So I was already planning on replacing the clutch in the next couple of weeks but as the weeks pasted I began to notice a slight KNOCK .... It coincides with the rpm's and as they increase so does the Knocking...

So I took it in to get the Clutch taken care of and I did a little research and I am thinking and my shop is thinking the same thing that it is a "SPUN BEARING"

Man, I have only had my car for 5yrs and approx. 31k miles... So what is usually the cause of a spun bearing??? Is this something that happens often???

 

I dont know about that one. GL with the repair and I would fix it with such low miles. Must be a beaut.

 

I completely understand but I think it may be more expensive to repair.... I mean I don't know much about this issue; so any input would be great!!!!

 

Generally the costs involved in a connecting rod bearing are more than the costs of getting a warrantied motor from a wrecker. Personally I would never go this route as I'd take the opportunity (and excuse) for a rebuild or new short block with forged internals

 

That is kinda of what I am thinking... I guess we will see over the next few days and I will keep you guys updated. If that is the issue and I have to go with something new then I have to make some real decisions... Hmmmmmm already crying while getting a little excited!!!!

 

A good way to determine if it is a spun bearing is to start disconnecting spark plug wires one at a time from the cylinders while the engine is running.

If you pull a wire and the knock goes away, that's your failed bearing.

Causes range from inaccurate tolerances, wrong lubrication, over revving, ping or detonation, to faulty bearings.

 

If you can afford it upgrade the internals. Pretty sure upgraded short blocks can be had for somewhere around $3500. This way the hard work is done and install is more or less straight forward.

 

$3500 for a block and the internal??? I assume it is rather $3500 for the internals and that you are talking about reusing the stock block; correct?

 

I meant the whole short block but I may of spoke to soon this is for the 96-04. Thought it was for the 3v. I think you can get internals for much less than that though.

 

Then again.

http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com...009-a463sc.htm

 

So you think the stock block (ie. the actual short block) is a pretty good and can handle forged internals along with more than likely boost???

 

Sure. It's not the block that's the weak point. One thing to consider though is the actual rebuilding costs including the parts as opposed to buying a complete block. It may work out to close to the same price. The stock engine can handle boost as well but to me if you have to rebuild, do it once.

 

That's how my Olds 442 sounded... and yes it was a spun bearing.
I kept driving it easy for a while longer and then the next thing that happened was a leak in the head gasket between 2 cylinders (from piston moving too much due to spun bearing and affected the gasket?) and then the cyl filled with water. Tow truck here we came...

 

I haven't heard this one before. Why would the knock go away?
I realize without spark there is no downward force from combustion, yet at the same time the rod is still going up and down with the crank and the extra play from the bad bearing would still make a knock when it reverses direction wouldn't it?

 

No I didn't think the block itself was the weak point but I wanted to make sure I wasn't assuming something that wasn't true!!!! As for buying an assembled Block; I was going to looking into that as well but at this point considering it is a tiny bit premature I am holding off...

But all things considered I would like to some of you guys REALISTIC opinions on the direction I should go... Realistic meaning: I am not going to go out and buy a Cobra Jet Motor...

 

make sure its not a topend issue...cam phaser issues are kinda common, MTAS lost a roller from a rocker and it shredded his cam...
I havent heard either in real life, but would imagine in a all aluminum motor even a topend noise might sound as bad as a bearing in a old iron motor...

good luck with it- hope its not too major

 

Modular Depot has those for $3400 (Although the compression ratio is 8.7:1 for supercharged applications...lower than the stock 3V)

http://www.modulardepot.com/Ford_Rac...duct_info.html

 

That is exactly what we checked first and everything seemed to be fine up top; unfortunately.... Could have saved me a little money. Btw thanks I appreciate it!!!!

 

CONFIRMED "SPUN BEARING" What Now Guys???

 

What's next? 302 / 5.0!

http://www.brenspeed.com/engineinfo.html