Ponies on The Run (Again)
Team Mustang Source
More importantly for me are three things that are quickly coming to a head. First and most importantly I think I need to either get a new TOB or an aftermarket TOB. I am starting to have problems shifting when stopped into first or reverse, which is almost impossible. The only time I can hope to hit either gear is to hopefully get it into third or second then go to 1st or Rev. I can feel the trans still moving even though I've had the clutch completely depressed for 10+ seconds when trying to get it into 2nd or 3rd, having 1st and Rev completely locked out.
Secondly the strut popping/endlink problem is annoying the sh|t out of me right now. I'm going to look at the end-links again this weekend and see what's what. If they are problem I will try and fix them this weekend. If I cannot determine where it is coming from I will be replacing both strut mounts and endlinks with aftermarket pieces.
Both solutions are 350-400 dollars. One will cost me extra for labor. With being off work a length of time without pay coming up I can
afford neither. between work and this, I'm a little frustrated
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*poking this thread*
Luis- Are you still doing the battery mod? Get that ebay endeavor going yet?
Jed- So what's all EV and crew doing to your car? Gears and coilovers only? What kind of gear oil you going with?
Brian- Going to get the K&N breather or just planning on hooking up your 2 year old catch can by any means necessary?
Leo- No complaints with the car except for the strut popping?
Ray- What's the next mod? New wheels I hope.
Gary- Nothing new planned for the stang?
David- What ever happened to that Mach 1 you were looking at?
Koji- Are you ever planning on getting that ding fixed? Or is it now a permanent fixture?
Steve & George- You guys still alive?
Luis- Are you still doing the battery mod? Get that ebay endeavor going yet?
Jed- So what's all EV and crew doing to your car? Gears and coilovers only? What kind of gear oil you going with?
Brian- Going to get the K&N breather or just planning on hooking up your 2 year old catch can by any means necessary?
Leo- No complaints with the car except for the strut popping?
Ray- What's the next mod? New wheels I hope.
Gary- Nothing new planned for the stang?
David- What ever happened to that Mach 1 you were looking at?
Koji- Are you ever planning on getting that ding fixed? Or is it now a permanent fixture?
Steve & George- You guys still alive?
I am currently spraying tint on my stock headlights. I will also spray my stock taillights and front markers. The stuff seems to be working well. I bought some painted taillights off the net but they were just too dark and I worry I'm gonna get in a wreck especially on a bright day when its harder to see the brake lights.
I've got an electrical gremlin to track down. I'm thinking my red top Optima is junk after only a year. But I've heard similar complaints on the net.
I got the Ford fix-a-flat/air compressor like the GT500s and I'm gonna remove my spare and use that. The spare I'm gonna use for the Fox after I do my 5 lug swap over Christmas vacation.
I've got the PIAA fog lights and Steeda brake ducts to go into the Shelby lower grille inserts that I'm gonna install.
New Hawk brake pads go in. I didn't do it when I did the rotors. Also putting in stainless steel brake lines. Now that I've got a Motive pressure bleeder it should be easier to do. As long as that cap will seal on the master cylinder.
Last but not least. Steeda Bumpsteer kit to solve my hecksa bumpsteer issues. I've lived with it for about a year, but enough is enough. Tired of the squirrely feeling at speed over bumps and then the tendency to follow uneven pavement and depressions in the roads.
Oh...plus there is the whole audio system reworking I'm gonna do. I've got a new amp to replace the subwoofer amp that I blew.
That's about it.
Then there is the whole Fox Mustang renovation.
Also sucks about the clutch/TOB issue. So you sure it's an issue with the TOB and not with the shifter and/or clutch? Either way, sounds like this issue needs to be adressed before the popping and breather issue.
He needs to drill some pilot holes in the steel sheetmetal. He may have a chance if it were aluminum, but one slip and he'll have one helluva pigtail.
Gary wins for having the most on his plate.
Good luck with all that dude.
But for those interested, from my Boeing news update...
Update: 787 begins its first flight
The first 787 Dreamliner took to the skies today from Paine Field in Everett, Wash., under the control of Capt. Mike Carriker and Capt. Randy Neville. Takeoff occurred at 10:27 a.m. Pacific time. The plane is expected to land around 1 p.m. Pacific time. A live webcast will begin approximately 10 minutes before landing. It will conclude with a post-flight press conference. The webcast is available at www.boeing.com and www.newairplane.com.
