MGW shifter - how much better than Hurst?
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MGW shifter - how much better than Hurst?
From all I've read it seems as though most people think the MGW is superior. Is the installation any more difficult compared to the Hurst? And is the MGW worth the extra cash if I'm never going to be racing my car?
#2
I've never driven a S197 with a Hurst, but I have read lots of posts where people switch to MGW and say it was an improvement. I am a devoted MGW owner. I was in the first "100 shifters sold, we were the "Beta" group.
I have been nothing but thrilled with my MGW. Since I was one of the first buyers, I received a couple of retro fit parts to fix early glitches, all free of course. Since then, the shifter has performed flawlessly. I heartily recommend a MGW. Is the few extra bucks worth it, in short-yes.
I have been nothing but thrilled with my MGW. Since I was one of the first buyers, I received a couple of retro fit parts to fix early glitches, all free of course. Since then, the shifter has performed flawlessly. I heartily recommend a MGW. Is the few extra bucks worth it, in short-yes.
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I've never driven a S197 with a Hurst, but I have read lots of posts where people switch to MGW and say it was an improvement. I am a devoted MGW owner. I was in the first "100 shifters sold, we were the "Beta" group.
I have been nothing but thrilled with my MGW. Since I was one of the first buyers, I received a couple of retro fit parts to fix early glitches, all free of course. Since then, the shifter has performed flawlessly. I heartily recommend a MGW. Is the few extra bucks worth it, in short-yes.
I have been nothing but thrilled with my MGW. Since I was one of the first buyers, I received a couple of retro fit parts to fix early glitches, all free of course. Since then, the shifter has performed flawlessly. I heartily recommend a MGW. Is the few extra bucks worth it, in short-yes.
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I went from a Pro 5.0 to the MGW and it was a night and day improvement. If you are not in a huge hurry, my gen 2 MGW will be up for sale in a few weeks.
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Yes, the MGW throw is totally adjustable as the linkage mount is threaded and can be lengthened or shortened by simply turning it. Setting the throw during installation is the easiest, but it can be adjusted anytime from under the car (requires removing the linkage from the shifter).
I went from a Pro 5.0 to the MGW and it was a night and day improvement. If you are not in a huge hurry, my gen 2 MGW will be up for sale in a few weeks.
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There are 2 different versions and mine is the same as what you can buy new from MGW today. I am going auto, which is the only reason the MGW is coming out. I will drop you a note when I get closer to having it swapped out... more than likely in early April.
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Cool, thanks man.
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Ok, one last question. After driving my car around for a couple weeks now, I notice that shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd is kind of clunky. Is that just the sloppy shifter or is it just my shifting? Is the MGW more smooth on these shifts?
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The MGW will definitely firm up the shifts and one of the biggest issues with the body mounted shifter like on these cars is "spirited shifts" from 2-3, which can result in missing a gear since the tranny is rotating separate from the shifter.
BTW, mine is going into the shop on 4/12, so it will be pulled and available around the 20th.
BTW, mine is going into the shop on 4/12, so it will be pulled and available around the 20th.
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I just finished installing my MGW shifter a few hours ago. I can't compare it to the Hurst, but I can say it is everything I hoped it would be, and the install video/instructions made it a very simple DIY project.
The latest version has a gold anodized rear support bracket, with two interchangeable bushings. Doogie, is this the one you have in your car? If not, buying new may be worth it. I really like the race bushing feel, and it no longer needs a fender washer to mount it, like the previous design.
I used the dynomat around the shift hole, and put a strip from the excess I cut from the hole on the side of the transmission shift lever, and some on the bottom of the shift mechanism itself. It may not do much, but I had the material. With the two provided pads installed, and the rubber boot** reseated, I get some increased engine and road noise, but it is minimal, and I really like it. Like I said above, I used the firmer rear support bracket as well, so I expected it to sound a bit more race car, and less luxury car.
The video said most people liked 4-5 turns, so I went 7, hoping for a short throw, some notchy feel, and some audible shift noise. I got all of the above, and I am very happy.
**(Holy cow, that rubber boot was a pain to put back on. I tried putting it on before installing the shifter like the video recommends, but I couldnt get the shifter to fit through the hole properly, so I yanked it back off.)
I put the stock shift **** back on, so the only thing that looks different inside the cabin, is that the shift boot is turned around, to compensate for the fact that the MGW lever is a few inches further back toward the rear than the stocker. I find that position to be much easier on my arm and elbow.
I may get the MGW ball, however. I like cue ball shift *****, and don't need a printed shift pattern.
The latest version has a gold anodized rear support bracket, with two interchangeable bushings. Doogie, is this the one you have in your car? If not, buying new may be worth it. I really like the race bushing feel, and it no longer needs a fender washer to mount it, like the previous design.
