Post disappearing?
9/18/23, 04:28 PM
#1
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Post disappearing?
Howdy mods, everyone...
themustangsource.com/forums/f637/dead-battery-kind-long-458833/index4/#post6917899
This post which I have earmarked in my bookmarks as The Amelioration (the way to prevent, or at least reduce severely the amount and short times of battery/alternator failure in the S197 platforms, or at least so far as I've found in the years since I did that on my '06...), and if you search for it in the forums you'll find I linked to it quite frequently, has gone awol, near as I can tell.
I can't find the topic "dead battery kind of long" or even just "dead battery".
What has happened to it? Any answers?
I'm wondering if I can get it back via the Wayback Machine, but it's really good information, I thought...
I use other links such as The Method and The Procedure when they come up and reference other Mustang people here that way as a sneaky 'check it out!' thing, so... this one disappearing is quite unfortunate, frankly.
So any help on gettin' The Amelioration back up would be nifty and greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Edit: Found it on Google with the cache option. Keyword: "nopink"
https://webcache.googleusercontent.c...&ct=clnk&gl=us
In case that helps.
themustangsource.com/forums/f637/dead-battery-kind-long-458833/index4/#post6917899
This post which I have earmarked in my bookmarks as The Amelioration (the way to prevent, or at least reduce severely the amount and short times of battery/alternator failure in the S197 platforms, or at least so far as I've found in the years since I did that on my '06...), and if you search for it in the forums you'll find I linked to it quite frequently, has gone awol, near as I can tell.
I can't find the topic "dead battery kind of long" or even just "dead battery".
What has happened to it? Any answers?
I'm wondering if I can get it back via the Wayback Machine, but it's really good information, I thought...
I use other links such as The Method and The Procedure when they come up and reference other Mustang people here that way as a sneaky 'check it out!' thing, so... this one disappearing is quite unfortunate, frankly.
So any help on gettin' The Amelioration back up would be nifty and greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Edit: Found it on Google with the cache option. Keyword: "nopink"
https://webcache.googleusercontent.c...&ct=clnk&gl=us
In case that helps.
Last edited by houtex; 9/18/23 at 04:44 PM.
9/18/23, 08:48 PM
#2
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Join Date: November 27, 2004
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In an Effort to Clean up Forums For Various Reasons a Search Report Using Certain Key Words Will Pick up The Desired Threads. It's Not 100% And Takes Some That are Not Necessarly Needing to Be Moved and Also Not Taking Some That Should Have Gone. Thousands Have Been Moved over The Last Couple of Weeks! Your Thread Was Pulled.
It Appears you Have Access to the Value Part of The Thread Which is the Battery Cleaning. I Would Suggest a Cut & Paste From Google Page as I Have Done and A Retitle Something along the Lines of EXTREME BATTERY CLEANING and a New Post. At This Point You Can Relink To Your Other Posts! Put in General Mustang Chat as All Years Have Batteries! After Posting I Can Put a Sticky on It!
Or Do An End All Get All Thread on The Entire Charging System For The S197 Something Along the Lines of Your Spark Plug Thread. There That's The Ticket! I Retitled The Fuel Tank Fill Topic and Put a Sticky on it! Your Charging or Battery Topic Could Go There if Like!
Thank You!
KC
NICE!
---
Secondly, get rid of the Motorcrap battery. Right off. I happen to be running the upper tier O'Reilly battery at the moment, and it's been a good battery.
(Edit: WAAAY after this was posted, I've done more research. There's no point in getting any this or that particular battery, except maybe the red top optimas or whatever. Go to Walmart, or equivalent cheapest correct sized battery. Getting more CCA doesn't matter, unless it does for cold. They're all the same manufacturers, and there's no escaping the problem of batteries dying in these things. It's just going to happen. So might as well save money and get the same Johnson Controls (or whatever they're new name is now) battery that Ford, Autozone and O'Reillys sells. Because it's exactly the same one, just a sticker slapped on that says 'EverStart.'
)
Also go invest in a lifetime ownership warranty alternator. Again, mine's at O'Reilly. Do these at near to the same time.
