how many miles between synthetic oil change?
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From my understanding.. even synthetic oil degrades, from just sitting in the oil pan for 6 months..
So just to be on the safe side..I would do an oil change, every 6000 miles, or every 6 months..
If using the Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter..I'd recommend changing the filter, every 6000 miles, or once a year..
So just to be on the safe side..I would do an oil change, every 6000 miles, or every 6 months..
If using the Mobil 1 extended performance oil filter..I'd recommend changing the filter, every 6000 miles, or once a year..
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The things that make the oil degrade are
1) extreme heat (not a problem if it is not being run)
2) extreme cold (not a problem if it is kept in a garage)
3) moisture from condensation or combustion by products (see #1 and #2)
Other than that, your oil pan is just one big oil jug. There is nothing in there that would make the oil degrade any faster than if it were sitting on the shelf at Wal-Mart waiting to be bought.
1) extreme heat (not a problem if it is not being run)
2) extreme cold (not a problem if it is kept in a garage)
3) moisture from condensation or combustion by products (see #1 and #2)
Other than that, your oil pan is just one big oil jug. There is nothing in there that would make the oil degrade any faster than if it were sitting on the shelf at Wal-Mart waiting to be bought.
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Let's say for example.. you do an oil change, just before putting the car away in storage for the winter..
Then place the vehicle, in an un-heated garage for 3-4 months..
Don't the colder temps, still produce enough moisture to cause condensation..especially if the car is just sitting around, during the 3-4 month storage period..
Then place the vehicle, in an un-heated garage for 3-4 months..
Don't the colder temps, still produce enough moisture to cause condensation..especially if the car is just sitting around, during the 3-4 month storage period..
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It would not really get much moisture in the system as long as it isn't started. Most moisture in the system will come from running the engine, combustion by-products. The crankcase isn't exactly sealed...but it is close to it. There really shouldn't be any outside air getting into the crankcase to deposit moisture.
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Being that I change my oil every November, before putting it away for the winter..
In your honest opinion..Would it be safe enough to change my oil, just once a year..or would you recommend doing an oil change, every 6 months ?
I also use only Mobil 1, and never go over 5000 miles per year..
In your honest opinion..Would it be safe enough to change my oil, just once a year..or would you recommend doing an oil change, every 6 months ?
I also use only Mobil 1, and never go over 5000 miles per year..
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I honestly believe you can do 1 year oil changes with that schedule. I'm not sure which would be better though...changing it in the spring before you drive it, or changing it before winter. Good question, and both have their good and bad points.
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So in which ways, do both have their good and bad points lol ?
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If you change it before you put it away, it's good because you have fresh oil in the pan. No chance of anything settling out of the oil on the bottom of the pan or any other small space where dirty oil could get trapped.
If you change it in the spring, it's good because you certainly have as much dirty oil in the pan as you are going to get. It has had plenty of time to drain all the oil out of the engine. Another good point would be when you change it, the fresh oil you add trickles down through the engine...kind of pre-lubing it. You don't get as much of a dry start then.
Actually I checked with www.bobistheoilguy.com on this very topic, and it was suggested that for a vehicle in storage you change the oil just before storage, then do not start it until you take it out of storage. No need to change it after storage, the oil will be just fine. They suggested change oil, run car/engine for at least half an hour to get everything totally hot, then shut it off and don't start it until spring.
The reasons are, getting it hot burns off all moisture. Starting it during the winter for a few minutes just creates moisture in the oil (degrades oil and causes acids in it) and exhaust system (will pool and sit in the pipe for months and could corrode it).
I would suggest changing it before storage, adding 5 3/4 qts of oil, not starting it until you are ready to take it out of storage. Before starting it, pour the last 1/4 qt. of oil in the filler hole to prelube at least that side of the engine, then start it up.
If you change it in the spring, it's good because you certainly have as much dirty oil in the pan as you are going to get. It has had plenty of time to drain all the oil out of the engine. Another good point would be when you change it, the fresh oil you add trickles down through the engine...kind of pre-lubing it. You don't get as much of a dry start then.
Actually I checked with www.bobistheoilguy.com on this very topic, and it was suggested that for a vehicle in storage you change the oil just before storage, then do not start it until you take it out of storage. No need to change it after storage, the oil will be just fine. They suggested change oil, run car/engine for at least half an hour to get everything totally hot, then shut it off and don't start it until spring.
The reasons are, getting it hot burns off all moisture. Starting it during the winter for a few minutes just creates moisture in the oil (degrades oil and causes acids in it) and exhaust system (will pool and sit in the pipe for months and could corrode it).
I would suggest changing it before storage, adding 5 3/4 qts of oil, not starting it until you are ready to take it out of storage. Before starting it, pour the last 1/4 qt. of oil in the filler hole to prelube at least that side of the engine, then start it up.
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So would you recommend running it for a half hour, as they suggested.. then shutting it down, and not starting it again.. until spring ?
Or just leave it alone, until taking it out of storage..
Or just leave it alone, until taking it out of storage..
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I would get it good and hot, run for half an hour at least, then change the oil while hot. That's when you should change the oil anyway to get the most crud out while it is in suspension in the oil.
Once you change the oil, start it up for about 30 seconds, enough to circulate the oil, but not enough to get any moisture in it. Then let it sit for the winter. Disconnect the neg. battery cable, and don't start until spring. In spring, just start it as normal, and run the oil all summer/fall.
Once you change the oil, start it up for about 30 seconds, enough to circulate the oil, but not enough to get any moisture in it. Then let it sit for the winter. Disconnect the neg. battery cable, and don't start until spring. In spring, just start it as normal, and run the oil all summer/fall.
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Sounds like a great plan to follow..Thanks again Steve
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#35
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Generic Mobil 1 oil is not a 100% Synthetic is only classified as fully synthetic because it uses group 3 base stock.. I would not go past 5-8K on it. Don't be duped in to the Exxon Mobil merger loss... the product changed after it.
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