Hubec

Hi all, I took my stock '06 GT to Shannonville motorsports park for a lapping day last Friday. This is a report on my experience with comments and advice for other road race Stang enthusiasts.

First off let me say that this car is a heck of a lot of fun and if it wasn't for one significant problem I am certain that stock for stock it could beat any other car within $10k around a road race course. I was getting a lot of compliments from officials, observers, and corner workers who enjoyed watching a very elegant muscle car slide and power itself around the corners. So here's the breakdown of it's performance.

Handling: Good. As long as you keep the wheels and tires stock you do not have to upgrade the suspension at all, it works perfectly just the way it is. I would advise against lowering the car even with the Ford performance kit because you will change the roll centre and you simply don't need to stiffen it up at all if you're using the stock 17" tire size. The only issue is that the car is setup to under steer so I am planning on addressing that directly with a slight increase to front camber and a stiffer rear sway bar.

Power: Good. The engine is a jewel. How Ford can produce such a lovely, compact engine that produces such tractable, accessible power for so little money is a mystery to me (and apparently all the German and Japanese manufacturers). And it burns 87 octane to boot! Of course it does burn a lot of fuel, I was on the track for about 3 hours, in that time the car burned through over 2.5 tanks of gas! I say good power and not great because the car is very heavy and can always use more power. Plus I'm a hooligan at heart and you can't power slide this car at a high enough speed for my preferences (one centri SC running at 6-8lbs with an air to air inter cooler coming up).

Brakes: Very Poor. Horrible. Go back to square one, do not pass go. Etc... The rear brake pad material began failing on the first lap (they could smell em all over the track), by the end of the day my rear pads were gone i.e. steel to steel. That's unacceptable, my car has just 5000miles on it I have NEVER done a burnout brake stand and the rear pads failed almost immediately after entering the track. I can only imagine that Ford used a very soft (crappy) pad material on the rears to ensure the bias will be forward even with the rear rotors so large. That's just my guess, but the fact is that you have to replace your pads with a more aggressive aftermarket offering (Hawk HPS or HP+) before even trying to run on the track. Additionally the brake fluid boiled, I suspect that this was due to too much heat being generated by the front brakes (3750lbs @ 100mph = way to much energy). A fellow driver had a pyrometer that confirmed that the fronts were WAY too hot, much hotter than the rears. To resolve this situation I'm going to try to build air ducts to sling cool air to the inside of the front brakes. If anyone knows of any S197 duct kits please let me know! Another solution would be to get a very large brake kit for the front, but I want to keep my stock wheels (and I don't want to spend $5000 on brakes and new wheels/tires).

If I can resolve the braking issue and get it a bit more tail happy this will be a fantastic track car. But even bone stock this is a wonderful car at the track and I encourage everyone to get out there and give it a go.

Comments, suggestions, and questions are welcome, anyone with similar experiences? What did you do about your brakes?

Lowe!

Very intereting review. I am looking to get into some open road racing in the future so I find this interesting. I don't plan to touch a track until I upgrade wheels and especially tires. The brake pad deal has me thinking I'll have to least switch them out before I get too serious about 110 avg. mph.

Tony Alonso

High speed road course driving in a Mustang generally necessitates an upgrade of the front braking system and using high temperature brake fluid. Most of the people I know who do this kind of performance driving change out rotors, pads, and brake lines. Autocross is usually OK with stock equipment, since the speeds are slower. Also, folks I know who are active road racers change the fluid and pads after thrashing for several hours (basically every session you do on track).

The downside of better pads could be increased brake dust and noise, depending on what you choose. However, if you are doing open track events regularly, it is a small price to pay for having brakes when you need to slow down from 80mph for a turn.

Good luck!

Gloves

Excellent assessment. it sounds like you had lots of fun!

I couldn't agree more that it doesn't need to be lowered.
I knew the breaks were crap but I didn't know they were
that bad!!! OMG! Keep us posted on your front brakes
air duct project.

kabuki104

Thank you for the heads up on the brakes! I'm heading to the Infineon Racetrack next week, and I just ordered new Hawk front and rear pads after reading your post.

