Oil analysis done on the GT
2/25/06, 02:10 PM
#21
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sscobra @ February 25, 2006, 1:36 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
I would advise strongly no to go with a 10w-30 oil in these cars. The oil is too think under start up conditions. What tends to happen is the cold thick oil can not make it's way to the cam phasers in time as not to cause damage. This has been documented at local Ford dealers, that have techs that have no idea what they are doing. An unsupecting person drops off there new car with 3,000 miles on it for an oil change. The tech (being an idiot) thinks is just an oil change and dumps 10w-30 in the crankcase. Person drives away and notices a ticking noise coming from the engine. Yep, cam phasers are toast and the VCT units are no longer functioning properly. You should run full synthetic oil after a break-in period of 12,000 miles. It is at this point that the internal parts of the engine reach what is called equallibrium. Meaning all the surfaces that contact each other are now as smooth as they are going to get (kinda like polished). It would cost way to much to have manufactures try to machine parts to the this standard and it is almost if not impossible to get the "smoothness" that you get from 12,000 miles of driving.
[/b][/quote]
You my friend, are 100% correct in all that you say, I am swithing to Mobil 1 at ten thousand miles instead of twelve because I did a full on breakin( drove it like I stole it)...lol. I changed oil and filter at 60 miles, 1200 miles, 5000 miles( present milage). I will change at 10000 to synthetic and will change my oil every 5000 threreafter.
I would advise strongly no to go with a 10w-30 oil in these cars. The oil is too think under start up conditions. What tends to happen is the cold thick oil can not make it's way to the cam phasers in time as not to cause damage. This has been documented at local Ford dealers, that have techs that have no idea what they are doing. An unsupecting person drops off there new car with 3,000 miles on it for an oil change. The tech (being an idiot) thinks is just an oil change and dumps 10w-30 in the crankcase. Person drives away and notices a ticking noise coming from the engine. Yep, cam phasers are toast and the VCT units are no longer functioning properly. You should run full synthetic oil after a break-in period of 12,000 miles. It is at this point that the internal parts of the engine reach what is called equallibrium. Meaning all the surfaces that contact each other are now as smooth as they are going to get (kinda like polished). It would cost way to much to have manufactures try to machine parts to the this standard and it is almost if not impossible to get the "smoothness" that you get from 12,000 miles of driving.
[/b][/quote]
You my friend, are 100% correct in all that you say, I am swithing to Mobil 1 at ten thousand miles instead of twelve because I did a full on breakin( drove it like I stole it)...lol. I changed oil and filter at 60 miles, 1200 miles, 5000 miles( present milage). I will change at 10000 to synthetic and will change my oil every 5000 threreafter.
2/25/06, 10:43 PM
#22
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(John SCB @ February 25, 2006, 2:12 PM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Sounds like great advice, thanks. Guess I'll stay with 5w-20 but must get off the Castrol. Too bad because I've always used it on previous cars (mainly 80's BMW's) with great results. Full synthetic will get expensive so it's a tough call to convert over. Wonder how much extra engine life can be expected if running Syn over conventional... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
Well like most people have already said, this is one of many huge debates concerning oil. Honestly, you can beat this one to death with all the opinions, facts, and myths. I do believe that oil is cheaper than a new engine. Yes, at some point in time (who knows how long a person will have a certain car) the price you paid for good oil would catch the price of a new engine. However, to me it's the same as insurance. Just one big neccessary evil. You think it's a waste until you realize you need it.
Sounds like great advice, thanks. Guess I'll stay with 5w-20 but must get off the Castrol. Too bad because I've always used it on previous cars (mainly 80's BMW's) with great results. Full synthetic will get expensive so it's a tough call to convert over. Wonder how much extra engine life can be expected if running Syn over conventional... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img]
[/b][/quote]
Well like most people have already said, this is one of many huge debates concerning oil. Honestly, you can beat this one to death with all the opinions, facts, and myths. I do believe that oil is cheaper than a new engine. Yes, at some point in time (who knows how long a person will have a certain car) the price you paid for good oil would catch the price of a new engine. However, to me it's the same as insurance. Just one big neccessary evil. You think it's a waste until you realize you need it.
2/25/06, 11:05 PM
#23
Bullitt Member
I agree with ssCobra that you must keep the 5 weight bottom number. If you decide to keep using the 5W-20, perhaps the Ford brand oil would be a safer bet, providing that they have very high quality index stabilizers. I personally use Castrol Syntec 5W-50 in all my vehicles, and have great performance with it.
Keep in mind this definition of a 5W-20 oil:
It behaves like a 5 weight at 0F
The “W†means “safe for Winter applicationsâ€
It behaves like a 20 weight at 212F.
