My Gt came in today...but dealer screwed up order
#41
Originally posted by Badsnke98@October 26, 2004, 4:56 PM
Our Dora stated Manual, even though we order Auto.
Our Dora stated Manual, even though we order Auto.
![Dunno](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#42
The ATX is no longer a dog and does change the character of the car a little bit. Its more like a sophisticated GT car with it, almost BMW like. I kinda like it both ways. The aftermarket will offer products to enhance the auto as well. I can only figure out very limited circumstances where the manual has any true advantage on certain track situations. On the other hand, the ATX shines in regular ol' traffic EVERY DAY. Change just the gearing a little bit(people will eventually find the gears that equate to a 'sweet spot' that makes it magic in the quarter mile) and tweak the shift points and valving(to make it downshift faster and more sensitive to throttle input which is mostly programed in the tranny and thus un-programing the fuel-economy concerns of the manufacturer), and most likely the ATX will beat the 5-speed in the 1/4. They are not hard to modify, you just tell it to do different things. Also, if you have ever bracket raced, autos dominate. If you tweak it to do 95% of the 5-speed's absolute maximum ability, how many times do you think the guy next to you will do everything right with only 5% for margin of error? Its not like the mach that got a different version of the engine with the auto. Great, I'm talking myself back into one again. Im so friggin sick of shifting.
This car does not have the power deficit to NEED a manual like a SVTF needs to work the 4500-7400 rpm range ALL THE TIME. It has gobs of power and I can feel the resistance while driving that it has even more hidden in just breathing alone. The 3v does have a noticeable dropoff just before redline, its not exactly like the 4v that can be stretched all the way up the revs and the redline set by the computer robs you of absolute top end, so the minutely 'safer' shift points of an automatic do not hinder it much, if any at all. Just a little change of rear axle gear to reduce 4th in the auto should do wonders, its the only place it starts to feel slower then the 5-speed. That makes 1/2/3 VERY agressive. Ad a little more 'juice' to the shift speed of the tranny and volia! A 'harder', faster shift rarely hurts an ATX, its usually 'slushed' for everyday comfort. Remember, at a track a slightly botched shift or touching the rev limiter by accident KILLS your run, the auto never misses.
Of course, this is all based on a regular bolt-on car, adding about 50hp max without a power adder. I have no idea how durable the new ATX is for people putting an extra 150+ under the hood. I'm not going too crazy with my car, so I may yet still go ATX. You should always maximize your performance without deviating from mfg specs as little as possible FIRST before adding more power artificially. Things like the proper gearset, breathing mods, aluminum flywheels, etc do not stress parts but increase efficiency dramatically. The car goes faster with the same basic design intended by its engineers. Most people just try to shove more stuff down the motor's throat and stress everything to get it to go faster. I learned a long time ago that the cheapest way to match the performance of a factory supercharged car like the 03 cobra BY FAR is to simply BUY the factory version, modding an 04 gt to catch an 04 cobra is WAY more expensive then starting with the real deal. Spend 15,000 on a gt, and cobra-guy buys a pully for a few hundred dollars and shows you tail lights. And hes only doing it for $150 bucks more a month then your stock gt payment. Think the extra $150 is a hard payment to swallow? try a $4000 supercharger or $6000 stronger bottom end payment sometime. Most people that 'skip' the cobra that want to go tons faster then stock to 'save' money end up buying two cobras worth of $, the gt, the mods, and the loss of trade in when they promptly break down and buy the cobra later anyway. Unless you are trying to turn this car into some MONSTER down the road of diminishing return, the 5-speed manual is a personal choice with this car, not truly a performance one. Sure the auto ends up costing a little more both at time of purchase and to mod to catch the 5 speed, but you can also still hold hands with your lady while you are promptly blowing away 95% of what will line up next to you at a light.
