Cracked Rotor
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Cracked Rotor
Hi all,
I have a cracked rotor on the rear driver's side.
These are these rotors:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/powerstop-brake-kit-0510gt.html
The other three are just fine.
They are being taken care of under warranty, but I want to be sure there isn't anything about my vehicle that may have caused this. I don't want a repeat.
any thoughts?
thanks
I have a cracked rotor on the rear driver's side.
These are these rotors:
https://www.americanmuscle.com/powerstop-brake-kit-0510gt.html
The other three are just fine.
They are being taken care of under warranty, but I want to be sure there isn't anything about my vehicle that may have caused this. I don't want a repeat.
any thoughts?
thanks
#2
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Rotor Could Have Been Dropped Sometime in it's Life. During Packaging, Shipping Etc. I would Be Curious to See Rotor Off Car Both Sides, Pads, Caliper and Hub Mounting Surface to Conjecture anything else. How Many Miles on the Brakes and How Hard do You Use The Brakes?
KC
KC
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I'll be sure to go over it and examine everything closely when it's removed. I'll post up pictures of everything once it's disassembled.
As for driving, it's a daily driver. I do some spirited driving and braking from time to time for a little enjoyment, but nothing that would stress and heat cycle the brakes.
As for driving, it's a daily driver. I do some spirited driving and braking from time to time for a little enjoyment, but nothing that would stress and heat cycle the brakes.
#4
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Got to Thinking a Pebble Could have Got Lodged in there as Well!
KC
KC
#5
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looks like it was caused by the hole ... to avoid a repeat, buy rotors without holes ;-)
But seriously, there is little or no benefit to "drilled and slotted rotors" for a street car. Even for a track car, their benefit is dubious; mostly they make the pads wear faster and give a place for cracks to start. Unless you are going with the real high end rotors for a track or race car, just stick with the plain rotors. I do track my car and I use plain, non-slotted / non-drilled rotors, as do just about every other car I see on the track; except for the real high end ones that have the carbon rotors that cost about $5K each.
But seriously, there is little or no benefit to "drilled and slotted rotors" for a street car. Even for a track car, their benefit is dubious; mostly they make the pads wear faster and give a place for cracks to start. Unless you are going with the real high end rotors for a track or race car, just stick with the plain rotors. I do track my car and I use plain, non-slotted / non-drilled rotors, as do just about every other car I see on the track; except for the real high end ones that have the carbon rotors that cost about $5K each.
The following 4 users liked this post by Bert:
#6
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
looks like it was caused by the hole ... to avoid a repeat, buy rotors without holes ;-)
But seriously, there is little or no benefit to "drilled and slotted rotors" for a street car. Even for a track car, their benefit is dubious; mostly they make the pads wear faster and give a place for cracks to start. Unless you are going with the real high end rotors for a track or race car, just stick with the plain rotors. I do track my car and I use plain, non-slotted / non-drilled rotors, as do just about every other car I see on the track; except for the real high end ones that have the carbon rotors that cost about $5K each.
But seriously, there is little or no benefit to "drilled and slotted rotors" for a street car. Even for a track car, their benefit is dubious; mostly they make the pads wear faster and give a place for cracks to start. Unless you are going with the real high end rotors for a track or race car, just stick with the plain rotors. I do track my car and I use plain, non-slotted / non-drilled rotors, as do just about every other car I see on the track; except for the real high end ones that have the carbon rotors that cost about $5K each.
#7
THE RED FLASH ------Moderator
looks like it was caused by the hole ... to avoid a repeat, buy rotors without holes ;-)
But seriously, there is little or no benefit to "drilled and slotted rotors" for a street car. Even for a track car, their benefit is dubious; mostly they make the pads wear faster and give a place for cracks to start. Unless you are going with the real high end rotors for a track or race car, just stick with the plain rotors. I do track my car and I use plain, non-slotted / non-drilled rotors, as do just about every other car I see on the track; except for the real high end ones that have the carbon rotors that cost about $5K each.
But seriously, there is little or no benefit to "drilled and slotted rotors" for a street car. Even for a track car, their benefit is dubious; mostly they make the pads wear faster and give a place for cracks to start. Unless you are going with the real high end rotors for a track or race car, just stick with the plain rotors. I do track my car and I use plain, non-slotted / non-drilled rotors, as do just about every other car I see on the track; except for the real high end ones that have the carbon rotors that cost about $5K each.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, that's understandable on drilled and slotted rotors.
I bought them when I first got the car, as it needed new brakes, and these were American Muscle's performance brake kit.
It wasn't until later when I was researching brakes for someone else that I learned that drilled and slotted rotors have more problems than anything.
Right now, I'm just warrantying these out and will continue with them, since they're what I have (and the other 3 have no issues).
Next time, I'll be going with non drilled rotors.
Either way, I got the rotor off. Brake pads look fine, and there's nothing wrong with any of the rest of it. Looks like it was simply rotor failure.
I bought them when I first got the car, as it needed new brakes, and these were American Muscle's performance brake kit.
It wasn't until later when I was researching brakes for someone else that I learned that drilled and slotted rotors have more problems than anything.
Right now, I'm just warrantying these out and will continue with them, since they're what I have (and the other 3 have no issues).
Next time, I'll be going with non drilled rotors.
Either way, I got the rotor off. Brake pads look fine, and there's nothing wrong with any of the rest of it. Looks like it was simply rotor failure.
#9
THE RED FLASH ------Moderator
Knowing you purchased the rotor kit from American Muscle, just curious if the rotors are name-brand or some knock-off brand manufactured in China... Anyhow, just curious
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