Gloves

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(kabuki104 @ April 20, 2006, 4:03 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Thank you for the heads up on the brakes! I'm heading to the Infineon Racetrack next week, and I just ordered new Hawk front and rear pads after reading your post.
[/b][/quote]
WAIT WOA!!! INFINEON!@$!@!! used to be Sears Point Raceway? that Infeneon!?
Can I come? I live only about 1 hour away. Is there an event i don't konw about? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]

kabuki104

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Gloves @ April 20, 2006, 6:09 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
WAIT WOA!!! INFINEON!@$!@!! used to be Sears Point Raceway? that Infeneon!?
Can I come? I live only about 1 hour away. Is there an event i don't konw about? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]

Hahah! There is an Infineon corporate event or something going on, and I was very fortunate enough to be invited. I don't have the details, but I do know I'm getting to see what the pony can do!

SonicStanGirl

Funny you mention road racing and brakes. A friend of mine races SCCA and he and his brother recently rented two V6 stangs from Hertz and took them out for a track day. He reported that both stangs completely melted the brakes. One completely melted the pad to nothing (even the backing) down to the rotor and the other had no pad left just metal to the rotor. He is a chevy guy and was complaining how crappy the car was.... now I assumed that maybe the V6's had less in the brake area than a GT...but it seems like all in all our GTs need upgrades in the brake area for road racing/auto crossing.

Probably an area Ford saved money on....by giving us brakes adequate for regular driving and not for stopping repeatedly in a race or chase situation. IMO

hi5.0

Ford has traditionally been "stingy" in the braking performance department for most of their vehicles in terms of calipers, pad material, and rotor sizing. Understandable, given the corporate obsession with cost considerations and everyday streetability.
How about changing the flexible brake lines to braided steel versions? As for the brake ducting, see if there is anything for the SN95 that could work on your car... I think the FR500C's had part of the lower grille "mesh" removed (solid portions) removed to fit the ducts.

muscleman

I'm glad you posted this review because if I get a new Stang I want to track it. I dont understand what you said about now lowering the car though- I assumed that would be something that would really help in the corners.

Ben 06

Thats a really interesting report there. I've been dying to get out on a track. I'll probably just take my chances with the lame brakes. Here's the magic question. Anyone know a good track around Houston? Any leads would be great.

muscleman

I dont know Ben, but I defiintely would replace your brake pads atleast.

GRAYPNY

I'm heading off to high speed driving school next Thursday at Thunderhill in Willows, Ca. You have me alittle freaked out talking about the brakes like that. I also have the Roush rear springs in my car with about a 1 inch rerar drop and I am hoping that doesn't affect the balance going through the turns.

Original Sin

Nice writeup Josh but I'd like to hear more. You coming out with the GTA group on the 27th of May?? If not, then plan for it please. I've been wanting to get to Shannonville but a few tweaks are in order first. Anyways, get in touch if you can.

Thanks [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumb.gif[/img]

Mark

Hubec

Just to clear up a few points;

Lowering a car certainly can improve it's handling if done properly, but it can also mess it up. The car's suspension was designed to work properly at the stock ride height (linkage positions, spring rates, damper rates, bushing construction, etc). If you change the base height those other setting won't be optimal anymore. My experience on the track told me that I don't need to lower or stiffen the suspension because I'm really comfortably with the stock feel / controlability. AS LONG AS I don't get big, sticky tires.

I'm not planning on replacing the brake fluid right now because people have told me that the stock Ford fluid is very good with a 550f boiling point. The only available fluid that I've seen that's better is Motul 600 with a 593f boiling point which doesn't really seem like much of a difference, especially when there may be unintended downsides to using a non stock fluid. Am I off base? Does it make a big difference? Are there even better fluids?

Mark, I sent you an e-mail about that track day...

rhumb

Great review and very interesting! It's nice to see a non-dragstrip-centric perspective on the Stang's performance envelope as I have generally noticed the worlds roads are not all 1/4 mile long, straight, flat and smooth :-)

The brake system shortcomings have been a concern of mine due to various magazine reviews and your assessment does seem to reveal this to be a real and significant weakness in the Stang's performance envelope if engaging in performance driving more challenging than a 1/4 burb down the strip. My hope is that Ford will offer something akin to the GT500s system on other models (Boss, GT-350) or as an option of some sort (Track Pack?).

