When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking for some information.
I'm looking to replace the bushing in my OEM rear upper control arm.
But everywhere I look it says that it's part number 5R3Z-5A638-DA.
But this isn't correct. It's too small. That's for the rear axle bushing... Apparently.
It's also #2 in the diagram.
Anyone know what I should be really looking for to replace it?
Your car is the '07 PP '06... I don't think it matters, though, as long as it's not a Shelby or such.
It's... complicated. Unnecessarily so. Doesn't matter what model of Mustang, same silliness regarding this part. However, Ford's decided that you need two parts, the bushing for the axle side, and *the entire bracket and arm* on the body side. https://parts.lakelandford.com/a/For...JC05830.html#2
That's the diagram and parts list. You want parts 1 and 2. Plus any bolts that they use that are one time use only. Notice how the entire arm and bracket assembled with the bushing is part 1. The axle bushing is part 2. They preassemble the thing and you have to install the entire thing. Which in the case of the '05-09 models also means dropping the tank.
Disassembling the new arm is not recommended due to Ford's torque to yield bolts on that arm. If you can get ARP or whatever bolts or just wanna do your thing and do what they say don't, go for it, I ain't your boss.
I chose to replace the arm and bushings with a replacement aftermarket for reasons. Mainly they'll last longer, although they do need greasing.
Thanks for the response houtex. I agree it is unnecessarily complicated. Why give misinformation or not have that part avaliable to purchase? It makes no sense.
Well at any rate I found out that the Roush 3rd link control arm is far superior than the OEM one and it uses the bushings for the axel! So if you ever want to replace it you can. Non of this "need to buy a whole new control arm" crap.
So I bought one and will install it on the car when it arrives.
Why give misinformation or not have that part avaliable to purchase?
Two reasons: One, that particular through bolt is a *PAIN IN THE BUTT*. Not not doable, but still, man. The entire bracket is awful, truly, see 'tank removal' above. Having done it, yes, tank has to come out on the '05-09s. '10+ they changed it, and it's doable in the car, but they're not interchangeable. If you're doing this thing, the entire thing should be replaced because getting that through bolt is... fun. I managed to do it in car, and I did NOT change the body bracket, just the arm. I have the new bracket, I just ain't droppin' the tank. If I ever do, I'll stick that bracket in there then.
Two: Alignment. The bracket/arm/bushing is correctly aligned at the factory to prevent NVH and promote as long a life as possible. Misalignment of any of the bits can cause premature wear of the bushing and/or noise you don't want.
Roush, BMR, etc, don't use shaped bushings and don't use rubber, so they are a little more amenable to misalignment... to a point. One should always align the parts at ride height before final torqueing of all suspension bolts/nuts to ensure the bushings aren't tensioned wrong. They also typically have a grease zerk associated with their pieces to make the noise go away and help the bushing realign, because that harder material won't 'stick' like the rubber does, but it will move and it will squeak.
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,660
Likes: 2,528
From: Carnegie, PA
According to the summit racing product description, the roush upper 3rd link does in fact use rubber bushings. The major difference when compared to stock, is the Roush is made of heavier gauge steel, otherwise, it's no different from the OEM link. The OP could also had went with the 2011-14 OEM upper 3rd link which Ford redesigned in 2011 for the 2011-14 models that are similar with the roush design upper 3rd link, but is 9.25" in length compared to the 2005-10 upper links which were 8.5" long.. Despite the additional .75" in length, the redesigned OEM 2011-14 upper 3rd links are compatible with the older 2005-10 S197 cars.
That's right it's rubber.
I have already changed my rear upper control arm once already with the Steeda one so I know exactly what you are talking about. Installing it is a PITA. You don't need to remove the tanks. Just lower them a bit.
I didn't know about the redesign of the 11-14.
Someone send me this if you want to read about the Roush 3rd arm link. https://motoiq.com/project-budget-40...oush-3rd-link/
Last edited by VGMStudios; Nov 4, 2021 at 05:18 PM.
