dyegsitsw

Hello.

I have a 2006 V6 Ford Mustang and I was trying to install a new stereo for bluetooth purposes. After removing the original stereo and installing the new one, the car operated perfectly fine but the stereo would not turn on. I removed the car's battery and tested the stereo (with all of the speaker connections still attached) with the battery by connecting the stereo's 12v constant and accessory wire together with the positive terminal of the battery and the ground wire of the stereo to the negative terminal of the battery. The stereo turned on.

From there I reinstalled the battery to the car and now the car does not detect the battery at all: no lights come on when the ignition is halfway turned, and no cranking or clicking when the ignition is fully turned, even after installing a new battery.

After running a parasitic draw test, I found the Front Amplifier (Shaker 500) fuse location has a massive draw that my multimeter cannot read and it makes the multimeter wires really hot. Is it possible for the amp to have a short such that the flow of electricity is completely interrupted? And what can I do to find the problem and fix it from here? I am trying to DIY this.

Thanks!

m05fastbackGT

I would suggest wiring the connections back to where they were originally, and then run another parasitic draw test on the shaker 500's front amplifier.. If there's still a massive current draw? you'll then know for certain there's a short in the front amplifier.. If there is no massive current draw, you can then rule out the front amp and would then contact the vendor you purchased the aftermarket stereo from and inform them about the issues your experiencing..

They should at the very least provide you with some troubleshooting steps in helping resolve the issues.. If the troubleshooting steps do not resolve the issue, then I would suggest you request having the unit replaced for incompatibility reasons.. Meanwhile, I hope you find the info provided as useful, and also welcome aboard.

Bert

is there a master fuse or breaker on the positive battery cable? I am not sure . . . but if there is, then maybe it is popping and that is why there is no power getting to anything?

these "old" cars do not need to "detect" or "recognize" the battery -- they either get the 12V power from the battery that they need, or they don't . . . and if they don't, it's something basic like the cables are not connected well enough, or the chassis ground is not making a good connection, or a fuse/breaker is blown