Hey guys, just wondering what your thoughts are on the Clear Bras paint protection.

Is this material really thick enough to protect against stone chips?

I wonder if the material was peeled back that the damage would still exist!?

Any info or your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Having only had 1 experience with this kind of product, I may not be the one to answer this but I will try. It was on a high end Aston Martin and it had been applied when the vehicle was purchased. The material was not noticable unless you knew it had been installed. No extra car care needed, just wash and wax, however you can not buff over it, no orbital or rotary.
It had been on the vehicle for 10,000 or so miles and had very little damage, nor had it discolored. Vehicle had been in Miami most all of these miles, high temps, sun, salt etc.
But I have no idea of the brand or the cost for original application.

TDS

 

This is the 4th car I've put this on. It will keep anything short of a boulder from damaging your paint. The bra itself can get nicked up though. The weedwacker in my garage fell on the fender of my RX8 and tore through it. Larger rocks will also put snags in it. After 5 years on my silver RX8, it started to yellow. When I peeled it off, there was no damage to the paint anywhere. I would much rather spend $600 every 5 years to replace the bra, than to have the car repainted. No body shop can replicate the factory paint job.

 

Thanks for both of your input, I was really second guessing its true protection due to how thin it was.
I thought for sure you were gonna say you peeled it off and anywhere a rock hit the plastic and marred it that there was still damage under it.
I spent $279.00 on kit and hoping my tint guy charges me $125.00 or less.

 

Super easy to do yourself. Save the $.

 

I have been debating wether I want to try it, but if I cant do it, theres $300.00 down the tubes..

 

All you do is peel, spray, position, squeegee and done. I can't believe someone is charging $100+ for that! Not sure how you could screw it up. And you're paying $300 for a bra kit??? I think I got mine for like $100.

 

It depends on the vehicle and whether it has simple curves or compound curves. I paid a Pro for my Bullitt but I tried myself for my winter car. Sheesh! I pulled and stretched as best I could - pulled it back off before it set and tried again. I couldn't stretch it quite enough and I have puckers around the headlights. Maybe with two people it would have been fine. As for straight areas or those without compound curves, yes its easy.

 

local guy has one on a nsx, you have to look hard to see actually see it. He praised the product, and his car is awesome, I don not know anything about the care of it, but buffing and orbitals should not touch it.

 

you happen to buy that car off of Baldo?

 

Yes, Steve Baldo FORD

 

I've had 3M paint protection film on my car for 3 years now and LOVE it! It really does protect well. I've taken some hard shots from rocks and it has protected it beautifully. Also, I've found that Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 (used by hand of course) can be used to remove swirl marks in it without hazing

 

Thats a great idea about swirls in the bra..good info.

 

I've been considering this for the V6. While researching I see that the paint must have a chance to "cure" before application. As cars are being built & shipped pretty quick and the joke has been that the paint is still wet, is this a reason to wait a few weeks before application? Or are modern paints pretty much ready to go in a few days? I would prefer to have it done before I drive it much.

 

I'm curious, when its time to replace the clear bra, will it lift the factory decals off? (stripes)

 

I would think it would be ok, the direction and process is the important key.

 

FYI - My Bullitt was built 1.9.08 and by the time it was delivered and the Dealer applied the 3M mask it was 2.12.08, for a little over 30 days.

This time frame was confirmed in 2010 by a top notch body shop that repaired a key job, and they waited 30 days for the clear coat to 'cure' before applying replacement 3M.