k3druid

The Mustang is going into hibernation for 6 months (Oct 31).
As this is my first shot at this, I would appreciate any comments
on what I’m doing wrong, what I should be doing and what I’m doing right.

Have a 10X20 Coverall with a Gravel Floor, AC power and a 2-Watt Solar panel.

This is what I’m planning to do for Storage;
Clean, Vacuum and Wax.
Remove all MP3 discs and turn off Shaker 500.
WD40 Key slots.
Full Tank of Gas mixed with Stabilizer.
Inflate Tires to 35 lbs..
Oil changed.
Block Heater Cord out but not plugged in.
Solar panel attached to Battery (cord can be broken for Starting).
Air Filter inlet Blocked with Pot Scrubbers.
Sonic Rodent Repeller plugged in under vehicle.
Warferin Sacks in each corner of the Coverall.
Moth ***** under the Car and in an open container inside.
Crack the windows slightly, so not pressing Seal.
Crack the Top so it is just loose but fabric is Tight.
Release the trunk lid.
Car Cover on (removed Antenna).

I’m planning on starting the car every 2 to 3 weeks until the –30 temps hit
then it could sit for a month or two. The Car will be plugged in 4 hours before starting it.


Counting on your Experience, Thanks in Advance :worship:

ponyboy66

Sounds pretty good except for starting it.
IMHO, it would be more beneficial to just let her set.
80% of engine wear comes from start up.
If it's sitting for extended periods, the oil takes longer to get to the upper end.
If you just start it once in the spring, this will minimize the start up wear.

I have been storing vehicles since the 70's and have never started them during their slumber.

I usually do the following.

1) Moth ***** outside
2) Rat poison under car
3) Baking soda inside
4) light coat of petroleum jelly on seals
5) remove battery
6) desecant inside (I usually collect the bags you get from stuff that you buy. I use inside all my gun cases as well.)
7) I used to jack up the car and put on stands, but the general consensus now is to over inflate a touch and let them set on the floor. Not sure of any ill affects on the suspension. Jury is still out on this one for me.
8) The wash and wax is a good idea.
9) Cover with a very breathable cover. No plastic.
10) In the old days we used to fog the engine with a lubricant to keep cylider walls and rings protected. I know there are fogging oils out there for marine engines, but I'm not sure whats available for autos. I have heard that this is not real beneficial so I haven't done it in years.
11) Fresh oil, no matter how many miles on the oil thats in it.
12) Stabil gas stabilizer and a full tank of gas. Full as full as can be. The least amount of dead air space the better. I run the car about 10 miles to make sure the stabil gets into the entire fuel system.
13) Last but not least and probably most important is you must sing a soft lullaby to her. Let her know that she'll be in your thoughts and dreams and in the spring you will again run wild in the country with her.

adrenalin

Well you guys will be doing a lot more than I will. I will wash and wax the car. Change the oil and filter, stabil in the gas tank and a few rodent repellent devices under and in the car. I will put a car cover on it and that is it.

Not sure why so many people are worried about the suspension. My understanding is the purpose of placing a car on stands was to prevent the tires from getting a flat spot. That was on older cars and does not apply to newer tires. You car sits on the suspension every single day of its life. How could that be a bad thing if it is stored?

rdh03mach1

LOL, yup, told my steed i couldnt afford to park her and she said

"Why oh why do you wanna park me?

DRIVE ME 365 and I won't let ya down!"

whew! what a relief!

GTJeff

Another option is to drive it once every two weeks, between snow storms. That's what I do...

adrenalin

I drove mine last winter, but now with all my mods it would be a snow plow if we had more than 2" of snow. Just not worth it for me. She is being stored

RottenRonny

I would think twice about using WD40. I used to work in a lumber yard, and worked with a lock guy there. He said wd40 is the worst stuff you can put in a lock, because although it initially lubricates, dust and other particles stick to it, causing more problems in the future.
Just what I was told. Take it for what its worth....

paint-boy

personally I think you are going way overboard on getting it ready to store............BUT instead of using moth ***** in the car, use fabric softner sheets (you know the one's you but in the dryer with your clothes) works good, no problem with rodents. plus it smells better than moth ***** in the spring

Stoenr

Actually they still recommend getting the wieght off the tires, or at least moving the car every so often. High speed tires can retain a memory(flat spot) is sitting too long.