This car does not have the power deficit to NEED a manual like a SVTF needs to work the 4500-7400 rpm range ALL THE TIME. It has gobs of power and I can feel the resistance while driving that it has even more hidden in just breathing alone. The 3v does have a noticeable dropoff just before redline, its not exactly like the 4v that can be stretched all the way up the revs and the redline set by the computer robs you of absolute top end, so the minutely 'safer' shift points of an automatic do not hinder it much, if any at all. Just a little change of rear axle gear to reduce 4th in the auto should do wonders, its the only place it starts to feel slower then the 5-speed. That makes 1/2/3 VERY agressive. Ad a little more 'juice' to the shift speed of the tranny and volia! A 'harder', faster shift rarely hurts an ATX, its usually 'slushed' for everyday comfort. Remember, at a track a slightly botched shift or touching the rev limiter by accident KILLS your run, the auto never misses.
Of course, this is all based on a regular bolt-on car, adding about 50hp max without a power adder. I have no idea how durable the new ATX is for people putting an extra 150+ under the hood. I'm not going too crazy with my car, so I may yet still go ATX. You should always maximize your performance without deviating from mfg specs as little as possible FIRST before adding more power artificially. Things like the proper gearset, breathing mods, aluminum flywheels, etc do not stress parts but increase efficiency dramatically. The car goes faster with the same basic design intended by its engineers. Most people just try to shove more stuff down the motor's throat and stress everything to get it to go faster. I learned a long time ago that the cheapest way to match the performance of a factory supercharged car like the 03 cobra BY FAR is to simply BUY the factory version, modding an 04 gt to catch an 04 cobra is WAY more expensive then starting with the real deal. Spend 15,000 on a gt, and cobra-guy buys a pully for a few hundred dollars and shows you tail lights. And hes only doing it for $150 bucks more a month then your stock gt payment. Think the extra $150 is a hard payment to swallow? try a $4000 supercharger or $6000 stronger bottom end payment sometime. Most people that 'skip' the cobra that want to go tons faster then stock to 'save' money end up buying two cobras worth of $, the gt, the mods, and the loss of trade in when they promptly break down and buy the cobra later anyway. Unless you are trying to turn this car into some MONSTER down the road of diminishing return, the 5-speed manual is a personal choice with this car, not truly a performance one. Sure the auto ends up costing a little more both at time of purchase and to mod to catch the 5 speed, but you can also still hold hands with your lady while you are promptly blowing away 95% of what will line up next to you at a light.
#43
well, if he isn't going to charge you anything extra, and you think you might trade in your car anyway later on for SVT...then I'd say go for the auto. Besides with all the numbers that have been coming out, the manual really isn't that much faster.
#44
Originally posted by dustindu4@October 26, 2004, 9:44 PM
Who cares if they got a auto instead, Ford can't even produce the manual for another month. I don't get what the big deal is? It's not like you had to wait longer?
Who cares if they got a auto instead, Ford can't even produce the manual for another month. I don't get what the big deal is? It's not like you had to wait longer?
#45
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If you want a 5 speed, wait!
But, theres nothing wrong with an Auto ( 5.1 0-60mph and 13.6 quarter mile ).
My 87 GT is a 5 speed, and I was sick of shifting, so I got a 2001 Auto GT.
I never got rid of the 87, so I had best of both worlds.
Last April, I got rid of my 2001 GT, so I could buy a new Stang. But this one will be a manual, since I am considering selling my 87.
But, theres nothing wrong with an Auto ( 5.1 0-60mph and 13.6 quarter mile ).
My 87 GT is a 5 speed, and I was sick of shifting, so I got a 2001 Auto GT.
I never got rid of the 87, so I had best of both worlds.
Last April, I got rid of my 2001 GT, so I could buy a new Stang. But this one will be a manual, since I am considering selling my 87.
#47
OK - Here's what I would do. First of all can you prove that you ordered your car with the specific features you say you requested? If yes, did the dealer take a deposit from you. If yes, then you have a set in concrete contract with the dealer that it has to honor.
I would make him order a new car with the manual transmission and let you drive the auto at his expense until the manual car comes in. If the dealer refuses to settle the contract to YOUR satisfaction, then you have every right to challenge the dealer in court. I wouldn't be slow to take this action. However, to give the dealer a chance before he has to defend himself in court, try to work with him to 1) offset the loss of having the car you ordered while the other car comes in (money or otherwise) and 2) getting the car you want in a reasonable time. You are in control here if your ducks are in a row, not the dealer.