And then get 10 other items: Big towel you do not care to use anymore, but clean. Stiff nylon brush. That de-acidizer that turns pink or yellow depending on if there's battery acid. A bucket that's sorta battery sized. A small pick or screwdriver. Battery washers. A tube of dielectric grease (or quite a few of those packets, the tube is easier though.) A battery cleaning tool (I like the + shaped one with the ****, myself, but (Edit, I no longer like that one, takes off too much material) but that other one with the bristles and maw is ok too.) Some semi-fine wet-or-dry sandpaper (like 320 grit). And a kitchen scrubby sponge.
Remove the battery. Remove the battery tray (Note: the bolts will probably be very rusty and require patience and penetrant, in reverse order) and if equipped the blanket. De-occupy everything battery/tray.
Get your bucket full of water, stick the scrubbie in it.
Spray the battery area of the engine compartment with the de-acidizer spray that turns pink or yellow. I wanna say pink is bad. Whatever the bad color is, scrub the area, rinse, repeat, replacing the water in the bucket a lot. I used the 'spray, scrub, rinse using scrub, dump water ('cause the bucket fits nice in the battery compartment) repeat until nopink is achieved.
Resuface the terminals of the battery with the cleaning tool. Then do the deacid treatment with on the battery. Even if new. *All sides.* Yes, even the bottom. No. Freaking. Pink. (Note: Be mindful of the vent, and don't let acid spill out of the battery, nor let anything in the battery.)
Ditto the tray and all hardware. We are on a mission(tm) to eradicate the acid that has been accumulated lest it cause problems again.
Now, put the towel in the battery area to protect from the next step. Also put a clean bucket of water in that area.
Attack the terminals. Negative first, that's easy. Shouldn't be bad.
Then the positive. This is where the stiff brush and the pick/small screwdriver are being implemented. Scrape, scrape, SCRAPE the corrosion off that thing. Spray it with the stuff, let it sit, but while sitting... scrape scrape scrape... Rinse... spray... scrape scrape scrape...
Repeat. A LOT. This is probably your most time consuming thing to do regarding the battery issue. But be as absolutely throrough about it. You don't want any corrosion left. There are places you can't reach. Just do your very level best and be real 'picky' about it.
Once you get that dang terminal nopinked and de-corroded, sand it where you can, and rinse it good. Resurface the inside with the cleaning tool, rinse again.
Respray and rinse off the battery compartment one more time after you get the terminals awesome.
---
With that, you have shiny, newly cleaned parts that will not cross contaminate any other parts.
Put the tray back in (I'd suggest getting antiseize on the threads of the hardware, by the way), put the battery back in, the holddown strap and the blanket.
Put the battery washers on.
Now. Take the positive cable. Slather on some dielectric grease on the bottom face, and NO WHERE ELSE. Put it on the terminal and tighten. NOW complete the slatherings, making sure the grease gets into the nooks and crannies of the terminal (this is where the tube comes in handy.)
Repeat the process on the negative cable.
DO NOT be tempted to clean/wipe any excess grease. You are sacrificing awesome looks for longevity of the connections (by not corroding) and the battery/charging system (by not being starved for power and draining the battery/can't send power in to the battery and killing the diodes in the alternator.)
Since I have done this method, my car has not had any repeat of the incidents. I did have a freakin' alternator clutch go out (who knew that was a thing) and replaced the alternator, but that's all.
Been... uh... two years now? No corrosion. Charging system just works now.
One thing, though, the battery being gone is going to cause the car to forget about the throttle body dirtiness adjustments, so it would be wise to take that off and clean it as well before you put the battery back in, so the car has a fresh start on its programming.
In case that helps anyone.
Oh, and lemme leave with this
It Appears you Have Access to the Value Part of The Thread Which is the Battery Cleaning. I Would Suggest a Cut & Paste From Google Page as I Have Done and A Retitle Something along the Lines of EXTREME BATTERY CLEANING and a New Post. At This Point You Can Relink To Your Other Posts! Put in General Mustang Chat as All Years Have Batteries! After Posting I Can Put a Sticky on It!
Or Do An End All Get All Thread on The Entire Charging System For The S197 Something Along the Lines of Your Spark Plug Thread. There That's The Ticket! I Retitled The Fuel Tank Fill Topic and Put a Sticky on it! Your Charging or Battery Topic Could Go There if Like!