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,660
Likes: 2,528
From: Carnegie, PA
I Also didn't know about the 11-14 redesign until coming across the ford gt500 forum link. What I really like about the Roush 3rd arm link vs BMR, is the Roush still uses Rubber bushings over Polyurethane which require greasing. Poly bushings are also prone to increasing NVH and squeaking due to their stiffness. Although the Roush 3rd links still use rubber bushings, the bushing material is constructed from a harder grade rubber over OEM stock, but still able to absorb road imperfections and keep NVH to a minimum better over Poly bushings.
My only concern with upgrading to the Roush 3rd arm link, is whether or not it's compatible for lowered suspension cars? From the info located on the ford gt500 forums, I attached 2 posts submitted below in quotes that mentioned
[/QUOTE]"Discussion Starter · #21 · Dec 1, 2015That sounds good -- I won't worry about the marks on the shocks at this point. The Roush instructions say the assembly is pre-set for cars with stock ride height -- non-lowered (like my car). It also says that the bolt is already torqued to the right setting, so I think it should be OK. I did also send an e-mail to Roush tech support and asked them. I'll post it if I get a helpful response from them! :laugh:"[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE] The Roush arm I have has a sticker that says "lowered cars". <<But then I ask, how low, what springs etc.? If it is set for a Roush lowering kit, that may not be the same for a FRPP kit or something like an Eibach coil-over set up. Once the car is lowered all bets are off as to if it is adjusted correctly for the specific car. Once the UCM is bolted in place, you should not have to pull down, or push up on the arm (rubber bushing) to get the axle attachment to line up in the normal ride height position. If you do have to pull it down or push it up to align that rear diff. bolt, that amount of load is always on the rubber bushing and it is not neutral at normal ride height.[/QUOTE]
Being as my car is lowered by approx 1.3" front and 1.5" rear is would the adjustment of the pinion angle still be correct if upgrading to the Roush 3rd upper link or would upgrading to an adjustable 3rd upper link be required instead? After reading over the description posts over on ford gt500 forums, I'm not quite certain as to which would provide the best option for my particular application
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; Nov 6, 2021 at 09:13 PM.
M05fastbackGT you mention in my other thread that even if you are lowered (less than 2") you can still use the OEM 3rd upper link and it wouldn't affect the pinion angle?
I also spoke to someone who owns a mustang shop and he confirmed what you said.
Since the Roush one is like the OEM one, why wouldn't it work? As you said, if it is lowered more than 2" then you'll need an adjustable one. Otherwise the OEM one is just fine.
SUPERCHARGED RED ROCKET ------------------Master-Moderator
Joined: May 11, 2006
Posts: 10,660
Likes: 2,528
From: Carnegie, PA
Originally Posted by VGMStudios
M05fastbackGT you mention in my other thread that even if you are lowered (less than 2") you can still use the OEM 3rd upper link and it wouldn't affect the pinion angle?
I also spoke to someone who owns a mustang shop and he confirmed what you said.
Since the Roush one is like the OEM one, why wouldn't it work? As you said, if it is lowered more than 2" then you'll need an adjustable one. Otherwise the OEM one is just fine.
That was exactly what I thought until coming across the posts I read on gt500 forums.. Since reading the gt500 forum posts which mentioned that Roush manufactured a 3rd upper link for stock ride height applications and another for lowered applications which btw is also non-adjustable, this is causing some confusion. The way I see it is this, if the upper 3rd link is non-adjustable? then what is really the difference between the Roush 3rd link made for stock applications and the other Roush link recommended for lowered applications? Unless I somehow misinterpreted the posts submitted on gt500 forums, I honestly don't get it
From left to right, here's images of the OEM 2010, Roush and 2011 OEM upper 3rd links taken from gt500 forums.
The link in the center is the Roush upper 3rd link which has the sticker that includes model number and has 2012/2013 lowered printed on it
Last edited by m05fastbackGT; Nov 7, 2021 at 02:29 PM.
I managed to do it in car, and I did NOT change the body bracket, just the arm. I have the new bracket, I just ain't droppin' the tank. If I ever do, I'll stick that bracket in there then.