I also live in Smithville, MO. I just might drive up and give the car a look. I will not buy anything until the Cobra comes out, but I haven't seen a 2005 live yet. BE calm and use your head and not your heart. Good luck.
I would make him order a new car with the manual transmission and let you drive the auto at his expense until the manual car comes in. If the dealer refuses to settle the contract to YOUR satisfaction, then you have every right to challenge the dealer in court. I wouldn't be slow to take this action. However, to give the dealer a chance before he has to defend himself in court, try to work with him to 1) offset the loss of having the car you ordered while the other car comes in (money or otherwise) and 2) getting the car you want in a reasonable time. You are in control here if your ducks are in a row, not the dealer.
I also live in Smithville, MO. I just might drive up and give the car a look. I will not buy anything until the Cobra comes out, but I haven't seen a 2005 live yet. BE calm and use your head and not your heart. Good luck.
#48
Originally posted by CrossBoss@October 27, 2004, 9:38 AM
OK - Here's what I would do. First of all can you prove that you ordered your car with the specific features you say you requested? If yes, did the dealer take a deposit from you. If yes, then you have a set in concrete contract with the dealer that it has to honor.
I would make him order a new car with the manual transmission and let you drive the auto at his expense until the manual car comes in. If the dealer refuses to settle the contract to YOUR satisfaction, then you have every right to challenge the dealer in court. I wouldn't be slow to take this action. However, to give the dealer a chance before he has to defend himself in court, try to work with him to 1) offset the loss of having the car you ordered while the other car comes in (money or otherwise) and 2) getting the car you want in a reasonable time. You are in control here if your ducks are in a row, not the dealer.
I also live in Smithville, MO. I just might drive up and give the car a look. I will not buy anything until the Cobra comes out, but I haven't seen a 2005 live yet. BE calm and use your head and not your heart. Good luck.
OK - Here's what I would do. First of all can you prove that you ordered your car with the specific features you say you requested? If yes, did the dealer take a deposit from you. If yes, then you have a set in concrete contract with the dealer that it has to honor.
I would make him order a new car with the manual transmission and let you drive the auto at his expense until the manual car comes in. If the dealer refuses to settle the contract to YOUR satisfaction, then you have every right to challenge the dealer in court. I wouldn't be slow to take this action. However, to give the dealer a chance before he has to defend himself in court, try to work with him to 1) offset the loss of having the car you ordered while the other car comes in (money or otherwise) and 2) getting the car you want in a reasonable time. You are in control here if your ducks are in a row, not the dealer.
I also live in Smithville, MO. I just might drive up and give the car a look. I will not buy anything until the Cobra comes out, but I haven't seen a 2005 live yet. BE calm and use your head and not your heart. Good luck.
#49
Didn't I read that he went ahead and took the Auto?
Anyhow, if you truly get into the drag racing scene, like Kevin said, the Auto will the tranny of choice. You don't have to worry about missed shifts, you can program it to do what you want and when you want it to, and you can adjust stall speed (via converter) to get as brutal of a launch as you want.
Auto's rule. It's just that manuals have a little more "Fun-Factor" for some people. Either way, having an '05 GT is awesome, regardless which tranny it has!![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
:dance: :dance:
Anyhow, if you truly get into the drag racing scene, like Kevin said, the Auto will the tranny of choice. You don't have to worry about missed shifts, you can program it to do what you want and when you want it to, and you can adjust stall speed (via converter) to get as brutal of a launch as you want.
Auto's rule. It's just that manuals have a little more "Fun-Factor" for some people. Either way, having an '05 GT is awesome, regardless which tranny it has!
![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
:dance: :dance:
#50
From personal experiece the auto will have a higher resale value if you ever decide to trade it in towards a Cobra.
I'm excited to get mine with the Auto, especially if the extra gear makes the car more responsive than the previous version with the 4r70W trans. I've endured negative comments for years about purchasing a performance car with an auto trans, but I don't care. I buy and drive what I like.
I'm excited to get mine with the Auto, especially if the extra gear makes the car more responsive than the previous version with the 4r70W trans. I've endured negative comments for years about purchasing a performance car with an auto trans, but I don't care. I buy and drive what I like.
