2005-2009 Mustang Information on The S197 {Gen1}

Good or Bad Idea? Flushing Transmission or just changing the filter?

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Old 7/7/12, 04:18 PM
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Good or Bad Idea? Flushing Transmission or just changing the filter?

So i have changed the spark plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, rotated tires, oil, oil filter, cabin air filter, and now thinking should i flush the transmission fluid which i will have to take in to do or just change the filter. I heard bad things about flushing it. I'm at my 60,000 mile mark and looking for some ideas and input.
Old 7/15/12, 12:56 PM
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I'm around the same mileage as you, and I was advised not to worry about flushing it at this point. I believe he said it should be good til at least 100,000mi.
Old 7/15/12, 01:16 PM
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Some say if you wait too long that flushing disturbs built up stuff and can cause problems. Probably following the schedule in the manual or from the Dealer is good. But for example, my Chrysler auto recommends flushing every 30k. Those owners that do rarely have trans problems. Those owners that don't often have trans problems before 100k. (according to forum talk)
Old 7/16/12, 08:55 PM
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Are you a auto or a manual? I dint think it's bad to flush a manual but a auto with high milage I would still do it.
Old 7/18/12, 04:27 PM
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It's a auto with 60k
Old 7/18/12, 04:42 PM
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I've heard that it doesn't pay to wait too long to change the fluid. If you change it at the recommended intervals, you're ok. If you wait too long, say 100,000 miles, when you change it you can get leaks. That's because the old acidic fluid has eaten away the gasket material and the only thing preventing it from leaking is the waxy substance that builds up in its place. Then when you change it the waxy buildup is attacked by the new fresh fluid, causing leaks. I change it at the suggested intervals. Fewer headaches.
Old 7/18/12, 08:31 PM
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IMO flushing is bad, changing the filter/gasket/fluid/adding drain plug/cleaning the crap out of the pan is good...

Ive *heard* some flushes if not most use their own reprocessed oils, not virgin stuff...and think about it- how can you flush dirt out of a filter without just blowing it back into the pan to circulate again...every auto pan ive ever dropped had a layer of kinda silvery sludge at the bottom(old friction surface particles) and the only way to clean it is to physically wipe it out. my moms chevy had the sticky throttle valve solenoid(common issue) and it started not long after she had it flushed...I dont think it was a coincidence.

in my opinion a flush is a quickfix/moneymaking thing...yes it might 'change' ALL the oil, but with what, and it cant clean the pan crap out... change the filter/oil/add the plug, then drain via the new plug, refill the oil again in a few months(pulling the pan dont drain even half of the oil) to further dilute the old oil, be certain to use name brand oils that directly meet the specs of your tranny.

just a opinion
Old 7/19/12, 07:19 PM
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ratstangresto

http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/5r55s-dipstick.htm

Make it serviceable, do the filter and add new fluid and a dipstick, no flushing needed.
Old 7/22/12, 02:53 PM
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i had mine flushed around 50-55,000 at the dealer. the tech really didnt know what he was doing. always wondered if the fluid level was good. got another flush at a different dealer around 85,000. this time was worse, the tech didnt tighten the clamps good on the lines, and the next week it leaked fluid and went back to get the level checked. now at 105,000 its sitting in the driveway with no R and no D. 321 still shifts into gear, and i`m trying to figure out if i need a new trans.

it did it once, and after playing with the shift linkage and resetting the computer worked good for another week or more then did it again.

tried replacing the shifter, played with the cable, ckecked all the wires and harness, dropping the pan, it was pretty clean other than 4 very small specs of brass and the black dust on the magnet. filter looked the same way but not too bad. fluid was still reddish and didnt smell bad.

if i have to buy a new trans, i`ll service the filter and pan every 30k. not saying the flushes caused my problem but i probably wont do that again. either way, one thing is for sure. need to replace the broken down trans fluid after so many miles. it looses its cooling property and that destroys trans.

dropping the pan, or draining and filling only 5 qts comes out out of 12.8. flushing replaces all of it. tough call for us auto guys.