Thank You!
KC
NICE!
---
(Edit: WAAAY after this was posted, I've done more research. There's no point in getting any this or that particular battery, except maybe the red top optimas or whatever. Go to Walmart, or equivalent cheapest correct sized battery. Getting more CCA doesn't matter, unless it does for cold. They're all the same manufacturers, and there's no escaping the problem of batteries dying in these things. It's just going to happen. So might as well save money and get the same Johnson Controls (or whatever they're new name is now) battery that Ford, Autozone and O'Reillys sells. Because it's exactly the same one, just a sticker slapped on that says 'EverStart.'
)Also go invest in a lifetime ownership warranty alternator. Again, mine's at O'Reilly. Do these at near to the same time.
And then get 10 other items: Big towel you do not care to use anymore, but clean. Stiff nylon brush. That de-acidizer that turns pink or yellow depending on if there's battery acid. A bucket that's sorta battery sized. A small pick or screwdriver. Battery washers. A tube of dielectric grease (or quite a few of those packets, the tube is easier though.) A battery cleaning tool (
Remove the battery. Remove the battery tray (Note: the bolts will probably be very rusty and require patience and penetrant, in reverse order) and if equipped the blanket. De-occupy everything battery/tray.
Get your bucket full of water, stick the scrubbie in it.
Spray the battery area of the engine compartment with the de-acidizer spray that turns pink or yellow. I wanna say pink is bad. Whatever the bad color is, scrub the area, rinse, repeat, replacing the water in the bucket a lot. I used the 'spray, scrub, rinse using scrub, dump water ('cause the bucket fits nice in the battery compartment) repeat until nopink is achieved.
Resuface the terminals of the battery with the cleaning tool. Then do the deacid treatment with on the battery. Even if new. *All sides.* Yes, even the bottom. No. Freaking. Pink. (Note: Be mindful of the vent, and don't let acid spill out of the battery, nor let anything in the battery.)
Ditto the tray and all hardware. We are on a mission(tm) to eradicate the acid that has been accumulated lest it cause problems again.
Now, put the towel in the battery area to protect from the next step. Also put a clean bucket of water in that area.
Attack the terminals. Negative first, that's easy. Shouldn't be bad.
Then the positive. This is where the stiff brush and the pick/small screwdriver are being implemented. Scrape, scrape, SCRAPE the corrosion off that thing. Spray it with the stuff, let it sit, but while sitting... scrape scrape scrape... Rinse... spray... scrape scrape scrape...
Repeat. A LOT. This is probably your most time consuming thing to do regarding the battery issue. But be as absolutely throrough about it. You don't want any corrosion left. There are places you can't reach. Just do your very level best and be real 'picky' about it.
Once you get that dang terminal nopinked and de-corroded, sand it where you can, and rinse it good. Resurface the inside with the cleaning tool, rinse again.
Respray and rinse off the battery compartment one more time after you get the terminals awesome.
---
With that, you have shiny, newly cleaned parts that will not cross contaminate any other parts.
Put the tray back in (I'd suggest getting antiseize on the threads of the hardware, by the way), put the battery back in, the holddown strap and the blanket.
Put the battery washers on.
Now. Take the positive cable. Slather on some dielectric grease on the bottom face, and NO WHERE ELSE. Put it on the terminal and tighten. NOW complete the slatherings, making sure the grease gets into the nooks and crannies of the terminal (this is where the tube comes in handy.)
Repeat the process on the negative cable.
DO NOT be tempted to clean/wipe any excess grease. You are sacrificing awesome looks for longevity of the connections (by not corroding) and the battery/charging system (by not being starved for power and draining the battery/can't send power in to the battery and killing the diodes in the alternator.)
Since I have done this method, my car has not had any repeat of the incidents. I did have a freakin' alternator clutch go out (who knew that was a thing) and replaced the alternator, but that's all.
Been... uh... two years now? No corrosion. Charging system just works now.
One thing, though, the battery being gone is going to cause the car to forget about the throttle body dirtiness adjustments, so it would be wise to take that off and clean it as well before you put the battery back in, so the car has a fresh start on its programming.
In case that helps anyone.
Oh, and lemme leave with this
9/19/23, 04:50 PM
#3
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