Gentex Homelink/Temp Mirror - Mazda vs Ford?
#1
Gentex Homelink/Temp Mirror - Mazda vs Ford?
After reading that other installation thread about the Gentex mirror I went ahead and purchased the Mazda mirror 0000-8C-G14A (Homelink/compass/temp) instead of the Ford part since everyone said it was the same mirror and you save over $150.
Well I got the mirror and it looks good and there are Mazda installation instructions included but now I'm wondering if there are ANY differences in the kit parts because I was planning on just having the dealer install it (I know).
Actually since I already have the compass mirror from the Comfort Group they probably don't need to follow the regular instructions anyway.
Does anyone know if there's anything in the Ford kit that I'll need or the dealer will need to install?
Well I got the mirror and it looks good and there are Mazda installation instructions included but now I'm wondering if there are ANY differences in the kit parts because I was planning on just having the dealer install it (I know).
Actually since I already have the compass mirror from the Comfort Group they probably don't need to follow the regular instructions anyway.
Does anyone know if there's anything in the Ford kit that I'll need or the dealer will need to install?
#2
They will probably need to run the new harness, not the one that came with your car originally, due to the homelink and temp readout (the factory harness may not have the temp connection built in). Also, I know that the Homelink requires a constant hot to retain it's memory. I'm not sure if the factory one is connected to a constant hot or not. And, they are going to have to take apart some of your interior to place the temp gauge outside the vehicle in the engine compartment.
But, the mazda kit should work, only the instructions are going to tell the installer to tap into particular wires, vs. having to find the wires yourself (the mazda and ford wires will not be the same in terms of location/color/etc).
But, all in all, if the installer knows how to wire something up, it should be a piece of cake
But, the mazda kit should work, only the instructions are going to tell the installer to tap into particular wires, vs. having to find the wires yourself (the mazda and ford wires will not be the same in terms of location/color/etc).
But, all in all, if the installer knows how to wire something up, it should be a piece of cake
#4
#7
In terms of price, I got my Homelink mirror (it dims, but no compass or temp) for $155 shipped, and it is well worth the money. The dimming mirror was absolutely needed, because with the top down headlights shine directly in your face. The little bit extra for the homelink was worth it, because you don't have to keep 3 remote transmitters in your glovebox.
As was stated by someone before, once you have it, you can't live without it.
#8
If you did a search you would have discovered this thread about installing the Mazda mirror in a Mustang that already has the Comfort Group mirror.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...light=homelink
Good luck with the install.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...light=homelink
Good luck with the install.
#10
These mirrors do NOT require constant hot to retain memory. The Subaru version installed in my '05 GT works just fine on switched hot. If you park your car outside as I do, you don't want the mirror driven by constant hot. Someone who breaks into your car also then has the keys to your house (or at least, the garage). Incidentally, mine cost $191.96 + shipping for electrochromic, Homelink and compass only.
#11
These mirrors do NOT require constant hot to retain memory. The Subaru version installed in my '05 GT works just fine on switched hot. If you park your car outside as I do, you don't want the mirror driven by constant hot. Someone who breaks into your car also then has the keys to your house (or at least, the garage). Incidentally, mine cost $191.96 + shipping for electrochromic, Homelink and compass only.
Here are the install notes straight from MITO corporation, the maker of Gentex mirrors:
"NOTE: You will need to find a source for a keyswitched +12V in the accessory and run position. For the Homelink and/or Map Lamp model mirrors, you will also need to find a source for continuous +12V."
That is the way that ALL my homelinks have worked in my previous cars. Yes, it is true that someone could have access to your garage if they broke in. But, here's a stupid question: why did you get homelink if you don't keep your car parked outside. Also, what's the difference between the homelink setup and keeping a regular garage door opener in your car. Someone could still have access to the garage if they broke in.
If it is correctly wired: with the key in the off position, press one of your homelink buttons. The indicator light should turn on. But, the dimmer/compass should not be on.
#12
But, here's a stupid question: why did you get homelink if you don't keep your car parked outside. Also, what's the difference between the homelink setup and keeping a regular garage door opener in your car. Someone could still have access to the garage if they broke in.
Wow, you guys got off cheep. My mirror was a bit over $300. But then again, I like toys, so I wanted the outside temp as well as the compass.
