Opinions needed about fluid changes
#1
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: February 26, 2012
Location: Down south in Dixie
Posts: 2,204
Received 390 Likes
on
287 Posts
Opinions needed about fluid changes
OK kids, you all know that I bought a vey low mileage S-197. I've updated quite a few things, and next up would be the tranny, and rear diff fluids. Looking at the owners manual it only talks about the mileage it should be changed, but nothing about the fluids timing out. I know it's cheap, and easy to change them out. But, I was just wondering what your thoughts are if I just left the factory stuff in there even though they are close to 15 years old.
#2
The Analog Admin!
Join Date: November 27, 2004
Location: Visalia Ca.
Posts: 10,901
Received 3,157 Likes
on
2,311 Posts
OK kids, you all know that I bought a vey low mileage S-197. I've updated quite a few things, and next up would be the tranny, and rear diff fluids. Looking at the owners manual it only talks about the mileage it should be changed, but nothing about the fluids timing out. I know it's cheap, and easy to change them out. But, I was just wondering what your thoughts are if I just left the factory stuff in there even though they are close to 15 years old.
{If} I Only Changed One Thing it Would Be Coolant! And Then Brake Fluid Would Be a Good Idea!
BTMO
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 2/9/23 at 01:28 PM.
#3
Legacy TMS Member
Humidity, dirtiness and damage from heat or chemicals are the problems you face with oils in components no matter the age of them. They'll virtually last forever in a sealed container with proper conditions, but once the container is opened, humidity can get in there. Once they've been overheated or frozen the oil molecules break down. If there's wear components (and there are) in the assembly being oiled, that will contaminate the oil.
Oil is recycled because it generally doesn't break down unless you really mess it up with the heat or it's attacked chemically. And even then the old and literally busted oil can be useful in recycling. They re-refine the used oils (all of them, that's why you can dump everything into the one container and ship it to the recycler like they do in the big shops) and the oil they wind up making with the used oil is the same or even better than the original refined oils. What is broken down/old and busted 'oil' won't float to the same levels as the oils desired in the fractionating process, and you get the same oil as you would from fresh crude, clean and water free.
All that to say as long as it comes up to temperature to drive out the water that may be lurking in it, and the transmission (in this case) is not wearing out prematurely, it's not been too hot in there or frozen and you've not dumped, oh, brake cleaner in it, you can probably leave it in there for...
...well, 10-15 years is a good number. 100K is probably the max I'd run on the fluid.
So you're about timed out I think. We talkin' an auto or a manual? Manual is easy-ish. Auto is... well, I'm hirin' someone with a machine and lettin' them do the filters.
Also, fluids are cheap. Transmissions aren't. So there's that.
/I'd also do the rear end gear oil at the same-ish time.
Oil is recycled because it generally doesn't break down unless you really mess it up with the heat or it's attacked chemically. And even then the old and literally busted oil can be useful in recycling. They re-refine the used oils (all of them, that's why you can dump everything into the one container and ship it to the recycler like they do in the big shops) and the oil they wind up making with the used oil is the same or even better than the original refined oils. What is broken down/old and busted 'oil' won't float to the same levels as the oils desired in the fractionating process, and you get the same oil as you would from fresh crude, clean and water free.
All that to say as long as it comes up to temperature to drive out the water that may be lurking in it, and the transmission (in this case) is not wearing out prematurely, it's not been too hot in there or frozen and you've not dumped, oh, brake cleaner in it, you can probably leave it in there for...
...well, 10-15 years is a good number. 100K is probably the max I'd run on the fluid.
So you're about timed out I think. We talkin' an auto or a manual? Manual is easy-ish. Auto is... well, I'm hirin' someone with a machine and lettin' them do the filters.
Also, fluids are cheap. Transmissions aren't. So there's that.
/I'd also do the rear end gear oil at the same-ish time.
#5
Legacy TMS Member
Join Date: January 25, 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 3,849
Received 1,573 Likes
on
1,078 Posts
yeah, I would change them all out too ... but don't stress if it takes a while
#6
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
There's a very good reason for following the recommended maintenance schedules...
