Strange Engine Noise
12/29/22, 10:53 PM
#1
Strange Engine Noise
I had this mechanic friend of mine change my spark plugs I made sure they were the correct gap prior, right after we changed them the car instantly had a misfire but no check engine light yet, he had the grand Idea too rev it hard multiple times 5000 rpm to see if that would fix it, I noticed he was an idiot at this point, he checked the plugs again and said they were fine and that he doesn't know what it could've been and left me to die basically saying it wasn't his fault I decided to drive slowly home and I had another mechanic come to my house and check it, the guy that did it before had left a little of anti seize right in between where the spark plug "sparks". We changed it out and everything was fine till two months later the car had been sitting in the garage and it started up weird with the cabin and dash lights flickering and when the car warmed up it started to make a new noise, I quickly revved it too 2000 rpm to get a better listen and now I am freaking out. VIDEOS BELLOW TO LISTEN.
12/29/22, 11:12 PM
#2
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Hello,
@enri3813
With the Noise & The Light Flickering First Guess is Alternator And or Belt Idler if Equipped. And Yes Revving to 5k on an Unloaded Engine is Very Bad! First Guy was Clueless! I think This Issue is Unrelated to Plugs. Removing Belt to See If Noise Goes Away would Eliminate it Being an Internal Engine Issue. With Belts Removed Could Also Check Everything Belt Driven For Binding.
Here is the Old School Way For Finding an Engine Noise. Just Need to Watch The Very Beginning!
Any Other Idea's Chime in!
This is a 05-09 V6 Correct??
KC
@enri3813
With the Noise & The Light Flickering First Guess is Alternator And or Belt Idler if Equipped. And Yes Revving to 5k on an Unloaded Engine is Very Bad! First Guy was Clueless! I think This Issue is Unrelated to Plugs. Removing Belt to See If Noise Goes Away would Eliminate it Being an Internal Engine Issue. With Belts Removed Could Also Check Everything Belt Driven For Binding.
Here is the Old School Way For Finding an Engine Noise. Just Need to Watch The Very Beginning!
Any Other Idea's Chime in!
This is a 05-09 V6 Correct??
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 12/29/22 at 11:22 PM.
The following users liked this post:
VGMStudios (12/30/22)
12/30/22, 04:42 PM
#3
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
I had this mechanic friend of mine change my spark plugs I made sure they were the correct gap prior, right after we changed them the car instantly had a misfire but no check engine light yet, he had the grand Idea too rev it hard multiple times 5000 rpm to see if that would fix it, I noticed he was an idiot at this point, he checked the plugs again and said they were fine and that he doesn't know what it could've been and left me to die basically saying it wasn't his fault I decided to drive slowly home and I had another mechanic come to my house and check it, the guy that did it before had left a little of anti seize right in between where the spark plug "sparks". We changed it out and everything was fine till two months later the car had been sitting in the garage and it started up weird with the cabin and dash lights flickering and when the car warmed up it started to make a new noise, I quickly revved it too 2000 rpm to get a better listen and now I am freaking out. VIDEOS BELLOW TO LISTEN.
As for your cabin and lights flickering along with the noises you described from 2 months later, I also agree with the post response below, as I would also suspect that it's either your alternator or belt tensioner as well which is responsible and would therefore consider having both thoroughly looked at ASAP....
In the meantime, hope the info provided is helpful and welcome aboard!
Hello,
@enri3813
With the Noise & The Light Flickering First Guess is Alternator And or Belt Idler if Equipped. And Yes Revving to 5k on an Unloaded Engine is Very Bad! First Guy was Clueless! I think This Issue is Unrelated to Plugs. Removing Belt to See If Noise Goes Away would Eliminate it Being an Internal Engine Issue. With Belts Removed Could Also Check Everything Belt Driven For Binding.
Here is the Old School Way For Finding an Engine Noise. Just Need to Watch The Very Beginning!
https://youtu.be/I5CnsccJhvA
Any Other Idea's Chime in!
This is a 05-09 V6 Correct??
KC
@enri3813
With the Noise & The Light Flickering First Guess is Alternator And or Belt Idler if Equipped. And Yes Revving to 5k on an Unloaded Engine is Very Bad! First Guy was Clueless! I think This Issue is Unrelated to Plugs. Removing Belt to See If Noise Goes Away would Eliminate it Being an Internal Engine Issue. With Belts Removed Could Also Check Everything Belt Driven For Binding.
Here is the Old School Way For Finding an Engine Noise. Just Need to Watch The Very Beginning!
https://youtu.be/I5CnsccJhvA
Any Other Idea's Chime in!
This is a 05-09 V6 Correct??
