OK, I Had to Change the Stock Plugs
OK, I Had to Change the Stock Plugs
After reading so much in here about them. It only has 13654 miles on her, but my fears were growing the more ya'll posted. I tried to get one piece plugs in this town, but the tax would have made them more than Amazon. $165 is a heck of a lot for Champion Plugs, no matter how you cut it. Being a Old Hippie Type (yeah, 54 in July) and remembering what Plugs went for in "My" youth, and also didn't want to grab a can 'o vasoline and back into the Stealership, I just ordered 'em. Got a can of Nickle Anti-seize as well, and did 'em this am. Took it apart, dropped about a teaspoon of SaeFoam onto each well after cracking each one 1/4 of a turn. Let 'em sit for about 15 min and went kinda smooth. Only trouble ones were numbers 8, 2 and 4, 4 being the worst. That one alone I gave another 15 min on. Krikey they look like Ya'll know what. Followed the updated TSB to the letter (except the Seafoam) and she started right up. Done with it, and no more worries about broken plug removal!
So here's my question... how do you drive? Are you in traffic mostly? Or highway? Do you run the engine up to redline regularly?
I've wondered about this with the other plug pics. While an oil separator will help immensly, I still believe in the "Italian tune-up". I take mine up to redline at least once a day after its good and warm. It not only blows the carbon out but also keeps the cylinder wall free of a ridge at sub redline levels.
I've wondered about this with the other plug pics. While an oil separator will help immensly, I still believe in the "Italian tune-up". I take mine up to redline at least once a day after its good and warm. It not only blows the carbon out but also keeps the cylinder wall free of a ridge at sub redline levels.
So here's my question... how do you drive? Are you in traffic mostly? Or highway? Do you run the engine up to redline regularly?
I've wondered about this with the other plug pics. While an oil separator will help immensly, I still believe in the "Italian tune-up". I take mine up to redline at least once a day after its good and warm. It not only blows the carbon out but also keeps the cylinder wall free of a ridge at sub redline levels.
I've wondered about this with the other plug pics. While an oil separator will help immensly, I still believe in the "Italian tune-up". I take mine up to redline at least once a day after its good and warm. It not only blows the carbon out but also keeps the cylinder wall free of a ridge at sub redline levels.
Another Question....just what would a Oil Separator actually do? I wish I could Red-Line the thing, but that daymned nanny govenor keeps me below 6500, I have the SCT, but have yet figured out how to get it to 7500.
Some tuners raise it to 6800 - not so you go there but so you can get a full run to 6500 before the ECM starts reelin' her in and then cuts out.
I'd try and avoid that 7500 if it were me.

(even my Lotus stopped at 7k)
Here's what the oil separator catches so it doesn't enter your intake:
And that's with clean oil:
Last edited by cdynaco; Apr 20, 2010 at 02:37 PM.
HT1's are a colder plug, also 2 piece. I got the champions because they are 1 piece, which means that they will not come apart when trying to remove them. Also I can use my old feeler gauges instead of buying a special tool just to gap the OEM Motorcraft plugs. Not that I don't like buying tools.....
. I paid 18.90 each plus shipping, plus Nickle Anti-seize that came out to over 165.00. everyone in this town wanted over 20.00 a plug "special ordered" as no-one had them in stock and add 8.25% sales tax on top of that. Now I'm getting all kinds of ad's from the Internet AND mail with them cheaper. Story of my life right there.
HT1's are a colder plug, also 2 piece. I got the champions because they are 1 piece, which means that they will not come apart when trying to remove them. Also I can use my old feeler gauges instead of buying a special tool just to gap the OEM Motorcraft plugs. Not that I don't like buying tools.....
. I paid 18.90 each plus shipping, plus Nickle Anti-seize that came out to over 165.00. everyone in this town wanted over 20.00 a plug "special ordered" as no-one had them in stock and add 8.25% sales tax on top of that. Now I'm getting all kinds of ad's from the Internet AND mail with them cheaper. Story of my life right there.

And don't try finding 7,500 rpms or you'll be looking for a new crank.
HT1's are a colder plug, also 2 piece. I got the champions because they are 1 piece, which means that they will not come apart when trying to remove them. Also I can use my old feeler gauges instead of buying a special tool just to gap the OEM Motorcraft plugs. Not that I don't like buying tools.....
. I paid 18.90 each plus shipping, plus Nickle Anti-seize that came out to over 165.00. everyone in this town wanted over 20.00 a plug "special ordered" as no-one had them in stock and add 8.25% sales tax on top of that. Now I'm getting all kinds of ad's from the Internet AND mail with them cheaper. Story of my life right there.

Seeing your plugs I would definately get an oil catch can on that thing. Mine didn't look like that after 70k miles.
Redline on the 4.6 3V was 6250 prior to Bullitt, and Bullitt is 6500.
Some tuners raise it to 6800 - not so you go there but so you can get a full run to 6500 before the ECM starts reelin' her in and then cuts out.
I'd try and avoid that 7500 if it were me.
(even my Lotus stopped at 7k)
Here's what the oil separator catches so it doesn't enter your intake:

And that's with clean oil:

Some tuners raise it to 6800 - not so you go there but so you can get a full run to 6500 before the ECM starts reelin' her in and then cuts out.
I'd try and avoid that 7500 if it were me.

(even my Lotus stopped at 7k)
Here's what the oil separator catches so it doesn't enter your intake:
And that's with clean oil:
So what is that like a catch can?
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