2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

Help: Steeda Tri-Ax install Questions/Issue

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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 05:32 PM
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dsmdiggler's Avatar
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Help: Steeda Tri-Ax install Questions/Issue

First off: 2005 Mustang GT JLT intake/bama tune, OR/X, Steeda Tri-ax short shifter, manual trans with royal purple.

I have two questions about my installation and the shifter itself.

1. When I installed the shifter the first time I didn't use any loctite and the bolts all started backing out a little bit, so I took it out and used loctite when reinstalled it. Unfortunately, I used RED loctite to keep all the bolts in place (I know, I know, I should have used blue so don't flame me too hard just a mistake). In trying to adjust the shifter again, I am now having problems getting the bolt back into the transmission that holds the stabilizer bar to the shifter. I am guessing there is caked on red loctite in the threads of that bolt hole.. I really could use help on this one, any ideas on how to get that stuff out of there??? The bolt won't go all the way back in the hole, in fact probably only 4-5 threads. I want to get this fixed so its not "rigged" in there. (I used a spacer temporarily to make the shifter work) PLEASE HELP! To be clear its the bolt hole on the transmission that holds the shifter stabilizer bar that I am having the issue with.

2. Occasionally when I try to take the shifter out of a gear it will bind a little bit. Almost like if I hadn't pushed the clutch pedal down. Example: While driving, if you try taking the car out of gear without pressing the clutch pedal in it will not let you do it, or it would be difficult. I am getting "kind of" the same effect even if I DO push the clutch pedal in. If I move the shifter around a little it will then come out of gear. Sometimes this happens, sometimes it doesn't. My trans has always been like all s197 clunky trans, but never a grind or major issue at all.. Again, just not sure if this is a shifter issue or a trans issue.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. This forum has been a great resource for help/info, if anyone needs more info about my car/issue I will respond as soon as I can. I am on the forums everyday. Thanks again,

Pat
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Old Aug 12, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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Anyone?? Bueller?
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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You need to run a tap and drill in the hole. Both can be done by hand NO POWER TOOLS. I can't remember the thread size so first figure that out. Then get the appropriate tap drill, the drill size used when making a tapped hole. Just turn it in the there with your fingers gently STRAIGHT that will dig out the surplus accumulation in the hole then run the tap in the hole for that you may need a tap wrench but probably better would be a square drive socket for the tap and a ratchet. You should always clean out threaded holes that have had lock-tite in them with a tap before putting the bolt back in.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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Thanks for the advice, I was fearing this would be the end result.. I think I can get a tap in there without pulling the transmission, at least lets hope so. I was hoping to use some kind of wire brush to get it out, but I think the red loctite is just too strong of a bond. We'll see....

Originally Posted by 908ssp
You need to run a tap and drill in the hole. Both can be done by hand NO POWER TOOLS. I can't remember the thread size so first figure that out. Then get the appropriate tap drill, the drill size used when making a tapped hole. Just turn it in the there with your fingers gently STRAIGHT that will dig out the surplus accumulation in the hole then run the tap in the hole for that you may need a tap wrench but probably better would be a square drive socket for the tap and a ratchet. You should always clean out threaded holes that have had lock-tite in them with a tap before putting the bolt back in.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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What about heating the bolt up real good and running it in and out a few times. Not sure if it would work. If you have to run a tap in it you can loosen the bolts to the crossmember to get better access.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CAR-15
What about heating the bolt up real good and running it in and out a few times. Not sure if it would work. If you have to run a tap in it you can loosen the bolts to the crossmember to get better access.
You do realize this thread is over a year old don't you?
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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I'd spray some solvent up in the threads and get a small cylindrical wire brush before I tapped it.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by texastboneking
You do realize this thread is over a year old don't you?
lots of this raising the dead today
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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From: Cleburne, Tx
Originally Posted by PureSpeedMotorsports
I'd spray some solvent up in the threads and get a small cylindrical wire brush before I tapped it.
He could have done that... a year and a half ago
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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From: Sanford, NC
Originally Posted by dsmdiggler
Anyone?? Bueller?
Well since someone brought this back up, what was the end result? How did you fix it? I hate threads without endings
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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From: Cleburne, Tx
The Guy hasn't posted in a while... guess its a mystery.
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