All things Photography
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Panning takes a lot practice so you have to get out there and shoot cars as they drive by, it might look silly, but a highway or busy main road is an ideal practice ground, you are likely to get some strange looks, but panning takes practice. There are no short cuts when it comes to shooting great looking panning shots.
A basic panning shot is simple, put your camera on Shutter priority AE (Tv on a Canon EOS) and dial in a shutter speed of 1/320 or 1/250 depending on the speed of the car you would like to shoot, don't be tempted to dial in 1/60 or even slower, if the car is doing normal speeds you will not get many images sharp enough and it could discourage you from continuing. Put the camera on 'Focus tracking' mode (AIServo on a Canon) so it 'tracks' the subject while it passes, and set the iso to 100 on a normal, sunny day, leave the rest of the settings to standard for now. Next find a nice spot that has a clear view of the cars as they approach, while they are in front of you and while speeding away. This is very important as you'll be 'following' the car with your camera as it races by; this is panning in case you've missed it.
Basic steps:
1. Get the car in the frame as it approaches
2. Start following the car, keeping it in position inside your viewfinder
3. Press the shutter half way to focus on the car, keep 'tracking' it
4. When the car is in the position directly in front of you, take the shot by gently pressing the shutter release, don't stop following the car !
5. Finish your swing by following the car as it disappears in the distance
A basic panning shot is simple, put your camera on Shutter priority AE (Tv on a Canon EOS) and dial in a shutter speed of 1/320 or 1/250 depending on the speed of the car you would like to shoot, don't be tempted to dial in 1/60 or even slower, if the car is doing normal speeds you will not get many images sharp enough and it could discourage you from continuing. Put the camera on 'Focus tracking' mode (AIServo on a Canon) so it 'tracks' the subject while it passes, and set the iso to 100 on a normal, sunny day, leave the rest of the settings to standard for now. Next find a nice spot that has a clear view of the cars as they approach, while they are in front of you and while speeding away. This is very important as you'll be 'following' the car with your camera as it races by; this is panning in case you've missed it.
Basic steps:
1. Get the car in the frame as it approaches
2. Start following the car, keeping it in position inside your viewfinder
3. Press the shutter half way to focus on the car, keep 'tracking' it
4. When the car is in the position directly in front of you, take the shot by gently pressing the shutter release, don't stop following the car !
5. Finish your swing by following the car as it disappears in the distance
Last edited by bjbsav; Aug 15, 2014 at 10:36 AM.
Cobra Member
Joined: January 4, 2013
Posts: 1,418
Likes: 118
From: Frisco, TX
Thanks Ben. I knew you would be able to give a better explanation. I took a class once and we found a spot above and alongside a freeway for panning practice. Our instructor had us play around with zoom for different effects like this one. Sorry, I can't get rid of the the link.
Last edited by tukatz; Aug 15, 2014 at 01:03 PM.
Bullitt Member
Joined: November 26, 2013
Posts: 341
Likes: 7
From: Texas
Anyone into DSLR filming? I've been messing around with it lately, and am finding it to be extremely interesting, and something I can build around along with my actual photography, which is pretty crappy.
I ordered a new manfrotto tripod with both a Ball Head and a Fluid Head along with a shotgun microphone to play with, instead of purchasing a Canon 100m Macro f/2.8L that I've been eyeing for some time.
Now I just have to get much more acclimated to Adobe Products, as I can use them at a basic level but anything advanced is above me. I've been watching a bunch of tutorials and similar trying to understand them better.
I ordered a new manfrotto tripod with both a Ball Head and a Fluid Head along with a shotgun microphone to play with, instead of purchasing a Canon 100m Macro f/2.8L that I've been eyeing for some time.
Now I just have to get much more acclimated to Adobe Products, as I can use them at a basic level but anything advanced is above me. I've been watching a bunch of tutorials and similar trying to understand them better.
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
I know that i posted these in the what are you doing thread but here are a few from this week. More to come tomorrow.
Cayla by benbrengman, on Flickr
Cayla by benbrengman, on Flickr
Cayla2 by benbrengman, on Flickr
Cayla by benbrengman, on Flickr
Cayla by benbrengman, on Flickr
Cayla2 by benbrengman, on Flickr
Last edited by bjbsav; Aug 22, 2014 at 11:37 AM.
