot, and let the car coast to a stop (or tab the brakes to stop), kill the ignition, put it in 1st and don't engage the park brake. Stay off the brake pedal
4) wait 20-30min
I did this just once with my pads, and it worked out really good
And keep in mind this is a TLAR (that looks about right) process. We don't have test facilities where we can control every variable accurately, so just do the best you can.
I was thinking of putting the beast away this weekend till spring if I have some time, I'll try it this year if not.... guess spring it is!!!
12/3/13, 04:35 AM
#54
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12/4/13, 11:14 AM
#55
Shelby GT350 Member
I don't know anyone that has auto-x a Boss but I know a number of tues who have done track days with their bosses. They do very well against most I the other cars out there.
12/31/13, 07:34 PM
#57
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12/31/13, 11:29 PM
#58
Shelby GT500 Member
I really like this thread. I have been toying with the idea of taking my Track Pack Mustang to some events since I bought it. Pretty much why I bought my car with the options I did. I have done a couple auto-x events before and liked the fact that my skills were tested. Since buying my car last year I have moved to Germany. Now I live in Bavaria which is down south near the Austrian border and the Czech Republic. I live in the country and now understand why most of the Premier drivers in the world come from Europe. I have some track days planned and also just some awesome drives planned for next year. Here's my list..
Nurburgring (26 Euro/lap or 5 laps for 90 Euro)
Hockenheimring ( track days/ 15 Euro unlimited laps per heat/5 heats per session)
Drive the Alpine road
That's just next year. I do plan on upgrading the pads and some suspension items eventually after I get more used to the limits of my car. The autobahn is a whole other story. The first time I took a long sweeper downhill at close to 140mph in traffic was insane. Happy racing.
Nurburgring (26 Euro/lap or 5 laps for 90 Euro)
Hockenheimring ( track days/ 15 Euro unlimited laps per heat/5 heats per session)
Drive the Alpine road
That's just next year. I do plan on upgrading the pads and some suspension items eventually after I get more used to the limits of my car. The autobahn is a whole other story. The first time I took a long sweeper downhill at close to 140mph in traffic was insane. Happy racing.
1/1/14, 09:09 AM
#59
Shelby GT350 Member
Steve - I completely understand your point regarding Europe. I lived in Norway for 2 years and traveled through continental Europe numerous times while on assignment. Roads are excellent, drivers are excellent, cars are a blast even with limited power (small diesels with manuals).
I'd love to drive the Nurburgring - highly recommend finding an instructor to go out with you if you do it. Will make the experience faster, safer, and likely more fun! Same for any other track the first time out.
The track pack setup does very well in a track environment for the average driver. It's compliant and predictable for the most part. I do HIGHLY recommend brake pad upgrade though. And brake cooling if you do any sessions over ~15-20 mins. These cars carry a lot of speed and have a lot of weight to slow down!
Hope to see some pics/movies when you get out on track. Enjoy!
I'd love to drive the Nurburgring - highly recommend finding an instructor to go out with you if you do it. Will make the experience faster, safer, and likely more fun! Same for any other track the first time out.
The track pack setup does very well in a track environment for the average driver. It's compliant and predictable for the most part. I do HIGHLY recommend brake pad upgrade though. And brake cooling if you do any sessions over ~15-20 mins. These cars carry a lot of speed and have a lot of weight to slow down!
Hope to see some pics/movies when you get out on track. Enjoy!
1/1/14, 09:58 PM
#60
Shelby GT500 Member
Brake pads and cooling are the next mods that I plan on getting. Even coming off the Autobahn at 130 mph to a short off ramp, which most of them are, repeatedly when I'm cruising around has caused some fade a couple of times. That's what I get for getting lost.