Check Frequently:
60,000-Mile Service: This should be about five years for most drivers. And if it’s a newer Ford vehicle, this is a turning point for your vehicle due to the fact your factory Ford Drivetrain Warranty has now expired. Don’t fret, though! Making sure you’re performing all the proper maintenance for your Mustang will ensure longevity and long-lasting performance.
In addition to the 30,000-Mile Service, you’ll want to inspect/replace these items:
100,000-Mile Service: Congratulations! You and your Mustang made it to the 100,000 mile mark! By this point, you’ve probably got the hang of all the proper maintenance to keep your Pony in tip-top shape.
Be sure to check these items in addition to the 30,000 and 60,000 mile services:
RECOMMENDED MUSTANG MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
Some components of your Mustang will need frequent checks to stay in optimum conditions. Others you'll need to check only very rarely, and those are the ones that people tend to forget. Keep a checklist of maintenance checks in your glove box and record the odometer reading for each check. This checklist is a great place to get started.Check Frequently:
- Dashboard Indicator Lights On
- Lights
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Windshield Washer Fluid
- Engine Oil Level
- Battery and Cables
- Belts
- Dashboard Indicator Light On
- Engine Air Filter
- Engine Oil
- Exhaust
- Hoses
- Lights
- Power Steering Fluid
- Tire Inflation and Condition
- Transmission Fluid
- Windshield Washer Fluid
- Battery and Cables
- Belts
- Chassis Lubrication
- Dashboard Indicator Light On
- Engine Air Filter
- Engine Oil
- Exhaust
- Hoses
- Lights
- Power Steering Fluid
- Tire Inflation, Condition & Rotation
- Transmission Fluid
- Windshield Washer Fluid
- Wiper Blades
- Spark Plugs (For Turbo/Supercharged Cars Only)
MAJOR SERVICE INTERVALS
15,000-Mile Service: After owning your car for roughly a year depending on your driving style, your first major service will come at 15,000 miles. Since your car is still relatively new, there really aren’t many things to go over on top of the regular service intervals. In addition to what you would typically inspect on your regular oil changes, be sure the check the items below:- Inspect Engine Air Filter, Replace/Recharge As Needed
- Inspect and Replace Cabin Air Filter, As Needed
- Inspect and Replace Windshield Wipers, As Needed
- Inspect Wheel Alignment, Adjust As Needed
- Replace/Recharge Engine Air Filter, If Needed
- Replace Cabin Air Filter, If Needed
- Mechanic May Recommend to Replace Fuel Filter
- Check Transmission Fluid, Flush If Needed
- Check Power Steering Fluid, Flush If Needed.
- Inspect Spark Plugs, Replace If Needed. (Naturally aspirated cars only; forced induction should be checked every 10,000 miles).
60,000-Mile Service: This should be about five years for most drivers. And if it’s a newer Ford vehicle, this is a turning point for your vehicle due to the fact your factory Ford Drivetrain Warranty has now expired. Don’t fret, though! Making sure you’re performing all the proper maintenance for your Mustang will ensure longevity and long-lasting performance.
In addition to the 30,000-Mile Service, you’ll want to inspect/replace these items:
- Inspect All Belts, Replace as Needed.
- Inspect All Hoses, Replace as Needed.
- Inspect Brake Pads/Rotors and Brake Fluid, Replace as Needed.
- Inspect Timing Belt, Replace as Needed.
- Inspect HVAC Components.
100,000-Mile Service: Congratulations! You and your Mustang made it to the 100,000 mile mark! By this point, you’ve probably got the hang of all the proper maintenance to keep your Pony in tip-top shape.
Be sure to check these items in addition to the 30,000 and 60,000 mile services:
- Inspect accessory drive belt(s); replace as needed.
- Replace spark plugs
The following 5 users liked this post by NC14GT:
Bert (2/10/23),
m05fastbackGT (2/12/23),
shaneyusa (2/10/23),
Siber Express (2/10/23),
wanted33 (2/14/23)
The following 3 users liked this post by Siber Express:
#9
2013 RR Boss 302 #2342
Join Date: March 6, 2012
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 11,804
Likes: 0
Received 2,314 Likes
on
1,725 Posts
So my Boss is 10.5 years old now and I've only ever replaced the oil. She's got 25k on her so should I replace all the fluids?