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Jed,Ray,Koji top this.
http://jalopnik.com/5427221/drag-rac...lls-death-wish
http://jalopnik.com/5427221/drag-rac...lls-death-wish
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Funking AWESOME!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLKL7...ayer_embedded#
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLKL7...ayer_embedded#
Team Mustang Source
I read about the new pow-wow change in FB. Hope this transition of powers comes without speedbumbs to you.
Also sucks about the clutch/TOB issue. So you sure it's an issue with the TOB and not with the shifter and/or clutch? Either way, sounds like this issue needs to be adressed before the popping and breather issue.
Also sucks about the clutch/TOB issue. So you sure it's an issue with the TOB and not with the shifter and/or clutch? Either way, sounds like this issue needs to be adressed before the popping and breather issue.
TOB... I'm not sure 100% but three things for sure seem to lead to that as the issue
1) car will not go into gear
2) lately with the clutch fully depressed against the firewall going into 2nd (1st is a no go) and being at a complete stop I can feel the gears still moving while trying to put it into gear, like I'm letting the clutch out slightly.
3) Everyone notes that the stock TOB doesn't last long with hi-perf clutch/pres. plates. I can point to several posts of issues that describe exactly what I'm going through. Replacing the TOB or going aftermarket resolves the problem.
However there are times when it's absolutely perfect and a smooth operation stopped, under power...etc. Today at lunch it was not, driving Luis around and Luis driving it, it was good to go
My hardhead says that if I'm replacing it it's going to be with a unit that won't fail again in 10K miles and so aftermarket seems to be the choice.
all kidding aside. I think the problem stems from that none of us have the correct tool to hold the upper-end-link stud while torquing down the nut. However last time I checked they were pretty solid but I am convinced it's what it is. Again with the aftermarket versions that I have seen seem to have a hex on what would be the back side of the nut that would help hold the stud in place while the nut is torqued down. If it's the strut mount again I'd rather not F with it go steeda, maximum motor or JDM to be done with it once and for all.
What does suck is both of these put together kills the CJ front-end that I was hoping to do sometime soon.
Last edited by habu; 12/15/09 at 03:51 PM.
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it sucks but what can you do, ya know ? I've been waiting for this shoe to drop in at least one department since the merger (they buying us out) and it ended up being our dept. With luck it will end up being a good thing as we're the only ones that do what we do in the enterprise.
TOB... I'm not sure 100% but three things for sure seem to lead to that as the issue
1) car will not go into gear
2) lately with the clutch fully depressed against the firewall going into 2nd (1st is a no go) and being at a complete stop I can feel the gears still moving while trying to put it into gear, like I'm letting the clutch out slightly.
3) Everyone notes that the stock TOB doesn't last long with hi-perf clutch/pres. plates. I can point to several posts of issues that describe exactly what I'm going through. Replacing the TOB or going aftermarket resolves the problem.
However there are times when it's absolutely perfect and a smooth operation stopped, under power...etc. Today at lunch it was not, driving Luis around and Luis driving it, it was good to go
My hardhead says that if I'm replacing it it's going to be with a unit that won't fail again in 10K miles and so aftermarket seems to be the choice.
well we drive our cars....
all kidding aside. I think the problem stems from that none of us have the correct tool to hold the upper-end-link stud while torquing down the nut. However last time I checked they were pretty solid but I am convinced it's what it is. Again with the aftermarket versions that I have seen seem to have a hex on what would be the back side of the nut that would help hold the stud in place while the nut is torqued down. If it's the strut mount again I'd rather not F with it go steeda, maximum motor or JDM to be done with it once and for all.
What does suck is both of these put together kills the CJ front-end that I was hoping to do sometime soon.
TOB... I'm not sure 100% but three things for sure seem to lead to that as the issue
1) car will not go into gear
2) lately with the clutch fully depressed against the firewall going into 2nd (1st is a no go) and being at a complete stop I can feel the gears still moving while trying to put it into gear, like I'm letting the clutch out slightly.
3) Everyone notes that the stock TOB doesn't last long with hi-perf clutch/pres. plates. I can point to several posts of issues that describe exactly what I'm going through. Replacing the TOB or going aftermarket resolves the problem.
