Ponies on The Run (Again)
12/28/08, 04:34 PM
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12/28/08, 04:36 PM
Team Mustang Source
Originally Posted by JedCranium
Nice pictures Koji, I've been trying to get out that way. Maybe we can get the SoCal POTR guys to make this trek. Than afterwards do a canyon run via Mullholland to the ocean via PCH? I know a lot of the Shelby guys go to this, did you find that to be true? Hey looks like the guy on your right has clears going!
Jed
Jed
I understand some of the attendees caravan down PCH to a eatery called "Neptune" something or another... Lets plan on it one Sunday...after it warms up! It was freakin' freezin! 
Ok caught up.. Pics look great Koji
the cars are more my type from the looks of it Stangpede 
Last edited by habu; 12/28/08 at 04:40 PM.
12/28/08, 04:46 PM
Cool vid Jed!
Dang Jed, you're going to force me to clean the Tacoma now.
Looks like it's ready for sale... Smart Car!
Blonde or not... no coffee in the car!
Looks like it's ready for sale... Smart Car!
Blonde or not... no coffee in the car!
12/28/08, 04:46 PM
Team Mustang Source
12/28/08, 04:47 PM
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No sequentials and I plan to stay that way 
Yikes! Be safe out there
+1
That would be fun.
Maybe we can get Leo out there and see how he does
That would be fun.
Maybe we can get Leo out there and see how he does
12/28/08, 07:05 PM
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. Pressures on Jed
12/28/08, 07:11 PM
Stay tuned for Before & After pics.
12/28/08, 08:54 PM
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12/28/08, 09:02 PM
12/28/08, 09:50 PM
12/28/08, 09:52 PM
Team Mustang Source
12/28/08, 09:56 PM
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1. On a cold engine spray completely with 409 cleaner. Use a nylon brush to release grease and
dirt.
2. Take 4 oz baking soda mixed with 1 quart hot tap water. Use this solution to neutralize the
battery acid residue on the terminals and upper surface of the battery.
Let cleanser and baking soda solution stand for 5 min's.
3. Prep a hose and spray attachment. START engine, immediately rinse off cleanser and dirt. Avoid
spraying excessive water on the electrical wiring, alternator and fuse box.
4. After rinse and with the engine still running use an air hose and attachment and blow dry any
remaining moisture. Run engine until the engine components are visibly dry.
5. Turn off motor and use Adams Undercarriage spray and whip all surfaces in the engine bay.
6. Finish up using Adams In & Out spray.
7. Step back in Awe!
Jed
Last edited by JedCranium; 12/28/08 at 10:12 PM.
12/28/08, 10:00 PM
12/28/08, 10:09 PM
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12/28/08, 10:12 PM
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Here's my method:
1. On a cold engine spray completely with 409 cleaner. Use a nylon brush to release grease and
dirt.
2. Take 4 oz baking soda mixed with 1 quart hot tap water. Use this solution to neutralize the
battery acid residue on the terminals and upper surface of the battery.
Let cleanser and baking soda solution stand for 5 min's.
3. Prep a hose and spray attachment. START engine, immediately rinse off cleanser and dirt. Avoid
spraying excessive water on the electrical wiring, alternator and fuse box.
4. After rinse and with the engine still running use an air hose and attachment and blow dry any
remaining moisture. Run engine until the engine components are visibly dry.
5. Turn off motor and use Adams Undercarriage spray and whip all surfaces in the engine bay.
6. Finish up using Adams In & Out spray.
7. Step back in Awe!
Jed
1. On a cold engine spray completely with 409 cleaner. Use a nylon brush to release grease and
dirt.
2. Take 4 oz baking soda mixed with 1 quart hot tap water. Use this solution to neutralize the
battery acid residue on the terminals and upper surface of the battery.
Let cleanser and baking soda solution stand for 5 min's.
3. Prep a hose and spray attachment. START engine, immediately rinse off cleanser and dirt. Avoid
spraying excessive water on the electrical wiring, alternator and fuse box.
4. After rinse and with the engine still running use an air hose and attachment and blow dry any
remaining moisture. Run engine until the engine components are visibly dry.
5. Turn off motor and use Adams Undercarriage spray and whip all surfaces in the engine bay.
6. Finish up using Adams In & Out spray.
7. Step back in Awe!
Jed
12/28/08, 11:01 PM
OK it's actually a little more complicated than I thought it would be. On the CS front there is the center section which is the unpainted black plastic. At the front leading edge it is 6.25" but underneath its at 5.75". Then on either side of this center section there is a painted section that is lower and you can kind of see this in pictures. At this point on either side at the leading edge its 6" off the ground but up underneath it is 5.25".
So you can clear anything less than a 5.25" curb with a CS front bumper and FRPP springs.
So you can clear anything less than a 5.25" curb with a CS front bumper and FRPP springs.
12/29/08, 12:02 AM
NTTAWWT
I'll add a pic of my 99 Grand Cherokee engine, not the cleanest, but for 135k miles, and sitting outside all the time, all weather driven...
car itself doesnt look too bad when clean
12/29/08, 12:36 AM
Team Mustang Source
OK it's actually a little more complicated than I thought it would be. On the CS front there is the center section which is the unpainted black plastic. At the front leading edge it is 6.25" but underneath its at 5.75". Then on either side of this center section there is a painted section that is lower and you can kind of see this in pictures. At this point on either side at the leading edge its 6" off the ground but up underneath it is 5.25".
So you can clear anything less than a 5.25" curb with a CS front bumper and FRPP springs.
So you can clear anything less than a 5.25" curb with a CS front bumper and FRPP springs.
I'll have to measure the CDC and see how they stack up. Got a feeling that the CDC is lower and if so going to a CS front end would help reduce the number of scrapings I have(the CDC looks like crap right now, IMO)
But... there is the other side of my brain that says that 1K+ to get it all done painted and painting stripes just isn't worth it until I go forged.... ARGH. Too many things to do and not enough money to go around.