stangsvt302

Hello Everyone... I was wondering if any of you may have some more suggestions to get more horsepower out of my 2008 GT without putting in a Super Charger or Turbo.
Here is what I have already:
K&N CAI
Throttle Body Spacer
Flowmaster exhaust with X pipe
Bama Tuner
Shorty Headers
Hood Vents to keep her cool

I was going to get a 62mm Throttle Body but everyone on this page says its a waste of money and doesn't do much in terms of horsepower.

Ill take any and all suggestions.
Thanks

SpectreH

I'm thinking cams would be the next thing, possibly some head work.

Weather Man

Cams and FRPP intake will help the top end, but will hurt you on the bottom where you drive day to day.

Jack Straw

I'd say cams, long tube headers,under-drive pulleys, and maybe a light one piece drive shaft.

stangsvt302

That's another one of my concerns is my car is my daily driver with the exception of the winter season. That's why I don't want to put a super charger or a turbo on it. I have thought about the pulleys as well and a stacker... but most people frown upon the stacker too

stangsvt302

I also feel that Cams are just to dang loud for a daily driver... although perfect for a track car. I do like that sound for sure, but I like my radio as well....

SpectreH

My supercharged '13 GT is my daily driver. It hasn't hurt drive ability at all.

stangsvt302

That's like 6 grand though .....

dly

http://www.brenspeed.com/fbpaxton.html $4000


and I don't think the throttle body spacer is doing you anything.

stangsvt302

Thanks for the link.

2k7gtcs

I bought a used Saleen sc and put it on mine about 7 years and 16,000 miles ago and it would be a better daily driver now than it was stock.

However I would not put a Saleen on another one as they are discontinued for years now and parts would be a pain to find now.

I would think a Paxton, whipple, roush, or even edelbrock would all be good alternatives.

I wouldn't recommend a turbo setup on the 4.6. Sure they are out there but the tune is key and tuners for them more rare in my opinion. I've never had one but have always heard they are problematic to dial in.

You will spend more than $4k though. You can double that for supporting mods. Things like effective cooling and suspension tires and brakes. Exhaust. It will all add up.

07 Boss

My car has been a daily for 5-6 years with an SC on it. Why would putting an SC or turbo on a car be bad for a daily driver? Just curious as to what your reasoning is. A little while ago I had 3 cars in my driveway and all of them were boosted in one way or another including the wife's.

The more air you can pump through the more power you can make so make it flow. It is almost as expensive to build any real power N/A as it is with boost or nitrous. Actually nitrous is probably the cheapest. N/A power can be had through heads, valves, valve train, exhaust etc. Raising RPM levels will pump more air through thus creating more power. Ever thought about gears? Probably one of the best SOP feelings of power that can be had. Anyways, you might gain 5 with pulleys or 10 with exhaust or 15 with cams, but in the grand scheme of things they don't really make that big of a difference. If you want to make a substantial jump in HP you need to spend some $'s, like thousands.

Cavero

Not sure where you're getting that idea from I've got cams on mine, and sure its louder than stock (that might also be the long tubes tough), but usually only if you mash the pedal. Around town if you're not beating on it, it can be almost as quiet as stock. Actually, on mine, the catback is still stock and when i'm leisurely driving around down, it sounds stock. Its only when I get my foot more than halfway down on the pedal that it starts getting raspy and loud.

---

What's your goal for power? Budget?

Most N/A setups I've seen people around here (myself included) get about 350 RWHP, without spending an obscene amount of money on it. Thats why most people agree the biggest bang for your buck is to supercharge. If fact, for what I spent on my N/A mods, it wouldn't have cost me that much more to do a 600RWHP Roush setup. But I topped out at 350.

Cavero

Depending on the cams, you can get around that. From what I learned last spring, when it comes to cams and intakes you can gain more power, but you always end up sacrificing it somewhere else in the powerband. Take cams like FRPP Hot Rods, which are more for sound (some would say) and high end power, but at the expense of the low end like you said. The stock intake manifold is for more midrange like everyone uses around town, while the FRPP intake shifts the powerband further up.

That's why I went with Comp Cams 127400's, which are SPR cams and are designed for more midrange gains (so less peak HP). Using these along with the FRPP manifold, I was able to keep my power at the lower end, but get some solid gains above 4000 RPM. Around town it drives like it always did (w/ an intake + tune), but get it on the highway and thats where the fun really starts.

I dug up a printout of my old dyno chart from 2007 when I did a intake+tune + aluminum driveshaft and overlaid it in photoshop w/ the dyno from all N/A build I did this spring (lined up the matching gridlines). Not as accurate as lining the actual datapoints on the same graph, but I don't think Tillman Speed is in business anymore.

The purple/green lines are the old 2007 dyno run, blue is 2016.