#52
Originally posted by kevinb120@October 27, 2004, 9:12 AM
no offense, but thats sooooooooooooooo not going to happen. Other then getting the deposit back, there's nothing he can do.
no offense, but thats sooooooooooooooo not going to happen. Other then getting the deposit back, there's nothing he can do.
At the very least, the dealer has caused the customer to loose interest on the deposit money based on their agreement. That is a real loss. If the dealer has no responsibility to honor a contract made to a customer, why does anyone need to put down a deposit? Is a deposit really a surity of honesty between buyer and seller? Which side has to be honest?
A lawsuit directed at the dealer will at least cause the dealer to lose the money required to defend itself against a customer who it has caused a real loss. If nothing else, the dealer will most likely settle with the customer to avoid losing more than it would have gained by not handling the situation correctly.
This would be an excellent question to pose to a legal beagle type.
#55
Originally posted by Nichole@October 26, 2004, 2:54 PM
That's a tough decision...isn't it amazing how dealers can't put in the proper order codes? My car is being delivered without the upgraded wheels...obviously my issue is fixable unlike yours.
That's a tough decision...isn't it amazing how dealers can't put in the proper order codes? My car is being delivered without the upgraded wheels...obviously my issue is fixable unlike yours.
![Thumb](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif)
#56
I would shop around to other dealers and see if they have GT's with manuals which most of them do while they are looking to replace the auto and/or just wait until they get your replacement in and get it for msrp plus get your deposit back.
![Mad](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
#57
Originally posted by SixtySix@October 26, 2004, 9:39 PM
Great! I'm #3....so far...I'd be willing to bet somebody else will have one before Demember
Great! I'm #3....so far...I'd be willing to bet somebody else will have one before Demember
![Wink](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#58
CrossBoss,
Not a legal beagle but took a few classes... I'd say that there was no "real" loss. The dealer made good in that they ordered a new car for him and didn't sell it from underneath him or some shady story that it never showed up. A real loss would be that the dealer took his money and never ordered his car or intentionally ordered it wrong to sell it from under him. If you can prove that then you may have a case, otherwise it's more of a bargaining chip in your favor.
Not a legal beagle but took a few classes... I'd say that there was no "real" loss. The dealer made good in that they ordered a new car for him and didn't sell it from underneath him or some shady story that it never showed up. A real loss would be that the dealer took his money and never ordered his car or intentionally ordered it wrong to sell it from under him. If you can prove that then you may have a case, otherwise it's more of a bargaining chip in your favor.
#59
Originally posted by CrossBoss+October 27, 2004, 11:45 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (CrossBoss @ October 27, 2004, 11:45 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-kevinb120@October 27, 2004, 9:12 AM
no offense, but thats sooooooooooooooo not going to happen. Other then getting the deposit back, there's nothing he can do.
no offense, but thats sooooooooooooooo not going to happen. Other then getting the deposit back, there's nothing he can do.
At the very least, the dealer has caused the customer to loose interest on the deposit money based on their agreement. That is a real loss. If the dealer has no responsibility to honor a contract made to a customer, why does anyone need to put down a deposit? Is a deposit really a surity of honesty between buyer and seller? Which side has to be honest?
A lawsuit directed at the dealer will at least cause the dealer to lose the money required to defend itself against a customer who it has caused a real loss. If nothing else, the dealer will most likely settle with the customer to avoid losing more than it would have gained by not handling the situation correctly.
This would be an excellent question to pose to a legal beagle type. [/b][/quote]
your argument doesn't make much sense. nowhere did he state that the dealer would not order the car he wanted. if fact the dealer has already re-ordered the car that he wanted. There was just an honest mistake. The car WILL still be ordered. In the "contract" it does not state how long it takes to receive an order.
#60
![04](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/04.gif)
Of course, I don't like reading through every page of posts either but in this case, it might help?
![Dunno](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
I love autos for everyday use. As a matter of fact, I've got an automatic, V6 powered car that I'll run against a V8 any day!
![04](https://themustangsource.com/forums/images/smilies/04.gif)
It has two initials - GN.
But man, would I love to have an '05 GT!!! Soon!!!