SeanD

Hi,

I have to look at putting the car up on jack stands as I sold my wheels and now the ones I want Steeda Spyders, are on a major back order of 2 months, so I have no wheels.

I have seen pictures of jacks stands on the rear in front of the LCA's, but I am not sure exactly is the right spot. Do I put a piece of wood there for the car to sit on the before hitting the jack stand. It seems to be a soft spot, as I tried it out once, and I started to hear some creaks and crackles, so I decided against doing that.

I don't want to put them on the rear axle tube for that length of time, so I think this is the best option.

Anyone have some good pictures of stands at these locations?

Sean

PTRocks

I would imagine that it would be ok to put them on the axle anywhere outboard of the point directly underneath the spring perches. That way the tubes won't be loaded in bending any more than they would be when the car is on it tires.

ryan1112

put them either under the axle as Chris said or in front of the LCA mount.

TacoBill

This is where I put my jack stands..

Front..


Rear..
option 1


option 2




If I have to do rear suspension work, I go with option 2.

05stangkc

I would advise against jacking up car by centersection of axle pumpkin. The axle tubes don't like it. The axle tubes are press fit and it can cause issues. It's not a concern on the old 8" or 9" Ford as they were a solid welded housing. I saw a ford bulletin somewhere on this.

kc

TacoBill

KC is correct, however I'm one of those old school guys that know of no other way to get the rear up quickly.

Not to jinx myself or the 5 or 6 other S197's I've helped work on, but we've been lucky so far.

SeanD

Thanks TacoBill. What kind of floor jack to you use? I am looking for a better one that is easier to use when lifting the rear. I have some homemade ramps for front that go up four boards, and have the rear going up two boards, but my jack's lift bar doesn't seem to have enough up down play to allow me to jack it up quicker. I have seen some jacks in the past that have the bar that comes out horizontally for a few inches first and then bends upwards, but I cann seem to find any anywhere.

Thanks,

Sean

TacoBill

I use a Craftsmen aluminum jack similar to this one. But, I always have to use a seperate jack to raise the side (either left or right) of the car first in order for the jack to slide under the pumpkin (or front crossmember support in the front). It's a 2-jack sequence I use and can generally get the front/rear up within a minute or two.

Side jack gets placed under the factory jack point. I use a dense rubber pad on top of the jack pad so not to damage the pinch welds. I've seen these fancy billet adapters that are designed to fit the factory points, but don't recall where I saw them.

Dixie_Flatline

Just saw those the other day (ironically while looking for the UPR antenna delete you mention in your antenna relocation writeup, Bill.)

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-jacking-plates.html

garbledwords

I knew instantly that it was TacoBill's car because it was so CLEAN underneath.

PTRocks

That's because he doesn't drive his car, he just changes parts on it.

TacoBill

Hey now, I do drive it! Just not as much as my DD.

steve-o

Bill,

Perhaps a pictoral explaination of this process? Sounds like thats the best way to go about doing it.

TacoBill

Here's one of Leo's car.. side floor jack can be placed under the factory jack point or under the frame depending how low of a profile jack you have. Once the front end is high enough, roll the front jack under the front crossmember to jack the center up.

Always chock the tires when jacking up the car. And when raised, always use jack stands.

When done, be sure that the side jack is in place to catch the car when you lower the center jack down (basically go in reverse order).

garbledwords

Here is a diagram showing the Ford recommended lift points on a Mustang.

GBStang13

Hey Quick Question I bought a 1.5Ton Lift and want to use it on my 2013 Mustang. I dont want to push the Lift beyond its specifications any idea if that is good enough? Its a Harbor freight Pistburg Aluminum 1.5 Low Profile Jack. Very nice and it was a steal compared to original price

tbear853

It will work, you aren't lifting the whole car at once ..... just maybe half. I have a couple of those 1.5 ton rapid pump aluminum jacks and recently bought a 3 ton low profile rapid pump and all work great. I also have a 3 ton Craftsman but it's not low profile.

Never ever place life or limb underneath until jack stands are in place, even a top name jack can blow a seal. I have responded to some instances and cars and trucks on top of humans just mash ..... and mash .... and mash more.

mrkabc

Ahhhh... Taco Bill... I miss him...