Move the vehicle at least every three months to prevent ozone cracking in the bulge area and also to prevent a "flat spot" from developing (due to strain from deflection). If tires do develop a temporary "flat spot", it will usually disappear in a short period of time (for example, the first 25 miles of service).


Sounds like hes got everything pretty much covered tho. Happy storing!

adrenalin

Thanks for that info John. You are the tire guru around here so I will definately do that, however, my car is being stored with the winter tires installed. Do you think I need to move it more often?

Stoenr

Thanks John,
I was thinking tha article I pulled that froms choice of 3 months was a little lengthy. I would every 4-6 weeks. Winter tires the tread compound is usually softer, but dont think theres any reason to do anything different.

Storing with winter tires? Does'nt that defeat the purpose of the winter tires?

adrenalin

Ya I know. I drove the car last year in the winter but now I am storing it and will be storing the TT II rims in the house (oxidation is terrible on uncoated aluminum). I don't have any other tires but the factory rims with the winter tires on it. My wife is getting a G6 so I might swap out the rubber for the winter, that way she will have winter tires. In the spring I'll buy her some new tires.

panamajk89

I agree with this post. WD40 sucks on locks. You're better off leaving them be. No moisture's getting in there over the winter.

For the record, I'd love to garage mine for the winter, but the wife 86'ed the idea of getting a beater for the winter months. Man, they just don't understand. :scratch:

Mine's getting washed every week, undercarriage and all, and not driven during snowstorms. Keeping them clean is the key to keeping the shine. I can't imagine not driving her anyway. I love this car!

NYtoDCStang

darn....I thought I loved my car but I should be arrested for child abuse....My baby gets taken car of but not so obsessively

harleybill

First thing I would do is put a big sheet of plastic below the car to stop moisture from coming up through the ground. The next thing I would do is pull the tires and put the car on jacks....Keeps the tires from getting flat spots as was previously mentioned. Put a good coat of wax on the car and you really don't even need to buff it off till spring. Stop at one of the dried flower places and get some of the moisture absorbing material and put it in the car. Put a good FULL Syn oil in the car before storage. Put the fuel stabalizer in the car when you are sure you aren't going to run it again. (you can actually go to the vitamin store and get BHT and put it in the gas. Makes a great storage stabalizer). Put a battery tender on the battery and after covering it, don't look till spring. That's what I would do (and that's what I do.).

Badsnke98

"WD40 Key slots." > Not needed nor a good idea. White lithium grease would be better.

"Block Heater Cord out but not plugged in." > Why? unless its minus 40 outside and you need to start it.

"Solar panel attached to Battery, (cord can be broken for Starting)." > Just disconnect the negative cable.

"Air Filter inlet Blocked with Pot Scrubbers." > Why? :scratch: The Throttle Body is closed and the airfiter is in place.

"Sonic Rodent Repeller plugged in under vehicle.
Warferin Sacks in each corner of the Coverall.
Moth ***** under the Car and in an open container inside." > Over kill. Have you seen the available Car Bags?

"Crack the windows slightly, so not pressing Seal." > Open the doors before disconnecting the battery.

"Release the trunk lid." > Makes no sense.


"I’m planning on starting the car every 2 to 3 weeks until the –30 temps hit
then it could sit for a month or two. The Car will be plugged in 4 hours before starting it." > Being that cold the amount of condensation after the fact, just let it set till spring. It will fire rightup with the fuel stabizier.

"Counting on your Experience, Thanks in Advance." > :worship: Your welcome.




You live out in the great white north country? Sounds like you do, me too. Well not so white around here.

2005GTDELUXE

Ponyboy is right. In cold I would not start every couple weeks. I did that and got a skip. Then drove out of garage in lot, sun was out, ice fell off roof of garage and hit car.