#10
The Analog Admin!
Join Date: November 27, 2004
Location: Visalia Ca.
Posts: 10,901
Received 3,157 Likes
on
2,311 Posts
Convince Me I'm Wrong!
All This Talk and I'm Thinking My 07 With 34K Needs Em All! Especially for the Last New Car I will Ever Buy!
Took a Little Ride in Mine Today with a Friend, 500hp Still Gets the Pulse Going Just Fine! Top of Second Gear the Tires Lose Grip and 3rd Gear you are Quickly in Triple Digits. Or So I've Been told!
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 2/11/23 at 06:45 PM.
#11
Gotta Have it Green Fanatic Official TMS Travel Guide
Definitely the coolant, and especially the brake fluid. I know a lot of these modern brake fluids are meant to last a bit longer than the 'old' 2 year hygroscopic type, but 10+ years is getting to be really pushing it IMO. When I bought my '14 (only 8,800 miles) this past August it was the first fluid I changed when I got home (oil was changed by selling dealer). Old brake fluid is inviting problems. It's long gone.
The following 2 users liked this post by NC14GT:
m05fastbackGT (2/12/23),
wanted33 (2/14/23)
#12
2013 RR Boss 302 #2342
Join Date: March 6, 2012
Location: Lancaster, PA
Posts: 11,804
Likes: 0
Received 2,314 Likes
on
1,725 Posts
Originally Posted by NC14GT
Definitely the coolant, and especially the brake fluid. I know a lot of these modern brake fluids are meant to last a bit longer than the 'old' 2 year hygroscopic type, but 10+ years is getting to be really pushing it IMO. When I bought my '14 (only 8,800 miles) this past August it was the first fluid I changed when I got home (oil was changed by selling dealer). Old brake fluid is inviting problems. It's long gone.
#13
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Definitely the coolant, and especially the brake fluid. I know a lot of these modern brake fluids are meant to last a bit longer than the 'old' 2 year hygroscopic type, but 10+ years is getting to be really pushing it IMO. When I bought my '14 (only 8,800 miles) this past August it was the first fluid I changed when I got home (oil was changed by selling dealer). Old brake fluid is inviting problems. It's long gone.
#14
Legacy TMS Member
I changed my coolant at 40,000 and will do it again this year when I do my water pump that was leaking and then stopped leaking so I let it ride a little longer.
Brake fluid was done when I put the Brembos on the car at 60,000 so my brake fluid is 4 years and 20,000 miles so it is about due.
I will do the trans and rear end since they met the 10 year max before the miles on the car.
Brake fluid was done when I put the Brembos on the car at 60,000 so my brake fluid is 4 years and 20,000 miles so it is about due.
I will do the trans and rear end since they met the 10 year max before the miles on the car.
The following 2 users liked this post by Siber Express:
m05fastbackGT (2/12/23),
wanted33 (2/14/23)
#15
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: February 26, 2012
Location: Down south in Dixie
Posts: 2,204
Received 390 Likes
on
287 Posts
I think the only thing I'll do myself is the tranny fluid. Mainly because I don't trust anyone else to follow the guidlines of 3.2 quarts. The rest I'll just farm out mainly because I just don't want to mess with it, and secondly there are some I don't know how to change, i.e. brakes, power steering. Now, with my trusted mechanic retiring, I have to find another one I can trust. And as you know those kind of mechanics are few, and far between.
#16
The Analog Admin!
Join Date: November 27, 2004
Location: Visalia Ca.
Posts: 10,901
Received 3,157 Likes
on
2,311 Posts
I think the only thing I'll do myself is the tranny fluid. Mainly because I don't trust anyone else to follow the guidlines of 3.2 quarts. The rest I'll just farm out mainly because I just don't want to mess with it, and secondly there are some I don't know how to change, i.e. brakes, power steering. Now, with my trusted mechanic retiring, I have to find another one I can trust. And as you know those kind of mechanics are few, and far between.
KC
The following users liked this post:
wanted33 (2/16/23)
#17
Shelby GT350 Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: February 26, 2012
Location: Down south in Dixie
Posts: 2,204
Received 390 Likes
on
287 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post