GT Arriving Soon, Looking for Paint Protection Advice
#1
GT Arriving Soon, Looking for Paint Protection Advice
Ok, so my '07 GT Premium is arriving in the next two or three weeks and I'm looking for some advice on paint protection. I've read a lot about getting Zainofied but I don't really have much time to spend doing all that myself. With my 2000 GT, I took it to Ziebart for the undercoat/rustproof and paint protection package. I've taken it back annually ever since. I've been pretty happy with that, but two things will be different this time.
My old car was only driven in the summer (no rain or snow), but the new one will be more of an every day driver (still looking to avoid the nasty snow days here in PA). Also, Ziebart now has their "Diamond Protection" that is apparently tougher than the old stuff. Of course, the dealer would like me to go with their stuff which "lasts five years," but we all know how true that is (snake oil anyone?).
I was thinking about getting the Ziebart package and also X-Pel. First, any thoughts on the plan in general? Second, if I go with Ziebart/X-Pel, which one should I do first (I was thinking Ziebart so they don't mess up the X-Pel with their buffers). Thoughts??? I plan on keeping my car for at least 6 or 7 years and I'd like to keep it looking pretty without spending hours on it each week. I am picky and I love to take care of stuff, but my wife + 2 year old + 9 mo. old + job promotion (i.e. more work) just isn't leaving me enough time for all that. I'd rather spend my free time enjoying it and driving it, but I still want to keep it as pristine as possible.
Thanks all!
Jesse
My old car was only driven in the summer (no rain or snow), but the new one will be more of an every day driver (still looking to avoid the nasty snow days here in PA). Also, Ziebart now has their "Diamond Protection" that is apparently tougher than the old stuff. Of course, the dealer would like me to go with their stuff which "lasts five years," but we all know how true that is (snake oil anyone?).
I was thinking about getting the Ziebart package and also X-Pel. First, any thoughts on the plan in general? Second, if I go with Ziebart/X-Pel, which one should I do first (I was thinking Ziebart so they don't mess up the X-Pel with their buffers). Thoughts??? I plan on keeping my car for at least 6 or 7 years and I'd like to keep it looking pretty without spending hours on it each week. I am picky and I love to take care of stuff, but my wife + 2 year old + 9 mo. old + job promotion (i.e. more work) just isn't leaving me enough time for all that. I'd rather spend my free time enjoying it and driving it, but I still want to keep it as pristine as possible.
Thanks all!
Jesse
#2
Legacy TMS Member
I wouldn't bother with any of that stuff any more. Had it done to my 2000 and I don't beleive it has done all that much for keeping my finish all that great looking.
Wash it, clay bar it, wash it and then wax it once every 6 months or so. You could even skip the clay bar if you wanted. Should take less than 2 hrs. Have the honey help you while the kids take a nap. Either that or pay some one to detail it every couple of months.
Wash it, clay bar it, wash it and then wax it once every 6 months or so. You could even skip the clay bar if you wanted. Should take less than 2 hrs. Have the honey help you while the kids take a nap. Either that or pay some one to detail it every couple of months.
#4
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To protect the front bumper / hood paint, you should look into the 3M clearbra. I've heard nothing but good things about it, and unless you know it's there, you won't notice the line on the body of the car at all.
#5
I would just go with a good easy-to-apply wax like MgGuires NXT. I wouldn't worry too much about the front, but I would get headlight protectors, as they are easilly scuffed. Personally I like the Ziebart under car protection packages, they do very good work. I'm getting the sound deadening package to reduce all the noise from stuff hitting the bottom of the car like sand and pebbles, but not the full undercoating. I'm not a big fan of clear bras personally. And get a decent power washer to make life easier(comes in handy for a million other things anyway).
When you pick up the car, just go over it VERY carefully to make sure there is no defects or scratches before you drive away with it. It's hard to get that stuff fixed once you leave.
When you pick up the car, just go over it VERY carefully to make sure there is no defects or scratches before you drive away with it. It's hard to get that stuff fixed once you leave.
#6
Anybody else have thoughts on the Ziebart/X-Pel vs self-wax vs nothing debate???
Jesse
#7
I had Ziebart Diamond Gloss on my 2000 Mustang for five years. It cost ~ $225 to apply the FIRST time, and $125 for the yearly re-do. I also got it for my 2006 Mustang, first weekend home.
If you WANT to do all the work yourself - time and effort - then as others have said, use the very best products you can find and do the work yourself. Nothing wrong with that.
If you don’t want the work and can afford the initial application plus the $125 yearly re-apply, go the Zeibart route - but NOT from the dealer. Let the dealer sell cars, let Ziebart do the Diamond Gloss.
Was it worth it to me … ABSOLUTELY! If I had time and energy, sure, I would do it myself, but alas, my younger days of such vigor are long gone.
