Ponies on The Run (Again)
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On a MUCH smaller scale....
I 'raced' R/C Nitro Monster Trucks. They handled like... well like trucks. Putting a sway bar on both ends dramatically improved the handling. you can balance the under/oversteer with the right sway bars front and rear. The scale may be a 8th now but the concept is the same.
I 'raced' R/C Nitro Monster Trucks. They handled like... well like trucks. Putting a sway bar on both ends dramatically improved the handling. you can balance the under/oversteer with the right sway bars front and rear. The scale may be a 8th now but the concept is the same.
Got any info on them would like to know more as it sounds like a cool sport.
Thanks pal
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Oh you're a rockstar alright Billy Boy, at least in your mind you are ha
Have fun guys wish us non SoCal guys could join in, it would be a HOOT
And Bill we expect a full set of exposing pic's detailing all the gory/nasty fun.
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Well, there is the issue of swaybar preload. This not only makes the car lean when sitting still, but also causes understeer when turning one direction, and oversteer when turning the opposite direction.
They make the adjustable end-links to fix this problem, but they are kind of a pain. Take off the swaybar and you won't have ANY preload at all!
Then, you might as well install the delete kit to get that heavy crossmember off, whose main purpose is to support the forces acting on it from the swaybar (which is now gone). The delete kit replaces it with a bar that only supports the radiator.
Unless you are road racing, I really don't see the need for the swaybar - Leo and I have noticed ZERO difference in handling. (And we don't agree on much!)
To test it out, just remove either of the swaybar end links... it's that easy! The swaybar will still be installed, but neither side will be acting against the other. If you like it, take it all out... if you hate it, put the end link back in.
They make the adjustable end-links to fix this problem, but they are kind of a pain. Take off the swaybar and you won't have ANY preload at all!
Then, you might as well install the delete kit to get that heavy crossmember off, whose main purpose is to support the forces acting on it from the swaybar (which is now gone). The delete kit replaces it with a bar that only supports the radiator.
Unless you are road racing, I really don't see the need for the swaybar - Leo and I have noticed ZERO difference in handling. (And we don't agree on much!)
To test it out, just remove either of the swaybar end links... it's that easy! The swaybar will still be installed, but neither side will be acting against the other. If you like it, take it all out... if you hate it, put the end link back in.
Good and valid points Brian.
Unless you're pushing it thru the twisties, you probably won't feel any difference.
No harm in shaving some weight here and there Kyle!
Sorry Phil, I'm 99.99% sure that no cameras are allowed. Leo may be thankful for this policy.
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OK, very cool Leo. I know what you mean about the burble, I get the burble and pop when I slow shift between 1st and 2nd gears (especially in the parking garage I'm in) and when I decel. I love that sound.
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Well, there is the issue of swaybar preload. This not only makes the car lean when sitting still, but also causes understeer when turning one direction, and oversteer when turning the opposite direction.
They make the adjustable end-links to fix this problem, but they are kind of a pain. Take off the swaybar and you won't have ANY preload at all!
Then, you might as well install the delete kit to get that heavy crossmember off, whose main purpose is to support the forces acting on it from the swaybar (which is now gone). The delete kit replaces it with a bar that only supports the radiator.
Unless you are road racing, I really don't see the need for the swaybar - Leo and I have noticed ZERO difference in handling. (And we don't agree on much!)
To test it out, just remove either of the swaybar end links... it's that easy! The swaybar will still be installed, but neither side will be acting against the other. If you like it, take it all out... if you hate it, put the end link back in.
They make the adjustable end-links to fix this problem, but they are kind of a pain. Take off the swaybar and you won't have ANY preload at all!
Then, you might as well install the delete kit to get that heavy crossmember off, whose main purpose is to support the forces acting on it from the swaybar (which is now gone). The delete kit replaces it with a bar that only supports the radiator.
Unless you are road racing, I really don't see the need for the swaybar - Leo and I have noticed ZERO difference in handling. (And we don't agree on much!)
To test it out, just remove either of the swaybar end links... it's that easy! The swaybar will still be installed, but neither side will be acting against the other. If you like it, take it all out... if you hate it, put the end link back in.
I think theres a write-up on this isn't there, an infamous TacoBill write-up
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OK one last question for all you experts here. I need your honest feedback and suggestion.
I think I can scrape up enough $ for one more mod. So I'm thinking of the following as I'm looking for more RW horsepower. RW Horsepower is the driving factor here.
So what do you think guys which one would you lean to to get the most power bang?
