Suggested new car prep tips
#41
Originally posted by ponyboy66@August 29, 2004, 3:53 AM
Thirdly. Use a clear coat cleaner first. Apply/remove by hand or with an orbital buffer. I personally apply with the orbital buffer (Only if you comfortable with it) and remove by hand. This will remove all old waxes and minor deposits that get into the clear coat such as sap, road debris etc. If the cleaner states that it is paintable you know your getting right down to the clear coat. Meguiar’s makes a line of “mirror glaze” products that pretty much cover the gamut for finish preparation.
Fourth. I use a mildly aggressive polish that I get for my body shop. I bring in a 2 quart bottle and he fills it for $5 (Formula unknown), there are a lot of good products out there. Again use by hand or orbital buffer. Only use a rotary buffer if you know what you are doing. Using the wrong compound or sitting in one spot too long will remove/burn the clear coat. It removes fine scratches and swirl marks and polishes out the clear coat to that deep shine your looking for. Again, I apply this with the orbital and remove by hand.
Thirdly. Use a clear coat cleaner first. Apply/remove by hand or with an orbital buffer. I personally apply with the orbital buffer (Only if you comfortable with it) and remove by hand. This will remove all old waxes and minor deposits that get into the clear coat such as sap, road debris etc. If the cleaner states that it is paintable you know your getting right down to the clear coat. Meguiar’s makes a line of “mirror glaze” products that pretty much cover the gamut for finish preparation.
Fourth. I use a mildly aggressive polish that I get for my body shop. I bring in a 2 quart bottle and he fills it for $5 (Formula unknown), there are a lot of good products out there. Again use by hand or orbital buffer. Only use a rotary buffer if you know what you are doing. Using the wrong compound or sitting in one spot too long will remove/burn the clear coat. It removes fine scratches and swirl marks and polishes out the clear coat to that deep shine your looking for. Again, I apply this with the orbital and remove by hand.
The best way to prep your car for waxing is to use a clay bar, Mothers, Clay Magic or Mequires Quick Clay. If you have never clayed a car, I recommend you run out this afternoon and get a clay bar to try. It will blow your mind at how easily it removes all the road grime without damaging your paint. You can also clay your windows to get them really clean.
After claying, if there are any visable light scratches or swirl marks, you can use a polish like 3M Imperial Glaze. But again anything that you use which is an abrasive will wear away some of your clearcoat.
Finally you can wax with whatever wax or polymer polish your little heart preferes.
But, you may want to note that a couple years ago Ford changed its recommendations (in the owner's manual) from Carnauba based or synthethic waxes so that the manuasl now say ONLY to use a polymer sealant. The manuals also say DO NOT use any waxes that contain abrasives. The formulation of the paints Ford uses have changed significantly over the past few years, all part of reducing / eliminating VHOCs.
#42
Team Mustang Source
1. Wash with Dawn dish soap to remove an oil/grease/wax from the surface.
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Wash with Daw dish soap again
5. Seal with Zaino
6. Go for a cruise in the smoothest, slickest, shiniest Stang ever
2. Clay
3. Polish
4. Wash with Daw dish soap again
5. Seal with Zaino
6. Go for a cruise in the smoothest, slickest, shiniest Stang ever
#43
Legacy TMS Member
Originally posted by BlackRiderX@August 27, 2004, 7:41 PM
While I was signing the papers, in a room with no windows, they must have sent someone to fill the gas tank up. You are buying a new car therefore you should get one that doesn't have unwanted or abused miles on it! This is why I suggest this. Unless you can see them drive across the street to fill it up do not let them take it for gas. The paper I signed said the car was delivered that morning with 8 miles on the odometer. We signed papers in an office for about an hour and when we pulled away in the car there were 64 miles on the car. The funny thing is there was a gas station right down the street. I'm sure my car was entertainment for that day.
While I was signing the papers, in a room with no windows, they must have sent someone to fill the gas tank up. You are buying a new car therefore you should get one that doesn't have unwanted or abused miles on it! This is why I suggest this. Unless you can see them drive across the street to fill it up do not let them take it for gas. The paper I signed said the car was delivered that morning with 8 miles on the odometer. We signed papers in an office for about an hour and when we pulled away in the car there were 64 miles on the car. The funny thing is there was a gas station right down the street. I'm sure my car was entertainment for that day.
This was a big dealer, but most people knew them as sneaky people.
#44
Originally posted by Ex-Contour Lover@August 18, 2004, 9:50 PM
I want to suggest a few tips to prep a new car.
1. Ask for no dealer sticker/decals/license plates except for a $1000 monthly advertising fee. I hate to remove the dealer plate and have to fill in the holes of the front license plate bracket. Or use WD-40 to remove the ugly dealer sticker.
2. Ask for no dealer washing/waxing etc. There is nothing worse than dealer installed swirl marks. Or white wax on the black plastic trim pieces.
3. Spray the interior carpets with Scotch guard at the dealership and let is sit for an hour. The entire car will never be as clean as when it comes from the factory.
4. Look around the car for paint defects and have the body shop not the car saleman repair the paint. I had a salesman get out the nail polish type touch up paint to repair the missing paint. Don't let him do it. Also an entire rear panel did not have clearcoat on it. Have them take the entire car to the body shop and clearcoat the paint or get it written up on a To-Do order form.
5. Keep the RPMs under 2.5k for the first 1k miles. Also vary your speed no cruise control during that time.
6. Don't wax the car until 2 months later. I prefer Zainobros.
7. Tint the windows ASAP, nothing worse than faded red interior. Ask about tint on the front windshield in about a 50% tint. Your dash will thank you.
8. Change the engine oil and manual tranny fluid after 1k and 3k miles. The engine and tranny shed the most medal during breakin. Goto Mobil1 or Amsoil after 3k miles.
9. Install security lug nuts. I can't see loosing my wheels.
10. Unplug the battery and let the OBD-II learn how you drive.
What other tips, do you have?
I want to suggest a few tips to prep a new car.
1. Ask for no dealer sticker/decals/license plates except for a $1000 monthly advertising fee. I hate to remove the dealer plate and have to fill in the holes of the front license plate bracket. Or use WD-40 to remove the ugly dealer sticker.
2. Ask for no dealer washing/waxing etc. There is nothing worse than dealer installed swirl marks. Or white wax on the black plastic trim pieces.
3. Spray the interior carpets with Scotch guard at the dealership and let is sit for an hour. The entire car will never be as clean as when it comes from the factory.
4. Look around the car for paint defects and have the body shop not the car saleman repair the paint. I had a salesman get out the nail polish type touch up paint to repair the missing paint. Don't let him do it. Also an entire rear panel did not have clearcoat on it. Have them take the entire car to the body shop and clearcoat the paint or get it written up on a To-Do order form.
5. Keep the RPMs under 2.5k for the first 1k miles. Also vary your speed no cruise control during that time.
6. Don't wax the car until 2 months later. I prefer Zainobros.
7. Tint the windows ASAP, nothing worse than faded red interior. Ask about tint on the front windshield in about a 50% tint. Your dash will thank you.
8. Change the engine oil and manual tranny fluid after 1k and 3k miles. The engine and tranny shed the most medal during breakin. Goto Mobil1 or Amsoil after 3k miles.
9. Install security lug nuts. I can't see loosing my wheels.
10. Unplug the battery and let the OBD-II learn how you drive.
What other tips, do you have?
#45
For what it's worth, instead of disconnecting the battery, find the fuse for the computer and pull that for a few seconds. That way, you don't have to reset the clock, radio presets, etc.
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