Help pin location on a 2006
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Joined: November 5, 2019
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Help pin location on a 2006
I had part of the harness break away from the transmission. I bought a new clip but the wires are all black. So what I need is the pin location for the DTR It's a 12 pin 6 wire. I went to the dealer the schematic they gave me is wrong car tries to start in drive only.
Thanks
Thanks
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Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
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From: Insane
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Transmis...0-%205R55S.pdf
That is the correct wiring, according to the manual itself. You can also see the color codes, but as with all things... beware that. Running changes happen. This is a 2005 wiring, but it should be the same all the way to 2010.
If that's the wiring schematic you have, then there's something else wrong, likely. You're gonna have to diagnose the wires all the way back up the chain to the PCM.
I hope that helps, good luck!
And welcome to the forums! 
That is the correct wiring, according to the manual itself. You can also see the color codes, but as with all things... beware that. Running changes happen. This is a 2005 wiring, but it should be the same all the way to 2010.
If that's the wiring schematic you have, then there's something else wrong, likely. You're gonna have to diagnose the wires all the way back up the chain to the PCM.
I hope that helps, good luck!
And welcome to the forums!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: November 5, 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Transmis...0-%205R55S.pdf
That is the correct wiring, according to the manual itself. You can also see the color codes, but as with all things... beware that. Running changes happen. This is a 2005 wiring, but it should be the same all the way to 2010.
If that's the wiring schematic you have, then there's something else wrong, likely. You're gonna have to diagnose the wires all the way back up the chain to the PCM.
I hope that helps, good luck! And welcome to the forums!
That is the correct wiring, according to the manual itself. You can also see the color codes, but as with all things... beware that. Running changes happen. This is a 2005 wiring, but it should be the same all the way to 2010.
If that's the wiring schematic you have, then there's something else wrong, likely. You're gonna have to diagnose the wires all the way back up the chain to the PCM.
I hope that helps, good luck!
And welcome to the forums! 
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Starting%20System.pdf&p=1
That's the starting system. Notice only the White/Pink wires on 10 and 12 of the DTR connector matter to it. (Shown on the 'upper right' if you turn the page 90 degrees left so it reads correctly.) The rest shown in the above link earlier is internal to the PCM and the instrument cluster needs (what shows what gear.) So the idea here is this: IF you have pins 10 and 12 correct, and the car is in either Park or Neutral (as indicated by this particular circuit) then the car should start. There may or may not be other interlocks the PCM/transmission through other means (as the starter can turn, but the PCM can still say 'nope'), but this diagram indicates that if the park/neutral is met, and the key is recognized, then the starter's going to run.
Then there's this: http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Electron...204.6L.pdf&p=6
This shows circuit 359, and how ALL THESE THINGS (including things not on this page) wind up being spliced into one 'final' circuit, then that winds up being connected to the PCM at pin 58. This is SIGRTN. This where all kinds of sensors, including apparently Pin 2 of the DTR, wind up going. It's a particular ground for these sensors, as you can't use a chassis ground to make them work. Not clean enough for the sensors. So they use this instead. You'll want to be sure this pin is good all the way to the PCM, or you'll never get this working.
Pins 3, 4, 5 and 6 are indicators back to the PCM where the transmission is. And you kind of have to reverse the flow backwards to what the arrows indicate in the DTR to see what's going on. All these pins show Park as a selection. They then vary as to what is and is not indicated, and using the four pins, the PCM can determine what gear is being desired. Notice that pin 3 has a 270 ohm resistor being spliced off, then connected to the SIGRTN on pin 2. Just remember this for now.
Ok, so it goes thusly. Condition - resulting pin 'on' conditions
Park - 3 4 5 6. (they all indicate park no matter what.) (Also pin 10/12 should be connected together)
Reverse - 4 5.
Neutral - 4 5 6. (Also pin 10/12 should be connected together)
Drive - (None. This is where the resistor comes in! That's the load what says 'I'm in drive' I don't get it either...)
3 - 3 4.
2 - 3 5.
1 - 3 6.
