MrLatte

After reading that other installation thread about the Gentex mirror I went ahead and purchased the Mazda mirror 0000-8C-G14A (Homelink/compass/temp) instead of the Ford part since everyone said it was the same mirror and you save over $150.

Well I got the mirror and it looks good and there are Mazda installation instructions included but now I'm wondering if there are ANY differences in the kit parts because I was planning on just having the dealer install it (I know).

Actually since I already have the compass mirror from the Comfort Group they probably don't need to follow the regular instructions anyway.

Does anyone know if there's anything in the Ford kit that I'll need or the dealer will need to install?

mikes rx

They will probably need to run the new harness, not the one that came with your car originally, due to the homelink and temp readout (the factory harness may not have the temp connection built in). Also, I know that the Homelink requires a constant hot to retain it's memory. I'm not sure if the factory one is connected to a constant hot or not. And, they are going to have to take apart some of your interior to place the temp gauge outside the vehicle in the engine compartment.

But, the mazda kit should work, only the instructions are going to tell the installer to tap into particular wires, vs. having to find the wires yourself (the mazda and ford wires will not be the same in terms of location/color/etc).

But, all in all, if the installer knows how to wire something up, it should be a piece of cake

another 06gt

What is a homelink?? I was planning on one of my next mods tb be temp and compass. Thanks Saverio

MrLatte

Homelink gives you a button on the mirror that takes the place of your garage door opener. Check out www.homelink.com.

RottenRonny

My jeep has homelink. Once you have it, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it.

kevinb120

Don't they have just a micro opener or something similar to the older homelink that just mounts in the visor? Seems like big bucks for a garage opener. I think my mother has a keychain opener.

mikes rx

I had the homelink in the visor of my Maxima, and it was awesome. But, I don't think that someone could retrofit it into another car without some good interior skills, as the transmitter is built into the visor, not just applied to the surface.

In terms of price, I got my Homelink mirror (it dims, but no compass or temp) for $155 shipped, and it is well worth the money. The dimming mirror was absolutely needed, because with the top down headlights shine directly in your face. The little bit extra for the homelink was worth it, because you don't have to keep 3 remote transmitters in your glovebox.

As was stated by someone before, once you have it, you can't live without it.

Mustang Buster

If you did a search you would have discovered this thread about installing the Mazda mirror in a Mustang that already has the Comfort Group mirror.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...light=homelink

Good luck with the install.

MrLatte

Oh, I read that thread all right. That's how I got the info on the Mazda mirror! I was just trying to figure out if there are any different kit pieces in the Ford mirror.

ChrisM

These mirrors do NOT require constant hot to retain memory. The Subaru version installed in my '05 GT works just fine on switched hot. If you park your car outside as I do, you don't want the mirror driven by constant hot. Someone who breaks into your car also then has the keys to your house (or at least, the garage). Incidentally, mine cost $191.96 + shipping for electrochromic, Homelink and compass only.

mikes rx

It should be on constant hot for homelink, and switched hot for the dimmer/compass.

Here are the install notes straight from MITO corporation, the maker of Gentex mirrors:

"NOTE: You will need to find a source for a keyswitched +12V in the accessory and run position. For the Homelink and/or Map Lamp model mirrors, you will also need to find a source for continuous +12V."

That is the way that ALL my homelinks have worked in my previous cars. Yes, it is true that someone could have access to your garage if they broke in. But, here's a stupid question: why did you get homelink if you don't keep your car parked outside. Also, what's the difference between the homelink setup and keeping a regular garage door opener in your car. Someone could still have access to the garage if they broke in.

If it is correctly wired: with the key in the off position, press one of your homelink buttons. The indicator light should turn on. But, the dimmer/compass should not be on.

mrkabc

Hahahaha! +1 to that!

Wow, you guys got off cheep. My mirror was a bit over $300. But then again, I like toys, so I wanted the outside temp as well as the compass.

Having had a rental car for 2 weeks now without the electrochromic mirror I have to say that I *really* miss it!!! It's true - once you have a mirror like this you wonder how you got along without it.

mikes rx

I wish I had the temp readout, but I honestly didn't want to deal with taking apart half the car to wire it on the front bumper.

Also, I didn't want to know how hot or cold it really is with my stupid self driving on days that drop-top driving is questionable

Rusty

Installed mine about a month or so ago with the help from Art and Craig on this forum and I just love it.. Couldn't be happier with it, and as mentioned would hate to be without it now.. Especially happy with it at night!

Rusty

ChrisM

The garage door opener was never left in the car for just that reason! I always toted it in and out - which is obviously a pain in the ***. That's why having my Homelink on switched power is so convenient. My wife, who does park her car in the garage, also finds her Homelink mirror just as convenient - and it means there's one less gizmo cluttering up each car.

mikes rx

I'm surprised that the switched power doesn't cause the homelink to lose it's codes.

I know what you're saying. I'm the opposite...I don't have a house key on that set of keys, so I am pretty much reliant on the homelink to let me in. Let's hope the power doesn't go out. I might have to break in to my own house if that happens

And, it's also good to have it on the constant 12V in case I lock myself out of the house accidentally, assuming the car is outside...even if that is locked too (man I love that keyless entry keypad)

mikes rx

UPDATE!!!!

I would like to take back what I said.....I realized that, even when the battery dies, the homelink still keeps the code for the openers.

So, somehow the system can keep the code. I would like to retract my previous comment, and tell ChrisM that he was right.

although, I am still wondering why the instructions want you to connect to a constant 12 volt. Maybe they just want you to be able to use it without having the key?

IowaBeef

I believe the constant hot is just so you can open your door without the car on. They probably don't want people turning their cars on before the door is open.

ChrisM

Mike, no problem at all - I was just reporting what worked for me. But you also need a little background on my install to understand where I'm coming from. My Subaru mirror came with an instruction sheet that only had pictures! No words at all and, of course, showing only connections to the Subaru harness. And I'm connecting to an '05 GT that has no native harness so I had to run my own wiring. From the earlier thread on TMS about this topic, I found out what the various wires in the harness meant and wired mine to power the mirror (white - hot, black - ground.) I didn't use the black/white lead that is provided for reverse lockout.

The first connection I made at the fuse box was to a constant on circuit (I didn't know that at the time.) I tested everything and it worked fine. Then I decided to shut the car down and, lo and behold, the mirror was still on. That's when I went through the thought process I've described in the earlier posts. I then took the lower connections apart and found a switched circuit to piggyback to. Again everything worked fine and I shut the car down.

I hadn't given thought one to whether the settings would be preserved or not. I simply assumed they would be and I was none the wiser because everything continued to work just like I wanted. It wasn't until this thread started that I realized there might be a difference! Sometimes ignorance is total bliss!

Here's a link to that earlier extensive discussion with wiring tips and all if anyone's interested:

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showthread.php?t=15620