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Swirl Removing and Wet Sanding

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Old 8/10/12 | 08:41 AM
  #1  
LordRipberger's Avatar
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Joined: December 27, 2010
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From: Purdue University, Indiana
Swirl Removing and Wet Sanding

Hey Guys,

I decided to try my hand in wet sanding and swirl removing. I need some advice.

First, I have been successful at removing some swirls on my daily driver and have been able to remove some fine scratches from a green scrubber that my sister used on my dad's car. However, I can not get them all out on either.

My daily driver still has them when in the sun, on my gf's car (which has never been detailed before and has heavy swirls) I can't even make a dent, and when I tried wet sanding, I can not seem to get all the scratches out. I looks good from a few feet, but as soon as the light hits it, you can see the marks reflecting.

I have tried several products...poorboys SSW 1-4, pinnacle XMT 2-4, MG. Ultimate compound, and MG. 105 and 205. I have a PC 7224 and use the speeds 4-5 to do the swirl removing. I go over quickly to make sure the compound it spread, then go slowly over the surface making small circles even though the PC is already dual action.

What am I doing wrong? I need some advice as I was under the impression that my technique is good based on the videos I have seen.

Also, all the directions and videos I have seen say to use a quarter amount of compound for a 2x2 area, but I feel this is not enough to really cover it, without it getting really thin.

All help is appreciated.

Thank you.
Old 8/11/12 | 06:14 PM
  #2  
zipperhead's Avatar
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Joined: August 8, 2006
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From: Upsate New York
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-da-...er-system.html
Old 8/13/12 | 07:33 PM
  #3  
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Mach 1 Member
 
Joined: June 28, 2006
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From: Staten Island, NY
i was about to refer you to the same thing. that system works AWESOME!!! and with the DA buffer there really is NO chance of burning into the paint. versus a straight up run of the mill buffer which takes a lot of practice and finesse to not do more harm then good
Old 8/16/12 | 12:50 PM
  #4  
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Joined: January 5, 2012
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From: Canada
What grid of paper did you used ? start with 1500 grip ( let it soak in water 20min before using it ) put a piece a paper around a small rubber squeegee;



sand very gently ( don't use your finger directly on the paper ) , remove water with the squeegee, stop when you stop seeing the scratch, repeat very gently with 2000 grip then buff it out or go from 1500 to rubbing compound then buff it.

Be very careful. The problem with chemical compound, they just fill the scratch, Paint are so thin now, there's no more abrasive on ( most ) newer compound. On Mustang the paint is easy to work, not to hard or to soft ........... on a scale 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, mustang are 5

Good luck !

Last edited by synar; 8/16/12 at 12:54 PM.
Old 8/22/12 | 06:53 PM
  #5  
adrenalin's Avatar
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Moved to the car care section...
Old 8/27/12 | 07:42 AM
  #6  
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Joined: May 16, 2011
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From: SE Michigan
Unless your girlfriend is driving a C5 Vette or a newer Benz/Lamborghini/Ferrari, chances are the problem isn't that the paint is too hard to easily remove defects, but rather the opposite. I'm guessing she's driving a dark colored (likely black) car that has a softer clear-coat and the issue you're having is micro-marring from not finishing down correctly.

105 and 205 should be able to tackle most problems. I need to know what pads you're using for each product though. Chances are you need to finish up with an extra refining polishing step with an even less aggressive pad.
Old 8/31/12 | 11:57 AM
  #7  
Stevedotmil's Avatar
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Joined: July 15, 2012
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From: Germany
I have used the Meguire's and it worked wonders. I actually got the whole shebang at Wal-Mart locally. I think there's a car buff that actually works in that department. I can also get Groit's stuff at my local Advanced Auto.
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