Having had a rental car for 2 weeks now without the electrochromic mirror I have to say that I *really* miss it!!! It's true - once you have a mirror like this you wonder how you got along without it.
#13
I wish I had the temp readout, but I honestly didn't want to deal with taking apart half the car to wire it on the front bumper.
Also, I didn't want to know how hot or cold it really is with my stupid self driving on days that drop-top driving is questionable
Also, I didn't want to know how hot or cold it really is with my stupid self driving on days that drop-top driving is questionable
#14
Installed mine about a month or so ago with the help from Art and Craig on this forum and I just love it.. Couldn't be happier with it, and as mentioned would hate to be without it now.. Especially happy with it at night!
Rusty
Rusty
#15
Originally Posted by mikes rx
. . . But, here's a stupid question: why did you get homelink if you don't keep your car parked outside. Also, what's the difference between the homelink setup and keeping a regular garage door opener in your car. Someone could still have access to the garage if they broke in.
Originally Posted by mrkabc
Hahahaha! +1 to that!
Wow, you guys got off cheep. My mirror was a bit over $300. But then again, I like toys, so I wanted the outside temp as well as the compass.
Having had a rental car for 2 weeks now without the electrochromic mirror I have to say that I *really* miss it!!! It's true - once you have a mirror like this you wonder how you got along without it.
Wow, you guys got off cheep. My mirror was a bit over $300. But then again, I like toys, so I wanted the outside temp as well as the compass.
Having had a rental car for 2 weeks now without the electrochromic mirror I have to say that I *really* miss it!!! It's true - once you have a mirror like this you wonder how you got along without it.
#16
I'm surprised that the switched power doesn't cause the homelink to lose it's codes.
I know what you're saying. I'm the opposite...I don't have a house key on that set of keys, so I am pretty much reliant on the homelink to let me in. Let's hope the power doesn't go out. I might have to break in to my own house if that happens
And, it's also good to have it on the constant 12V in case I lock myself out of the house accidentally, assuming the car is outside...even if that is locked too (man I love that keyless entry keypad)
I know what you're saying. I'm the opposite...I don't have a house key on that set of keys, so I am pretty much reliant on the homelink to let me in. Let's hope the power doesn't go out. I might have to break in to my own house if that happens
And, it's also good to have it on the constant 12V in case I lock myself out of the house accidentally, assuming the car is outside...even if that is locked too (man I love that keyless entry keypad)
#17
UPDATE!!!!
I would like to take back what I said.....I realized that, even when the battery dies, the homelink still keeps the code for the openers.
So, somehow the system can keep the code. I would like to retract my previous comment, and tell ChrisM that he was right.
although, I am still wondering why the instructions want you to connect to a constant 12 volt. Maybe they just want you to be able to use it without having the key?
I would like to take back what I said.....I realized that, even when the battery dies, the homelink still keeps the code for the openers.
So, somehow the system can keep the code. I would like to retract my previous comment, and tell ChrisM that he was right.
although, I am still wondering why the instructions want you to connect to a constant 12 volt. Maybe they just want you to be able to use it without having the key?
#19
UPDATE!!!!
I would like to take back what I said.....I realized that, even when the battery dies, the homelink still keeps the code for the openers.
So, somehow the system can keep the code. I would like to retract my previous comment, and tell ChrisM that he was right.
although, I am still wondering why the instructions want you to connect to a constant 12 volt. Maybe they just want you to be able to use it without having the key?
I would like to take back what I said.....I realized that, even when the battery dies, the homelink still keeps the code for the openers.
So, somehow the system can keep the code. I would like to retract my previous comment, and tell ChrisM that he was right.
although, I am still wondering why the instructions want you to connect to a constant 12 volt. Maybe they just want you to be able to use it without having the key?
The first connection I made at the fuse box was to a constant on circuit (I didn't know that at the time.) I tested everything and it worked fine. Then I decided to shut the car down and, lo and behold, the mirror was still on. That's when I went through the thought process I've described in the earlier posts. I then took the lower connections apart and found a switched circuit to piggyback to. Again everything worked fine and I shut the car down.
I hadn't given thought one to whether the settings would be preserved or not. I simply assumed they would be and I was none the wiser because everything continued to work just like I wanted. It wasn't until this thread started that I realized there might be a difference! Sometimes ignorance is total bliss!
Here's a link to that earlier extensive discussion with wiring tips and all if anyone's interested:
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=15620
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