Thanks so much for your feedback pals
I think I can scrape up enough $ for one more mod. So I'm thinking of the following as I'm looking for more RW horsepower. RW Horsepower is the driving factor here.
- Under drive pulleys
- Delete plates
So what do you think guys which one would you lean to to get the most power bang?
Thanks so much for your feedback pals
Team Mustang Source
OK one last question for all you experts here. I need your honest feedback and suggestion.
I think I can scrape up enough $ for one more mod. So I'm thinking of the following as I'm looking for more RW horsepower. RW Horsepower is the driving factor here.
Thanks so much for your feedback pals
I think I can scrape up enough $ for one more mod. So I'm thinking of the following as I'm looking for more RW horsepower. RW Horsepower is the driving factor here.
- Under drive pulleys
- Delete plates
Thanks so much for your feedback pals
If budgeted for both mods, I'd say you're almost there in gettng a 1-pc aluminum driveshaft. This mod will regain more HP than the other 2 combined, and one that you'll definitely feel.
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Well, there is the issue of swaybar preload. This not only makes the car lean when sitting still, but also causes understeer when turning one direction, and oversteer when turning the opposite direction.
They make the adjustable end-links to fix this problem, but they are kind of a pain. Take off the swaybar and you won't have ANY preload at all!
Then, you might as well install the delete kit to get that heavy crossmember off, whose main purpose is to support the forces acting on it from the swaybar (which is now gone). The delete kit replaces it with a bar that only supports the radiator.
Unless you are road racing, I really don't see the need for the swaybar - Leo and I have noticed ZERO difference in handling. (And we don't agree on much!)
To test it out, just remove either of the swaybar end links... it's that easy! The swaybar will still be installed, but neither side will be acting against the other. If you like it, take it all out... if you hate it, put the end link back in.
They make the adjustable end-links to fix this problem, but they are kind of a pain. Take off the swaybar and you won't have ANY preload at all!
Then, you might as well install the delete kit to get that heavy crossmember off, whose main purpose is to support the forces acting on it from the swaybar (which is now gone). The delete kit replaces it with a bar that only supports the radiator.
Unless you are road racing, I really don't see the need for the swaybar - Leo and I have noticed ZERO difference in handling. (And we don't agree on much!)
To test it out, just remove either of the swaybar end links... it's that easy! The swaybar will still be installed, but neither side will be acting against the other. If you like it, take it all out... if you hate it, put the end link back in.
What brand did you guys get (Leo/Tom), was it GMS and didn't you get a good price on the kit? I may have to do this cheap mod, although if its GMS I may have to pass as I have a self imposed sanctioning on GMS.'
I think theres a write-up on this isn't there, an infamous TacoBill write-up
I think theres a write-up on this isn't there, an infamous TacoBill write-up
BTW-Bill does have a write-up in his stickys that Tom made.
OK one last question for all you experts here. I need your honest feedback and suggestion.
I think I can scrape up enough $ for one more mod. So I'm thinking of the following as I'm looking for more RW horsepower. RW Horsepower is the driving factor here.
Thanks so much for your feedback pals
I think I can scrape up enough $ for one more mod. So I'm thinking of the following as I'm looking for more RW horsepower. RW Horsepower is the driving factor here.
- Under drive pulleys
- Delete plates
Thanks so much for your feedback pals
Team Mustang Source
NTTAWWT
I have to find something else to do, "my name is David, and im a TMS-a-holic"
you guys seen any cars with painted interiors? I saw one the other day, didnt have my camera on me , but I wonder how much that costs...
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Talking about mods you can feel...drove the stang to work and I just cant believe how great the MGW shifter is! It is really a pleasure to drive! Best mod for the money.
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Yes TMS is acting totally strange and I like the post from the future feature.......................
Or maybe they fixed that. Man TMS was totally PMS yesterday. Make that PMS today also as I can't get to page 738 for some reason. Yikes
Is there a page view limitation, maybe......................... This is so weird not being able to get to page 738
Or maybe they fixed that. Man TMS was totally PMS yesterday. Make that PMS today also as I can't get to page 738 for some reason. Yikes
Is there a page view limitation, maybe......................... This is so weird not being able to get to page 738
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George have to agree with you, the MGW shifter is so great. I didn't drive my GT long with the stock shifter as I changed out to the MGW fairly quickly given Bill's persuasion so it would be cool again to drive a stock shifter so I can really, really appreciate my MGW. We get used to perfection!