Last edited by amustangrocks; 8/4/12 at 07:42 PM. Reason: changed mileage for first flush
Old 7/24/12, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by amustangrocks
i had mine flushed around 55-65,000 at the dealer. the tech really didnt know what he was doing. always wondered if the fluid level was good. got another flush at a different dealer around 85,000. this time was worse, the tech didnt tighten the clamps good on the lines, and the next week it leaked fluid and went back to get the level checked. now at 105,000 its sitting in the driveway with no R and no D. 321 still shifts into gear, and i`m trying to figure out if i need a new trans.

it did it once, and after playing with the shift linkage and resetting the computer worked good for another week or more then did it again.

tried replacing the shifter, played with the cable, ckecked all the wires and harness, dropping the pan, it was pretty clean other than 4 very small specs of brass and the black dust on the magnet. filter looked the same way but not too bad. fluid was still reddish and didnt smell bad.

if i have to buy a new trans, i`ll service the filter and pan every 30k. not saying the flushes caused my problem but i probably wont do that again. either way, one thing is for sure. need to replace the broken down trans fluid after so many miles. it looses its cooling property and that destroys trans.

dropping the pan, or draining and filling only 5 qts comes out out of 12.8. flushing replaces all of it. tough call for us auto guys.
Thanks for this info
Old 8/4/12, 06:49 PM
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i ordered a shift solenoid to install so next week i might get lucky. theres no reason to change the filter every 30,000 but the filters are cheap (around $15) and the pan gasket is re usable. it would be a good idea to just drain and replace 5 qts more frequently. i`m thinking about starting to do a program like that when i get back running. maybe a filter every other drain. its a pain to check the level, and a bit messy but its not super hard to do either. i used a couple old brass fittings my dad had saved in a jar, and a hand pump at the auto parts was around $15. i hope this post stays around, i`d like to hear some others opinions myself
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Old 8/4/12, 07:11 PM
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Maybe I'm just old school, but all these new cars with no dipstick for the trans really irks me. I just don't buy into that crap. I want to be able to pull the dipstick and see how the fluid looks and smells.
Old 8/4/12, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Rather B.Blown
Maybe I'm just old school, but all these new cars with no dipstick for the trans really irks me. I just don't buy into that crap. I want to be able to pull the dipstick and see how the fluid looks and smells.
ya, thats some real as a ploy to make more money off people and i think the "imagineer" who came up with it should be
Old 8/7/12, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by amustangrocks
i ordered a shift solenoid to install so next week i might get lucky. theres no reason to change the filter every 30,000 but the filters are cheap (around $15) and the pan gasket is re usable. it would be a good idea to just drain and replace 5 qts more frequently. i`m thinking about starting to do a program like that when i get back running. maybe a filter every other drain. its a pain to check the level, and a bit messy but its not super hard to do either. i used a couple old brass fittings my dad had saved in a jar, and a hand pump at the auto parts was around $15. i hope this post stays around, i`d like to hear some others opinions myself
Yeah I'm liking this idea to I'm going to upgrade my pan from American Muscle to be able to check my fluid. It just doesn't feel right that I'm not able to.
Old 8/7/12, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by amustangrocks
ya, thats some real as a ploy to make more money off people and i think the "imagineer" who came up with it should be
I kinda got the feeling that was possibly a lawyer driven 'update'... Think about it-engine running 'hot idling in park' reaching way back over the running engine for the dipstick... Wether it has to be checked while running (like coffee is supposed to be hot- don't spill it in your lap) or not, I bet someone saw a opportunity to make a bunch of money, by making it someone else's fault if someone put their hand in the fan or something.
Old 8/12/13, 03:03 PM
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My 2006 v6 just turned 35 K, and I was thinking about changing the trans fluid. Summit has a replacement steel pan with a dip stick for 203.00 Or A.M. has a replacement pan that increases capacity by 4 qts. made by the same company. It would be easier with a dip stick and filler tube to change the trans oil. Has anyone use the pans by Performance Auto Trans? Thanks
Old 8/13/13, 10:51 PM
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I'm thinking the reason dipsticks might not be included may be:
it saves manufacturing cost; newer transmissions very rarely leak and should be repaired if they do; modern electronic controlled transmissions require specific fluids for proper shift monitoring. Many people would ignore buying oem spec fluids due to cost and possibly create unneeded expensive problems; Dealers also make more money by making the vehicle hard to service.

We had a couple of 07 Ford Expeditions at work. There was a cap in place of the dipstick tube but upon removing the cap there was a separate small plastic dipstick within the cap. When I did a fluid change I would drain the trans into a pan and measure how much was removed so I could refill to near full without guessing. Then I could road test it to heat the fluid and then check with the vehicle running on a hoist for final top-up. Still a pain and waist of time without a proper tube/stick setup.

On the first time I dropped the steel pan I would drill a 1/2" hole in an area that wouldn't be affected by low hanging valve body or filter parts. I'd then use a 1/2" NF thread castle nut flipped upside down inside the pan and tighten it to the pan with a bolt from the other side. I'd have some of the castles' tig welded to the pan and then remove the bolt. I'd then use a 1/2" NF pan plug with a magnet attached to it. Next change pull the plug and no mess right into a measuring jug.
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