I tell ya, I hit the rev limiter today for the first time and man, is that a kill-joy. The engine shows no sign of tiring when it comes in either. You're just enjoying a wave of great thrust...when suddenly....BLAAA. She quits. I'm pretty used to driving these cars by feel and sound, thing that's different with this one is that when it kicks in, the motor shows no sign of giving up.

 

With the SCT tune or Diablo tune you can move the rev limiter out of the way.

 

I can't wait to see more posts about how well the bottom end holds together with a higher rev limiter. I want to raise mine to 6800 (shifting at 6500 max), but I AM a bit leary of sending a powder cracked rod through the side of a once nice aluminum block!

Long term, it won't be a problem because I want to build a fully forged crank/rods/pistons rotating assembly for it so I can port the heads, but a bigger cam in and raise the rev limiter up to around 7500 or so. But until then, I REALLY don't want to ventilate the block!

 

Its a blessing to those that punch it and forget that they have to shift eventually (manual owners...and I've seen this happen).

 

I have heard that the best time to shift is around 5500 or so, actually before you hit the limiter.

 

Once you have a tune, the peak HP is from 5900-6300 rpm.

 

Someone once told me the computer logs each and every time you hit the rev limiter so the service dep. (read: bye bye warranty) can pull that information if they want. Anyone confirm this?

 

I heard that as well

 

everytime you hit the rev limiter, it sets a code without putting on the check engine light. no, it does not void any warranty. that's what it is there for - to protect the engine.

the technician won't even call attention to it unless there is engine damage related to abusive driving. so if you hit the rev limiter once in awhile, its not so bad.

 

what is the rev limiter currently set at on manuals, and what is the automatic shift at, 5K? also, I'm sure this is a stupid question, but any kind of chip mod will void the warranty, right?

 

I took my 2000 GT in for service and they mentioned that the computer told them I revved the car high. I got rid of that loose lipped car after that. :nono:

 

Go ahead and program it out ..... Don't come back here female ******* when you blow an engine ....

Or better yet, learn your car .... You should be able to "hear" where you have to shift without even looking at speedo or tach.

I want to meet the person thast gets any warranty work denied for hitting the reve limiter .... Rev limiter is there to protect the components ....

 

On manuals, the rev limiter is set at 6000 rpm. I'm not sure about autos, maybe the same.

 

I've hit it once too... and it is a "party pooper"... you're right that the thing still seems to be pulling strong when it hits... I'm more aware of my RPMs now when I goose it.... But for the most part, I drive like the 42 year old I am... BTW, I've had the same experiance on my Buell Lightning... and when a bike hits the rev limiter it can actually be scary - it's almost like rear brake is applied unexpectedly...

 

The rev limiter is not a killjoy, it's an hiney saver!

If you accidentally (or on purpose for some reason) rev past 7000 on these motors, you'll get valve float and probably piston to valve contact, and you'll get to buy a new motor.

Now THAT is a killjoy.

Beef up the springs and you can spin it a lot higher, but there is a LOT of stress on wrist pins & bearings at high speeds...probably best to wait for a built shortbloack before revving to the moon.

 

holderca1,

The reason people are getting better times shifting at 5500 instead of 6k is BECAUSE of the rev limiter and how it is implemented on the 05. The engine is closing the throttle as you approach the rev limit and it takes it a half second or so to reopen it. By shifting earlier, you stay in "control" of the throttle instead of the ECU overriding it for you. If you raise the rev limiter, you can shift at the right point for power and not have the ECU second guessing you.