Nagman

I put on power slot rotors and hawk pads on the front only,huge improvement on the street,cant wait to try on the track one day soon.
Here is a link for brake ducting:
http://kennybrownparts.com/store/product_i...ea23416d0c6d254

wjones14

awesome review! thank you.

I would say though that the FR3 Ford Racing Parts handling/lowering kit was partly designed and built by Multimatics, who made the FR500 Boy Racer car. So I'm sure the car would be much more "race-like" with the kit installed. But I also agree the car handles great as is, for a stock daily driver.

I remember reading a post about the 3rd generation cars (1985-1993) on the track, and they had major cooling problems as well as brake problems. It seemed the Corvettes, Vipers, and NSX cars could run long stretches at 120+ mph, but the Mustangs would overheat very quickly. At least the cooling problem seems to be gone...

tkogt

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hubec @ April 20, 2006, 11:06 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Just to clear up a few points;

Lowering a car certainly can improve it's handling if done properly, but it can also mess it up. The car's suspension was designed to work properly at the stock ride height (linkage positions, spring rates, damper rates, bushing construction, etc). If you change the base height those other setting won't be optimal anymore. My experience on the track told me that I don't need to lower or stiffen the suspension because I'm really comfortably with the stock feel / controlability. AS LONG AS I don't get big, sticky tires.

I'm not planning on replacing the brake fluid right now because people have told me that the stock Ford fluid is very good with a 550f boiling point. The only available fluid that I've seen that's better is Motul 600 with a 593f boiling point which doesn't really seem like much of a difference, especially when there may be unintended downsides to using a non stock fluid. Am I off base? Does it make a big difference? Are there even better fluids?

Mark, I sent you an e-mail about that track day...
[/b][/quote]


i have lowered the car (frpp kit ) and added big sticky tires 275/40/18 kumho mx's. its at least 10 seconds per lap faster [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/04.gif[/img] than stock.

as far as the brake fliud goes, stock is just regular dot 3, after 5000 miles in the car it qualifies as "wet fluid".

"wet" dot 3 boils at around 284 degrees. (read, change your fluid)

i run valvoline synpower at $6 per quart. it has a dry boiling point of 525+. and is compatable with the abs units in our cars.

the hi temp stuff ( motul ect) that is silaca based (dot5) fluids will eat the seals in the abs unit!

as far as the rear pads go, turn the traction control off. ( i have replaced the front pads with hawks/ removed the backing plates, and use the synpower and havent replaced the rear pads yet, i have 250 miles at the track on the back pads and they still look new)

hope this helps


jay

Hubec

Update: Good news!

The brake fluid didn't boil after all. It just felt like it did because the pads had deteriorated to such a point (the rears being gone completely). So all I needed was new rear rotors, resurfaced front rotors and four new brake pads (Hawk HPS). Which came to a very reasonable $800cdn [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon24.gif[/img]. So that means that the brakes may be good enough for the track just the way they are as long as you upgrade the pads. I'll let you know how the newly shoe'd brakes hold up at the next trackday.

All that being said it does look very easy to add some homebuilt brake ducts to the front of the car, so I just may do that anyway for some extra insurance... Stay tuned.

Jay; Of course I did turn the traction control off, everytime prior to entering the track. Well once I forgot, but I quickly realized it when my first corner exit was unexpectedly put on hold [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]. It's a good point though, TCS will eat your rear pads quick if you rely on it. Thanks for the other brake tips, I'll probably switch to the valvoline fluid (that's what I used in my last car (WRX)), and remove my front backing plates. To be clear I also agree with you 100% on the suspension issue; if you want to go FAST you need big sticky tires, which may need a stiff low suspension. Since I'm happy with stock tires, I'm happy with stock suspension (I'd rather go sideways than go FAST [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/icon_mrgreen.gif[/img]).