kevinb120

They use a wax simillar to Zaino(actually a two-part 'hardening' wax) its a PITA to put on, I dont bother with it. The dealer charges a ton for paint 'sealant', dont bother. Use good waxes like Meguires gold class. All waxes work well, its how much effort to remove it that makes one better then the other. Always remove wax front to rear on horizontal surfaces and up and down on vertical ones as much as possible to avoid swirls.

You can use a finishing glaze if you really want to get fancy, but for factory paint its usually more work then its worth, this aint a $25,000 house of colors job. I avoid the 'baby diapers' these days, even the stitching on those can scratch. Use 100% high-quality towels dedicated for the car to take off wax(they are usually about $20 each for a good towel at linens and things, wash em like three times with your other laundry before using). Keep two handy, if one hits the ground, dont use it again untill its washed.

One quick run of Quick detailer after waxing gets the last of the haze off and should be used after you dry every time between waxes. It cleans off deposits without removing wax. It takes a little practice to know how much(very little spray actually) to use but you get the hang of it. Its the best car care invention ever. And ALWAYS use regular car wash, never dishwashing detergent unless you are intending to strip off wax, it takes it right off.

GTJeff

For everything that you ever wanted to know about waxing your car go to: www.zainobros.com

kevinb120

I made this thing for my customers that are clueless a long time ago:

freebass55

Thanks, I printed it and I'll use it.

Amy V6

I wax mine ASAP with Meguairs... no waiting on that from me.

Kluski

Thanks. I usually use armour-all on my dash. But I have an somewhat older car. But I will steer clear and try the wipes instead.

Highlander

Thanks for the detailing tips. I like to use Zymol. With ingredients like: Carnauba wax, Bees wax, vitamin E, Aloe Vera, Bannana Coconut extracts and Almond meal it means that I can use it on my skin as well :P

I never use any shiny agents like Armour All on the interior either....just a damp cloth or shammy to wipe it down.

thegoalie

Kevin, you're right about the armor-all on bumpers. I year ago, I applied armor-all to my front plastic bumper, and now it's completely faded and ugly.

I'm pretty pissed off about it, because the armor-all spray bottle said that it was good for bumpers. Live and learn, I guess.

However, the armor-all has significantly improved the interior plastic/vinyl.

Dan

Nice write-up Kev!

kevinb120

Stay away from treating dashes. Use Armorall CLEANER wipes-the blue/purple package I believe. It leaves no residue and looks like new, you can just leave the soapy streaks there and they dissapear. Good stuff. The sillicone based treatments change the different sheens the designers go for anyway.

V10

This is BS. Your engine has already been run up to the max HP RPM on the dyno in the engine manufacturing plant. In addition, the car will have been run up to speed on the chassis dyno at the end of the production line. Finally, the rail yard jockies will already have beaten the snot out of your new GT before they loaded it on the train.

Dan

Say it ain't so V10, please, say it ain't so

Dan

I use this and it works great:



PRESERVES PROTECTANT

Preserves and protects for 30 days! Our MothersĀ® Preserves Protectant is available in traditional spray-on liquid or as convenient, ready-to-use wipes. Constructed to recondition and maintain the original condition and appearance of dashboards, vinyl, bumpers, trim, tires and more. Preserves Protectant isnā€™t an oily surface-coating film. Itā€™s an ozone and smog resisting, UV shielding penetrant; a preservation agent that works on just about any uncoated plastic or rubber.

BlackRiderX

First Kevin made this point, which, I agree is a doublesided sword.

"4. If you do not have the car washed, its nearly impossible to find every defect, so its a double-edge sword. I by all means have no problem with them washing my car for this reason. Get a requisition or some other form that guarantees it gets fixed, definately durring delivery."

Point 1

My 02 GT delivery was a nightmare. It has some paint problems because it was stuck on a truck in a real bad winter storm in Detroit. When it came in it was mostly white. (Black Car) I found out, while getting my oil changed a year later, that the dealer I bought my car from pays some 16 year old kid to wax with Turtle wax. This resulted in most of the swirls I found on the car. I will never again let someone prep my car again!!! I didn't find most of the bad paints spots or swirls until I got home and checked under better lighting. The dealership didn't want to hear it after that. My point is, regardless if you get Dealer Prep or not, make sure you check every inch of the car over BEFORE signing papers or leaving! Take ten minutes and inspect everything! I am going to tell my dealer, during the ordering process, to call me when it comes in and not to touch even the wrapping until I get there. I will unwrap it and spray a hose on it to clean any surface dirt off and I will go over the car with them to look for damage.

Point 2. No one mentioned this yet. You can afford to lose ten or so dollars on a thousand dollar purchase.