KC
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 12/30/22 at 05:08 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by m05fastbackGT:
enri3813 (12/31/22),
VGMStudios (12/30/22)
12/31/22, 06:21 AM
#4
This so called mechanic, friend of yours obviously has no real world knowledge nor experience when it comes to the 2005-2009 S197 Mustangs... Part of the reason for your car misfiring, is your friend applied nickel anti-seize directly onto the spark plug-ground electrodes... If only your friend had followed the recommended Ford TSB spark plug procedure? it clearly states to apply high temp, nickel anti-seize to only the ground electrode shield barrels, which are above the ground electrode straps, but never apply near the electrode straps and especially on the plug threads, as doing so will effect the accuracy of the torque values...
As for your cabin and lights flickering along with the noises you described from 2 months later, I also agree with the post response below, as I would also suspect that it's either your alternator or belt tensioner as well which is responsible and would therefore consider having both thoroughly looked at ASAP....
In the meantime, hope the info provided is helpful and welcome aboard!
As far as the OP's dash and lights flickering are concerned, I would also suspect the alternator as well... The noises from what was described by the OP appear to be from either the belt tensioner or idler pulley bearings going bad... I experienced those very same noises and discovered it was in fact the belt tensioner bearings that went bad.. Since replacing the belt tensioner, the noises have completely been eliminated...
As for your cabin and lights flickering along with the noises you described from 2 months later, I also agree with the post response below, as I would also suspect that it's either your alternator or belt tensioner as well which is responsible and would therefore consider having both thoroughly looked at ASAP....
In the meantime, hope the info provided is helpful and welcome aboard!
As far as the OP's dash and lights flickering are concerned, I would also suspect the alternator as well... The noises from what was described by the OP appear to be from either the belt tensioner or idler pulley bearings going bad... I experienced those very same noises and discovered it was in fact the belt tensioner bearings that went bad.. Since replacing the belt tensioner, the noises have completely been eliminated...
So as far as the shield barrels what would those look like , could someone put a picture of it, because I can’t seem to get a pic of it by looking it up im going to take out all the spark plugs and redo his job, also was the belt tensioner a hard job could I DIY it myself in my garage? Thank you guys for your input Im so far loving this forum. I also have a new edge that doesn’t have any issues right now with 156,000 miles which I am blessed with and I will most likely post other threads about that one as well!
12/31/22, 08:42 AM
#5
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So as far as the shield barrels what would those look like , could someone put a picture of it, because I can’t seem to get a pic of it by looking it up im going to take out all the spark plugs and redo his job, also was the belt tensioner a hard job could I DIY it myself in my garage? Thank you guys for your input Im so far loving this forum. I also have a new edge that doesn’t have any issues right now with 156,000 miles which I am blessed with and I will most likely post other threads about that one as well!
Belt & Spark Plug Info
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 12/31/22 at 08:56 AM.
12/31/22, 09:22 AM
#7
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I Used 2007 Shop Manual! Good Guess!
Car Sounds Ok At Idle. May not Need to Redo Plugs Unless Still Have Misfire after Inspecting Belt Driven Items.
It's Basic Stuff but Not Everybody Has The Knack. When People ask Can They Do It themselves we Never Know How Handy They are!
Get Er Done. If it Turns out to Be Valvetrain Noise That is a Another Ball Game! Hopefully Not!
Belt Tensioner / Belt Removal
Remember it Could also Be other Belt Driven Items as Well. Stationary Pulley would be Next Suspect. But if After Removing Belt Noise Goes away It's Somewhere in there. Run No More than a Couple of Minutes without Belt!
.
KC
Car Sounds Ok At Idle. May not Need to Redo Plugs Unless Still Have Misfire after Inspecting Belt Driven Items.
It's Basic Stuff but Not Everybody Has The Knack. When People ask Can They Do It themselves we Never Know How Handy They are!
Get Er Done. If it Turns out to Be Valvetrain Noise That is a Another Ball Game! Hopefully Not!
Belt Tensioner / Belt Removal
Remember it Could also Be other Belt Driven Items as Well. Stationary Pulley would be Next Suspect. But if After Removing Belt Noise Goes away It's Somewhere in there. Run No More than a Couple of Minutes without Belt!
KC
Last edited by 05stangkc; 12/31/22 at 09:34 AM.
12/31/22, 02:57 PM
#8
THE RED FLASH ------ Master-Moderator
Regardless of V8 or V6 spark plugs, you never apply anti-seize anywhere near the ground electrodes... Being that you have a V6 model, you have the traditional 12mm one-piece design spark plugs which don't include ground electrode shield barrels as the 2-piece design 16mm high thread spark plugs from the 2005-early 2008 V8 models which are prone to separating in the heads during spark plug extraction... Therefore, it is really unnecessary to apply nickel anti-seize for your particular application...
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