Given that this thing is digital, and also has that resistor, I'm... not sure how to test that. Might be voltage changes, might be ohms (that resistor?) might be a combo... Maybe go to a junkyard and get one off another car and experiment...?
Also, this: http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=246&f=Digital...)%20Sensor.pdf
It's entirely possible you've knocked something amiss, and you'll need to realign or replace the thing. One would hope not, but...
Assuming the DTR is working correctly and isn't misaligned, I just gotta reiterate it: Trace the wires. Colors can be swapped, diagrams will lie. Not intentionally, it just happens. You should be able to do a continuity check (DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!) on an end-to-end basis from the DTR connector to the PCM's. Its' 'just' DTR3 to PCM 27 4-16 5-17 6-28. And DTR10 to BEC-B9, DTR12 to BEC-E10, but since the thing turns over, those are probably skippable.
I don't know if I can help any further. This might be unsolvable without the right tools and know how. This might require a scan tool to do right, although if your connector isn't working right, that'll be a problem anyway...
That's the starting system. Notice only the White/Pink wires on 10 and 12 of the DTR connector matter to it. (Shown on the 'upper right' if you turn the page 90 degrees left so it reads correctly.) The rest shown in the above link earlier is internal to the PCM and the instrument cluster needs (what shows what gear.) So the idea here is this: IF you have pins 10 and 12 correct, and the car is in either Park or Neutral (as indicated by this particular circuit) then the car should start. There may or may not be other interlocks the PCM/transmission through other means (as the starter can turn, but the PCM can still say 'nope'), but this diagram indicates that if the park/neutral is met, and the key is recognized, then the starter's going to run.
Then there's this: http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=40&f=Electron...204.6L.pdf&p=6
This shows circuit 359, and how ALL THESE THINGS (including things not on this page) wind up being spliced into one 'final' circuit, then that winds up being connected to the PCM at pin 58. This is SIGRTN. This where all kinds of sensors, including apparently Pin 2 of the DTR, wind up going. It's a particular ground for these sensors, as you can't use a chassis ground to make them work. Not clean enough for the sensors. So they use this instead. You'll want to be sure this pin is good all the way to the PCM, or you'll never get this working.
Pins 3, 4, 5 and 6 are indicators back to the PCM where the transmission is. And you kind of have to reverse the flow backwards to what the arrows indicate in the DTR to see what's going on. All these pins show Park as a selection. They then vary as to what is and is not indicated, and using the four pins, the PCM can determine what gear is being desired. Notice that pin 3 has a 270 ohm resistor being spliced off, then connected to the SIGRTN on pin 2. Just remember this for now.
Ok, so it goes thusly. Condition - resulting pin 'on' conditions
Park - 3 4 5 6. (they all indicate park no matter what.) (Also pin 10/12 should be connected together)
Reverse - 4 5.
Neutral - 4 5 6. (Also pin 10/12 should be connected together)
Drive - (None. This is where the resistor comes in! That's the load what says 'I'm in drive' I don't get it either...)
3 - 3 4.
2 - 3 5.
1 - 3 6.
Given that this thing is digital, and also has that resistor, I'm... not sure how to test that. Might be voltage changes, might be ohms (that resistor?) might be a combo... Maybe go to a junkyard and get one off another car and experiment...?
Also, this: http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=246&f=Digital...)%20Sensor.pdf
It's entirely possible you've knocked something amiss, and you'll need to realign or replace the thing. One would hope not, but...
Assuming the DTR is working correctly and isn't misaligned, I just gotta reiterate it: Trace the wires. Colors can be swapped, diagrams will lie. Not intentionally, it just happens. You should be able to do a continuity check (DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!) on an end-to-end basis from the DTR connector to the PCM's. Its' 'just' DTR3 to PCM 27 4-16 5-17 6-28. And DTR10 to BEC-B9, DTR12 to BEC-E10, but since the thing turns over, those are probably skippable.
I don't know if I can help any further. This might be unsolvable without the right tools and know how. This might require a scan tool to do right, although if your connector isn't working right, that'll be a problem anyway...
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