I used the dynomat around the shift hole, and put a strip from the excess I cut from the hole on the side of the transmission shift lever, and some on the bottom of the shift mechanism itself. It may not do much, but I had the material. With the two provided pads installed, and the rubber boot** reseated, I get some increased engine and road noise, but it is minimal, and I really like it. Like I said above, I used the firmer rear support bracket as well, so I expected it to sound a bit more race car, and less luxury car.
The video said most people liked 4-5 turns, so I went 7, hoping for a short throw, some notchy feel, and some audible shift noise. I got all of the above, and I am very happy.
**(Holy cow, that rubber boot was a pain to put back on. I tried putting it on before installing the shifter like the video recommends, but I couldnt get the shifter to fit through the hole properly, so I yanked it back off.)
I put the stock shift **** back on, so the only thing that looks different inside the cabin, is that the shift boot is turned around, to compensate for the fact that the MGW lever is a few inches further back toward the rear than the stocker. I find that position to be much easier on my arm and elbow.
I may get the MGW ball, however. I like cue ball shift *****, and don't need a printed shift pattern.
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The new rear bracket can be seen in this video from SVT Performance:
My MGW shifter also has a chrome rod running from the shifting box to the front support mounting on the transmission, which is also different than the machined flat sided shaft used on previous versions.
Now I wish I'd taken pictures before I installed it. It is obvious they've made quite a few revisions recently.
My MGW shifter also has a chrome rod running from the shifting box to the front support mounting on the transmission, which is also different than the machined flat sided shaft used on previous versions.
Now I wish I'd taken pictures before I installed it. It is obvious they've made quite a few revisions recently.
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I just finished installing my MGW shifter a few hours ago. I can't compare it to the Hurst, but I can say it is everything I hoped it would be, and the install video/instructions made it a very simple DIY project.
The latest version has a gold anodized rear support bracket, with two interchangeable bushings. Doogie, is this the one you have in your car? If not, buying new may be worth it. I really like the race bushing feel, and it no longer needs a fender washer to mount it, like the previous design.
I used the dynomat around the shift hole, and put a strip from the excess I cut from the hole on the side of the transmission shift lever, and some on the bottom of the shift mechanism itself. It may not do much, but I had the material. With the two provided pads installed, and the rubber boot** reseated, I get some increased engine and road noise, but it is minimal, and I really like it. Like I said above, I used the firmer rear support bracket as well, so I expected it to sound a bit more race car, and less luxury car.
The video said most people liked 4-5 turns, so I went 7, hoping for a short throw, some notchy feel, and some audible shift noise. I got all of the above, and I am very happy.
**(Holy cow, that rubber boot was a pain to put back on. I tried putting it on before installing the shifter like the video recommends, but I couldnt get the shifter to fit through the hole properly, so I yanked it back off.)
I put the stock shift **** back on, so the only thing that looks different inside the cabin, is that the shift boot is turned around, to compensate for the fact that the MGW lever is a few inches further back toward the rear than the stocker. I find that position to be much easier on my arm and elbow.
I may get the MGW ball, however. I like cue ball shift *****, and don't need a printed shift pattern.
The latest version has a gold anodized rear support bracket, with two interchangeable bushings. Doogie, is this the one you have in your car? If not, buying new may be worth it. I really like the race bushing feel, and it no longer needs a fender washer to mount it, like the previous design.
I used the dynomat around the shift hole, and put a strip from the excess I cut from the hole on the side of the transmission shift lever, and some on the bottom of the shift mechanism itself. It may not do much, but I had the material. With the two provided pads installed, and the rubber boot** reseated, I get some increased engine and road noise, but it is minimal, and I really like it. Like I said above, I used the firmer rear support bracket as well, so I expected it to sound a bit more race car, and less luxury car.
The video said most people liked 4-5 turns, so I went 7, hoping for a short throw, some notchy feel, and some audible shift noise. I got all of the above, and I am very happy.
**(Holy cow, that rubber boot was a pain to put back on. I tried putting it on before installing the shifter like the video recommends, but I couldnt get the shifter to fit through the hole properly, so I yanked it back off.)
I put the stock shift **** back on, so the only thing that looks different inside the cabin, is that the shift boot is turned around, to compensate for the fact that the MGW lever is a few inches further back toward the rear than the stocker. I find that position to be much easier on my arm and elbow.
I may get the MGW ball, however. I like cue ball shift *****, and don't need a printed shift pattern.
#16
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The MGW is lightyears ahead of the Hurst (I have had both at various times). The Hurst is definitely better than the (rather pathetic) stock Mustang shifter, but isn't even close to the MGW in build quality, smoothness, etc.
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She's totally stock except for the Ford Racing lower control arms and MGW shifter, so there isn't anything special to see. Next up is a wash/claybar/wax, so after that is done I'll break out the camera.
Last edited by Blue Knight; 3/16/13 at 11:03 AM.
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Alright, so I just ordered the MGW. Hopefully it gets here by the end of the week. I really hope it's smoother than the stock shifter, especially getting into 2nd gear.
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