GEN 1 coyote cam change question
1/1/21, 03:11 PM
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GEN 1 coyote cam change question
Hey guys, I've lurked for a while to try to learn. First post. I have a 2014 F-150 5.0 that I am trying to prep for a swap. I just completed the mustang intake cam swap and everything went great (or at least I thought) until I spun the engine.
First off, I don't know what I don't know, so hopefully this is a dumb question.
Second, I followed all the procedures to the T
Drivers side first
Crank key at 0900
Cams positioned as instructions state (hard to describe but phaser dowel position key)
Single dark link on exhaust, double on intake
L on top, primary chain on L timing mark and crank timing mark
Anyway you guys get the idea, swapped over to crank to 12 o'clock. repeated all steps.
Verified all 8 timing marks were aligned, then pulled the pins on the tensioners. Re-verified all 8 timing marks after the tensioners regained tension.
HERE IS MY CONCERN!!!!!!
Again, I have never worked on a 4 cam engine.
Everything looked great, just as a double check I spun the engine by the crank bolt to double check things before I buttoned everything up. I "ASSUMED" I would need 4 full crank revolutions to get back to a timed position. Not so much......
So I spun the engine by hand for what felt like a 100 revolutions. Never could get all 8 marks lined up again. My only good news is when the crank timing marks line up with the dark link of the chain, it aligns / timed for both left and right banks.
The other bit of good news is when the intake and exhaust cams secondary chain (sorry, don't know the right terminology) finally align back to the timing marks and dark links of the chain, it is showing timed for both left and right banks.
What I think is the bad news, I have yet to get to a point that both the crank to cam chain and intake to exhaust cam chain is timed. I am hoping the rotation of the crank 90 degrees from 0900 to 1200 before tying in the passenger side valve train is the reason, but again I don't know what I don't know.
The engine spun very freely, zero metal to metal contact , aka valve to piston. I guess the real short question to this long winded explanation is there anything I can check without disassembling things to make sure I did it right???
First off, I don't know what I don't know, so hopefully this is a dumb question.
Second, I followed all the procedures to the T
Drivers side first
Crank key at 0900
Cams positioned as instructions state (hard to describe but phaser dowel position key)
Single dark link on exhaust, double on intake
L on top, primary chain on L timing mark and crank timing mark
Anyway you guys get the idea, swapped over to crank to 12 o'clock. repeated all steps.
Verified all 8 timing marks were aligned, then pulled the pins on the tensioners. Re-verified all 8 timing marks after the tensioners regained tension.
HERE IS MY CONCERN!!!!!!
Again, I have never worked on a 4 cam engine.
Everything looked great, just as a double check I spun the engine by the crank bolt to double check things before I buttoned everything up. I "ASSUMED" I would need 4 full crank revolutions to get back to a timed position. Not so much......
So I spun the engine by hand for what felt like a 100 revolutions. Never could get all 8 marks lined up again. My only good news is when the crank timing marks line up with the dark link of the chain, it aligns / timed for both left and right banks.
The other bit of good news is when the intake and exhaust cams secondary chain (sorry, don't know the right terminology) finally align back to the timing marks and dark links of the chain, it is showing timed for both left and right banks.
What I think is the bad news, I have yet to get to a point that both the crank to cam chain and intake to exhaust cam chain is timed. I am hoping the rotation of the crank 90 degrees from 0900 to 1200 before tying in the passenger side valve train is the reason, but again I don't know what I don't know.
The engine spun very freely, zero metal to metal contact , aka valve to piston. I guess the real short question to this long winded explanation is there anything I can check without disassembling things to make sure I did it right???
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