While I was signing the papers, in a room with no windows, they must have sent someone to fill the gas tank up. You are buying a new car therefore you should get one that doesn't have unwanted or abused miles on it! This is why I suggest this. Unless you can see them drive across the street to fill it up do not let them take it for gas. The paper I signed said the car was delivered that morning with 8 miles on the odometer. We signed papers in an office for about an hour and when we pulled away in the car there were 64 miles on the car. The funny thing is there was a gas station right down the street. I'm sure my car was entertainment for that day.

Highlander

I agree not letting them fill it up. The car I bought was nearly empty but, the sales man gave me a voucher to get it filled up at the gas station down the street. They still did put the stupid sticker on the bumper after telling him when I ordered it not to. I took it off as soon as I got home and it came off easy.

kevinb120

We never drive customers cars hard to the gas station. Most of our porters drive modified lightings and the like, so they dont exactly feel the need for speed when they go up to the gas station. Ours is also close enough the salespeople usually fill thier own cars.

Badsnke98

Change oil at very low miles? can't see the need today.

Engines improve continuously. Years ago we changed spark plugs, wires, points, condensator, rotors and distributor caps about every six thousand miles and oil every 2K. Today most ignitions are good for 100 thousand plus miles. The oil life in my 03 Enovy I-6 is good for 14K (yep) under highway miles before computor says to change it. Just making a point, I do change it at 6k, it just starts to become somewhat dirty at 3K and about half at 6K not near as bad as our 98 Jimmy at 4K. I have owned 14 new vehicles and never changed the oil before 3K. Do a lot of my own changes and let the oil drain drip for 1 to 4 hrs depending on time I have. I don't like oil change places that rush and leave up to a quart of dirty oil just so you come back sooner because the oil looks filthy sooner.

I do change the Cobra's Mobil 1 at low miles as soon as a little dirt appears, but thats a show toy with very low miles per year now.

As far as the 05 GT goes if it's going to be a daily, I will run it the same as all the others. If it has any paint damage I will pass. If dealer does anything stupid, I will pass, theres always a new car to buy. If I don't get the plan I will pass also.

As far as wax, we didn't get clearcoats till mid-late 80's, that was to seal paint from factory and cut the need for wax, don't need no dealer ripoff extras. Wax I will, when the water backs off beading some, no rush. The average person will never wax there vehicle. Been there done that, didn't make any difference in the long run.

If it's your first new car, do as you wish and be happy, your not going to hurt it any more than the rest of the world will.

wantan05

I am thinking about either going with a Sonic Blue or Performance White. I really do like the Sonic Blue better but, I have heard that it shows dirt very easily and you need to clean it very often. Can anyone who has a car similar to this color confirm that?

Dan

Not an answer but here's my advice:

Pick the colour you LIKE BETTER....and just wash it often.

ponyboy66

My experience with car finishes.
I've been doing it for over 30 years. I am not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

First of all. Never use any sudsing or soap agent that is not intended for car finishes. Hand or dish soap will remove the wax in a heartbeat.

Second. Your cars finish is all based on the clear coat that is applied at the factory. Clear coats are very durable and can give you years of delight if treated properly.

Thirdly. Use a clear coat cleaner first. Apply/remove by hand or with an orbital buffer. I personally apply with the orbital buffer (Only if you comfortable with it) and remove by hand. This will remove all old waxes and minor deposits that get into the clear coat such as sap, road debris etc. If the cleaner states that it is paintable you know your getting right down to the clear coat. Meguiarā€™s makes a line of ā€œmirror glazeā€ products that pretty much cover the gamut for finish preparation.

Fourth. I use a mildly aggressive polish that I get for my body shop. I bring in a 2 quart bottle and he fills it for $5 (Formula unknown), there are a lot of good products out there. Again use by hand or orbital buffer. Only use a rotary buffer if you know what you are doing. Using the wrong compound or sitting in one spot too long will remove/burn the clear coat. It removes fine scratches and swirl marks and polishes out the clear coat to that deep shine your looking for. Again, I apply this with the orbital and remove by hand.

Fifth. Use a wax of your choice. Zymol, Mothers, Meguiarā€™s all make good products. I personally use Meguiarā€™s products. Wax is only a protectant. Your shine will come from the first two steps.

Try to keep your vehicle out of the sun. Not for fading reasons, but for clear coat contaminants. My body guy told me that the hot sun will soften up the clear coat a bit and foreign debris can easily embed itself into the clear coat. If this happens, you will need to take a clay bar to the finish. Itā€™s not fun. Feel your finish, it should be a smooth as a babyā€™s bottom.

I do this process twice a year with one or two waxings in between.
This process takes me an average of 8 hours on my ā€˜66 and I expect that to be no different on the '05.
My 2 cents. Happy detailing.