Member
Joined: August 22, 2014
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Syracuse, NY
Panning is fun and a great skill to learn for photographing moving cars. I wrote up a tutorial called The Art of Panning (Click to read)
For race cars, I usually start at 1/125 for the shutter speed. That usually gives you a good motion photo without freezing the wheels. Like this:
Here are some more examples:
1/125s
1/125s
1/80s (not just for cars, either)
For race cars, I usually start at 1/125 for the shutter speed. That usually gives you a good motion photo without freezing the wheels. Like this:
Here are some more examples:
1/125s
1/125s
1/80s (not just for cars, either)
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Panning is fun and a great skill to learn for photographing moving cars. I wrote up a tutorial called The Art of Panning (Click to read)
For race cars, I usually start at 1/125 for the shutter speed. That usually gives you a good motion photo without freezing the wheels. Like this:
Here are some more examples:
1/125s
1/125s
1/80s (not just for cars, either)
For race cars, I usually start at 1/125 for the shutter speed. That usually gives you a good motion photo without freezing the wheels. Like this:
Here are some more examples:
1/125s
1/125s
1/80s (not just for cars, either)
Cobra Member
Joined: May 8, 2014
Posts: 1,466
Likes: 14
I know that i posted these in the what are you doing thread but here are a few from this week. More to come tomorrow. Cayla by benbrengman, on Flickr Cayla by benbrengman, on Flickr Cayla2 by benbrengman, on Flickr
Bullitt Member
Joined: September 30, 2013
Posts: 325
Likes: 5
From: Savannah, GA
Today's work.
Miriam by benbrengman, on Flickr
Miriam by benbrengman, on Flickr
IMG_6957 by benbrengman, on Flickr
Miriam by benbrengman, on Flickr
Miriam by benbrengman, on Flickr
IMG_6957 by benbrengman, on Flickr
Member
Joined: August 22, 2014
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Syracuse, NY
GT Member
Joined: March 17, 2014
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: Texas
I've never done a moving shot but from what i can guess. You need to shoot with a slower shutter speed. Focus on the car and don't move the camera at all when taking the picture. Make sure you change the focus point, thats what could have messed up the picture for you.
you're looking at maybe a 1/5 second shutter speed,
you're looking at maybe a 1/5 second shutter speed,
I was hoping the pro would answer this one, but let me take a shot. The result you describe must have come from keeping the camera still. That would give you a crisp background but the moving car would be a blur. If you want the opposite effect with the car crisp and the background blurred to give the sense of motion you need to pan - that is move the camera keeping it pointed at the car as it moves. If your shutter speed is too slow everything will be blurred. If it is too fast everything will be crisp. So you want shutter speed priority and I'm guessing about 1/125. You could also try it at 1/60. There is a sweet spot where the car is crisp but its wheels are not. I'm just not sure what that speed would be.
Panning takes a lot practice so you have to get out there and shoot cars as they drive by, it might look silly, but a highway or busy main road is an ideal practice ground, you are likely to get some strange looks, but panning takes practice. There are no short cuts when it comes to shooting great looking panning shots.
By the way, great photos.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: April 3, 2012
Posts: 971
Likes: 144
From: Indy
Wow some really nice shots, looks like some of you guys have some good photography skills.
I am looking to get a couple of lenses in the next 6-9 months or so, and would like to get some input. My skill level is, Amateur/hobbyist. Still learning a lot. I currently have a Canon Rebel, it's been a good camera to learn on. I'll look to upgrade it sometime too, but that's another conversation. I do not plan on going full frame either.
I'm wanting to get a 70-200 f2.8 with IS(image stabilization), I've started researching the Sigma and Tamron, and they are priced in the range that I want to pay. I've rented the White lens and it is very nice; however, I dont want to pay the White lens price.
For you members who have used the Sigma or the Tamron 70-200. How do you like them, pros/cons, would you purchase anything different now that you've owned it? "I should have gotten the other brand". Or you should really save for the Great White beast.
2. I am wanting an ultra wide angle: 10-20, 10-22, and I'm intrigued by the Sigma 8-16 except for the fish eye look, would make using filters difficult. Same questions here. Looking at Sigma, Tamron, and Canon.
Thanks for any input.
I am looking to get a couple of lenses in the next 6-9 months or so, and would like to get some input. My skill level is, Amateur/hobbyist. Still learning a lot. I currently have a Canon Rebel, it's been a good camera to learn on. I'll look to upgrade it sometime too, but that's another conversation. I do not plan on going full frame either.
I'm wanting to get a 70-200 f2.8 with IS(image stabilization), I've started researching the Sigma and Tamron, and they are priced in the range that I want to pay. I've rented the White lens and it is very nice; however, I dont want to pay the White lens price.
For you members who have used the Sigma or the Tamron 70-200. How do you like them, pros/cons, would you purchase anything different now that you've owned it? "I should have gotten the other brand". Or you should really save for the Great White beast.
2. I am wanting an ultra wide angle: 10-20, 10-22, and I'm intrigued by the Sigma 8-16 except for the fish eye look, would make using filters difficult. Same questions here. Looking at Sigma, Tamron, and Canon.
Thanks for any input.