By the viscosity tables, I read the following thicknesses:
a 5 weight oil has a viscosity of about 3,000 Saybolt at 0F
a 20 weight oil has a viscosity of about 50 Saybolt at 212F
a 30 weight oil has a viscosity of about 65 Saybolt at 212F
a 40 weight oil has a viscosity of about 70 Saybolt at 212F
a 50 weight oil has a viscosity of about 95 Saybolt at 212F
So, whether your top number is 20 or 30 or 40 or even 50, they are all far thinner at full operating temperature than 5 weight is at 0F. You won't hurt your engine, and actually would protect it better with the higher upper number oils. Be advised that you will have a very slight reduction in fuel economy with thicker “upper number†oils (-1% at most).
Keep in mind this definition of a 5W-20 oil:
It behaves like a 5 weight at 0F
The “W†means “safe for Winter applicationsâ€
It behaves like a 20 weight at 212F.
By the viscosity tables, I read the following thicknesses:
a 5 weight oil has a viscosity of about 3,000 Saybolt at 0F
a 20 weight oil has a viscosity of about 50 Saybolt at 212F
a 30 weight oil has a viscosity of about 65 Saybolt at 212F
a 40 weight oil has a viscosity of about 70 Saybolt at 212F
a 50 weight oil has a viscosity of about 95 Saybolt at 212F
So, whether your top number is 20 or 30 or 40 or even 50, they are all far thinner at full operating temperature than 5 weight is at 0F. You won't hurt your engine, and actually would protect it better with the higher upper number oils. Be advised that you will have a very slight reduction in fuel economy with thicker “upper number†oils (-1% at most).
2/26/06, 07:27 AM
#24
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(sscobra @ February 26, 2006, 1:46 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Well like most people have already said, this is one of many huge debates concerning oil. Honestly, you can beat this one to death with all the opinions, facts, and myths. I do believe that oil is cheaper than a new engine. Yes, at some point in time (who knows how long a person will have a certain car) the price you paid for good oil would catch the price of a new engine. However, to me it's the same as insurance. Just one big neccessary evil. You think it's a waste until you realize you need it.
[/b][/quote]
Driving 150,000 miles useing Mobil1 every 5k = extra $800 (estimate) over the next 8 years.
Well like most people have already said, this is one of many huge debates concerning oil. Honestly, you can beat this one to death with all the opinions, facts, and myths. I do believe that oil is cheaper than a new engine. Yes, at some point in time (who knows how long a person will have a certain car) the price you paid for good oil would catch the price of a new engine. However, to me it's the same as insurance. Just one big neccessary evil. You think it's a waste until you realize you need it.
[/b][/quote]
Driving 150,000 miles useing Mobil1 every 5k = extra $800 (estimate) over the next 8 years.
2/26/06, 10:58 AM
#25
Only oils that are made using the 'Poly-Alpha-Olefin based technology' method are truly considered to be synthetic. Castrol Synthetic is NOT synthetic oil. It is simply a 'Group II base stock' that has been further refined using propane de-waxing and severe hydro-treating to give a better base stock. But is still refined from paraffinic crude, as all conventional 'dino' motor oil is. Although the US FTC allows Castrol to call it 'synthetic', it cannot be labeled as synthetic in Europe. It has a different name over there.
I'm not saying its not a good oil, it is, it just is not synthetic, and contains trace elements of sulfur and phosphorous which cause sludge.
I'm not saying its not a good oil, it is, it just is not synthetic, and contains trace elements of sulfur and phosphorous which cause sludge.
2/26/06, 12:36 PM
#26
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One question I have always had about synthetic blends is - what is the ratio on the blend? Is is 50% synthetic or what? I have never seen this stated anywhere. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dunno.gif[/img] Personnally, I do my own blend so that I know what I am getting. I found my 95 GT would leak on straight synthetic, so I usually blended 4 qt synthetic with 1 qt of regular (same brand of course). I had bought it used with 35k miles on it, so who knows what kind of oil had been used in it up until then...
Our 06 is scheduled to be built on 3/6 and I have been thinking about what oil I should use in it. Also, the dealer offers $9.95 oil changes for life, but if I cannot trust them to install the right oil I'd be better off to do it myself! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]
Our 06 is scheduled to be built on 3/6 and I have been thinking about what oil I should use in it. Also, the dealer offers $9.95 oil changes for life, but if I cannot trust them to install the right oil I'd be better off to do it myself! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/eek.gif[/img]
2/26/06, 01:03 PM
#27
Bullitt Member
I would think a dealership messing up an oil change would be the exception, and not the rule. A $10 oil change is a great deal. I personally like to change my own oil, however.
As far as synthetic blends, I don't know the ratio either. However, the only oil without synthetic is a straight viscosity oil, such as 30 weight. A multi-viscosity oil starts with the natural base oil that is the lower number As an example, in our 5W-20 oil, it would be a natural 5 weight oil with synthetic index stabilizers added to make it thin less quickly as the temperature increases.
As far as synthetic blends, I don't know the ratio either. However, the only oil without synthetic is a straight viscosity oil, such as 30 weight. A multi-viscosity oil starts with the natural base oil that is the lower number As an example, in our 5W-20 oil, it would be a natural 5 weight oil with synthetic index stabilizers added to make it thin less quickly as the temperature increases.
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