Why am I so sold? My 2000 Mustang was repainted because it had environmental fallout damage. Not acid rain as Diamond Gloss should protect from, not bird poop. We don’t know what caused the damage. Something burned through the clear-coat down to the color layer - small dots all over the topside of the car. BUT - the insurance company paid for ALL of it (under comprehensive coverage, $3700) even for a four-year-old car - because the paint looked PERFECT, and they had to restore it to like condition. I could not tell the difference between the after new-paint look as compared to the before paint-with-diamond-gloss look. Well worth the investment, in my case. And this was a non-garaged car, through hot summers, leaf-staining falls, and snowy winters.
This isn’t Diamond Gloss vs. Zaino or others. It’s do-it-yourself vs. outsourcing. Again, you can do as well on your own. But if you want to farm off that duty to others, I think the Zeibart product is fine - just not from the dealer. Just make sure you do SOMETHING - don’t leave the finish unprotected.
If you WANT to do all the work yourself - time and effort - then as others have said, use the very best products you can find and do the work yourself. Nothing wrong with that.
If you don’t want the work and can afford the initial application plus the $125 yearly re-apply, go the Zeibart route - but NOT from the dealer. Let the dealer sell cars, let Ziebart do the Diamond Gloss.
Was it worth it to me … ABSOLUTELY! If I had time and energy, sure, I would do it myself, but alas, my younger days of such vigor are long gone.
Why am I so sold? My 2000 Mustang was repainted because it had environmental fallout damage. Not acid rain as Diamond Gloss should protect from, not bird poop. We don’t know what caused the damage. Something burned through the clear-coat down to the color layer - small dots all over the topside of the car. BUT - the insurance company paid for ALL of it (under comprehensive coverage, $3700) even for a four-year-old car - because the paint looked PERFECT, and they had to restore it to like condition. I could not tell the difference between the after new-paint look as compared to the before paint-with-diamond-gloss look. Well worth the investment, in my case. And this was a non-garaged car, through hot summers, leaf-staining falls, and snowy winters.
This isn’t Diamond Gloss vs. Zaino or others. It’s do-it-yourself vs. outsourcing. Again, you can do as well on your own. But if you want to farm off that duty to others, I think the Zeibart product is fine - just not from the dealer. Just make sure you do SOMETHING - don’t leave the finish unprotected.
#8
www.atlasarmor.com
#9
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=63019
#10
As far as paint issues when new, Dealers will fix any scuffs or chips as long as it is noticed before you take it. Typically you will have no issues if its only a few days later, but it's hard to get something fixed like a scratch 2 weeks later without it being noted originally(otherwise dealers would fiix every chip anyone ever got). Paint defects are covered under warranty, but of course if it is at least noticed on day one you will never have to worry about haggling to get it fixed.
#11
#12
You can find them in tons of places like ebay. They are the 8mil thick removeable clear bra protectors, sometimes called shields. If you plan on keeping the car for a long, long time, you can even get new take-off headlight assemblies for like $200. If it starts looking tired after 6-7 years, just bolt in new ones...I'm getting ready to get a set of painted rocker panels to throw in the attic.
X-pel is one of the bigger brands:
http://www.autoanything.com/lights/6....aspx?kc=ff186
X-pel is one of the bigger brands:
http://www.autoanything.com/lights/6....aspx?kc=ff186
#13
We've discussed this many times before. All of those so called "paint protectants" are no different than a polymer polish that you can buy at Walmart for less than $10 (Eg Meguires NXT as Kevin said above)
Read the fine print and you'll see that that super special paint sealant has to be reapplied every year.
Also, don't waste your money on Zebart unercoat / rust proofing.
Read the fine print and you'll see that that super special paint sealant has to be reapplied every year.
Also, don't waste your money on Zebart unercoat / rust proofing.
#14
You're right, but I'm ok with that. I've been paying Ziebart to do that every year since I got the 2000 GT (initial app was ~ $300 I think, then ~ $80/yr after that). Despite good intentions, I probably just won't get around to doing it myself.
#17
I bought a 2006 Lincoln LS out of dealer stock. The dealer had put on a Dupont paint sealant at a price of $600 (I think the price included 2 more annual applications). I told the dealer $600 for wax was a deal breaker so the dealer knocked the price down to $0 to make the sale. When I got my LS home I found that the "sealant" had been only applied to the hood, roof & trunk, there was nothing on the doors, fenders & bumpers.
#18
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+whatever on the clear bra. I also say nay to the paint protection schemes. I'd just give it a really good wash and wax. Later on do a claybar and wax before the fall and then again in the spring/early summer. It's not that much time and really it'll save you a small fortune and product just as good results. The claybar is great and most people can get away with 1 per year.
#19
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+whatever on the clear bra. I also say nay to the paint protection schemes. I'd just give it a really good wash and wax. Later on do a claybar and wax before the fall and then again in the spring/early summer. It's not that much time and really it'll save you a small fortune and product just as good results. The claybar is great and most people can get away with 1 per year.
Just don't buy the Turtle Wax Liquid Claybar Ice product. Total crap that doesn't include an actual claybar at all.