However there are times when it's absolutely perfect and a smooth operation stopped, under power...etc. Today at lunch it was not, driving Luis around and Luis driving it, it was good to go
My hardhead says that if I'm replacing it it's going to be with a unit that won't fail again in 10K miles and so aftermarket seems to be the choice.
well we drive our cars....
all kidding aside. I think the problem stems from that none of us have the correct tool to hold the upper-end-link stud while torquing down the nut. However last time I checked they were pretty solid but I am convinced it's what it is. Again with the aftermarket versions that I have seen seem to have a hex on what would be the back side of the nut that would help hold the stud in place while the nut is torqued down. If it's the strut mount again I'd rather not F with it go steeda, maximum motor or JDM to be done with it once and for all.
What does suck is both of these put together kills the CJ front-end that I was hoping to do sometime soon.
Try bleeding it first...might have some air trapped in it.
That would explain why sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt.....plus bleeding is cheap and easy. Not unlike some of the girls I've dated.....
Team Mustang Source
Funking AWESOME!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLKL7...ayer_embedded#
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLKL7...ayer_embedded#
Funking AWESOME!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLKL7...ayer_embedded#
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLKL7...ayer_embedded#
NTTAWWT
bill, I'm still doing alot of looking. I've found a few cars that I would buy, but I'm trying to wait until the end of spring semester to find something permanent
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Bill's got my back on this answer
I don't know but you're the lucky one. I'm glad we fixed my issue about 99% through. That 1% I can live and maybe we'll look into it during the next install party.
That man truly has Steel *****
From the lurking I've done, go aftermarket with the TOB. IMO, I would consider tracing steps and trying cheaper/simpler alternatives before throwing parts at the issue.
Jed,Ray,Koji top this.
http://jalopnik.com/5427221/drag-rac...lls-death-wish
http://jalopnik.com/5427221/drag-rac...lls-death-wish
TOB... I'm not sure 100% but three things for sure seem to lead to that as the issue
1) car will not go into gear
2) lately with the clutch fully depressed against the firewall going into 2nd (1st is a no go) and being at a complete stop I can feel the gears still moving while trying to put it into gear, like I'm letting the clutch out slightly.
3) Everyone notes that the stock TOB doesn't last long with hi-perf clutch/pres. plates. I can point to several posts of issues that describe exactly what I'm going through. Replacing the TOB or going aftermarket resolves the problem.
1) car will not go into gear
2) lately with the clutch fully depressed against the firewall going into 2nd (1st is a no go) and being at a complete stop I can feel the gears still moving while trying to put it into gear, like I'm letting the clutch out slightly.
3) Everyone notes that the stock TOB doesn't last long with hi-perf clutch/pres. plates. I can point to several posts of issues that describe exactly what I'm going through. Replacing the TOB or going aftermarket resolves the problem.
Funny, just a short 2 years ago, I had no idea what most all those beers listed were or even how they taste.
I'm no beer sommelier by any means, but I have tried alot of kinds that I wouldn't have otherwised if not for the beer drinking POTR gang.
When all my sh*t was apart, I asked about the stock TOB too. Guess since it only had a few k miles on it, they left it in.
Team Mustang Source
Funny, just a short 2 years ago, I had no idea what most all those beers listed were or even how they taste.
I'm no beer sommelier by any means, but I have tried alot of kinds that I wouldn't have otherwised if not for the beer drinking POTR gang.
When all my sh*t was apart, I asked about the stock TOB too. Guess since it only had a few k miles on it, they left it in.
I'm no beer sommelier by any means, but I have tried alot of kinds that I wouldn't have otherwised if not for the beer drinking POTR gang.
When all my sh*t was apart, I asked about the stock TOB too. Guess since it only had a few k miles on it, they left it in.
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Or the clutch pump or slave cylinder are on their last legs. That happened with my Mazda when I installed the ACT clutch kit. It worked ok with the stock style clutch, but when I put the new one, it didn't even bulge. I replaced both the pump & cylinder and no issues for two years and counting. Also, the TOB should ALWAYS be replaced with a new clutch, no matter the mileage, due to the fact that it's wear was with that specific pressure plate. Just my 2 cents.