I'm getting ready for front end work on the our '06 GT vert. Still running stock Pirelli's, no modifications. She is a daily driver, not a track car. But I like curves and heel-toe driving fun.

I am considering this a possible major maintenance. I am even considering going with better-than-stock parts. I know Ford Racing has a front end kit, but it is about $1500. I'd like to keep the work to $1500, including labor.

With that thought, what front suspension pieces would you prioritize to upgrade, and for what reasons?

 

You could do a package like this which will give you a nice drop & take your handling to the next level ... without sacrificing ride quality.

We would have to build it to your convertible specs ... but there are several ways you could go.

Labor on these parts can all be done at the same time to save some money!

I can put you in contact with one of our build experts to tailor your package even further ...

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang...kage-555-8410/

You could also add a strut tower brace that will aid in the chassis stiffness

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-2005-20...race-555-5716/

Lastly, we have nice forum pricing ... just to sweeten the deal!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Depends on whether you're going to drop the car or not.

If you're not going to drop, then the prescription is to just replace the stock stuff with stock stuff as needed. The one concession to upgrading is the GT500 front control arms. Other than that, unless you're lowering, I don't see much point to changing the car too much from stock.

I do recommend, since you spoke of curves, a set of GT500 spec sway bars, set to firm. Huge difference in the turns, love it on mine.

And if you'd like better launches, consider a set of rear lower control arms, poly/poly bushings.

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But what'll really help the handling, beyond just putting in Konis or such for dampers 'because' in the case above, is to lower the car an inch or 1.5", depending on your desire. The lowering of the center of gravity will help the car not want to sway over in a turn, making the turn more fun.

The downside to that is that you WILL be upgrading the shocks and struts, for the stock ones do NOT like riding at a lower height. They are tuned very specific to the needs of the stock setup, and bounce the car at a lower height. Konis, Steedas, Bilsteins, Eibach, maybe a few others are the ones you'll be looking into.

Depending on the lowering, you'll need to consider an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the axle. You will also need to consider a camber adjustment kit, either bolts or plates, to correct the geometry of the front end. Also, lowering will tend to make the car bumpsteer, meaning it will want to wander around for various reasons, making more effort to keep it in line, so a bumpsteer kit will be something to consider as well.

Past that, the above sway bars and front and rear control arms should be musts, I'd say.

You can get them a la carte, like I did (Koni orange shocks/struts, Eibach GT500 sway bars, Whiteline bumpsteers, Ford P springs, GT500 strut mounts and Front Control Arms, and BMR poly/poly LCAs and Adjustable Panhard Bar) or you can buy the whole dang kit from one place. Either way, the lower, stiffer setup will be FUN in the curves, guaranteed.

Be aware that as you go lower, the car's ride will suffer more and more. A 1" drop isn't terrible, but yes, it's going to ride more harsh than stock height. A 1.5" is going to be worse. 2"? Yeah, that's gonna be rough. And speed bumps are going to be hilarious. That's the trade off for better performance though.

One last thing. Tires. Either some sticky ones that'll wear out, but be fun in the turns, or wider ones that'll give ya more tire on the ground to grip the turns. Wider might mean wider rims though, so... that's your call, of course.

I do not regret much, except tire choices, getting 9.5" wide rims.

 

Houtex, where did you end up getting your GT500 control arms from?

 

I think American Muscle had a sale at the time or something, so I got 'em from them. You can get them from CJ's, AM, LMR, all kinds of places. They're not an unknown, unobtainable item, as many upgrade to them instead of go back stock, for the ball joints alone.

 

TJ, I notice that kit, which lowers the car front and rear, does not include an adjustable panhard rod. Wouldn't it laterally displace the rear axle position?

 

Sorry, I'm not TJ, but... hey, I know this! *raises hand in a pick me, ooh ooh, Mr. Kotter!!! motion.*

It will. But not a whole lot. It is therefore debatable whether you need it on a 1.25" drop in the back, but the only proof is in putting it on and then measuring the tire-quarter panel lip, both before and after the spring install.

You may find it's not noticeable, and that the car doesn't drive any different.

Or you could be like me and get one anyway, because dang it, I could see it via *eyeball* that the axle had moved out about 1/4" on my 1" Ford P Spring drop.

Yeah. I notice that and my OCD kicks in. But I'd already put the panhard bar in, so I adjusted it and tada and stuff.

 

Hmm ... thank you, Houtex, thought I posted my response yesterday.

Yes, we recommend an adjustable panhard bar when lowering ... the kit posted above is just an example of the type of packages we can build for you.

It is a minimal investment if you wanted to go the lowering route.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

Seconded the 'minimal investment' thing, which is why I got mine when I got the rest of it. Wasn't that much more to ensure I'd have it ready to do, even if I didn't need it.

'Course it turned out I did need it because I could *see* it poked out to the left, so yeah. I'd get it for any panhard bar axle setup when lowering. Sorta the 'sleep very well at night' thing.

 

Yeah, I'm that way too. Even if it wasn't visible to the naked eye, knowing that little oddity in the rear setup existed would make me nuts.

I need to adjust my medication levels, I think.

 

Go big or go stock!!!

 

TJ, I have heard that lowering, while manageable as far as geometry is concerned, can significantly roughen up the ride quality.

I would value your thoughts and feedback on that.

 

Again, not TJ, but I'm a smart alec like that.

When you lower, the ride quality will suffer. Period. You are reducing the recovery travel of the suspension, so the springs and dampeners have to work that much harder to make the car not bounce/jounce like a mad bunny rabbit. When you had (for example) 3" up and down before you hit the stops, but now you have 2.5" to do the same job from a 1" lowering, you have to get a little rougher with the springs, a little more forceful with the valving, to stop the bunny hopping. 1.5" lower? Now you've only got 2".

It is a tradeoff. Either you want the cushier ride or you want the look/performance.

That would be your call.

A 1" drop isn't terrible when set up right. 1" Ford P springs and Koni Orange is a very good combo, I think, and while I can feel the stiffness and harshness in comparison to the stock setup, it's very livable in every respect, and I like it plenty. I have no doubt the Steeda springs/shocks/struts combo is very sweet indeed, but it's still gonna be a little harsher, it's the nature of the game.

But still, given that, I know that if I'd gone 1.5" or 2", I'm pretty sure be saying I dislike the harsher ride that'd be.

Perhaps someone in your area with the drop height and upgraded shocks can let you ride so you can feel it for yourself.

 

That confirms what I was thinking. I am leaning towards staying stock. Ultimately the vast majority of the miles in this Mustang are daily driving and commuting.

That said, I'd also still love a blower/shaker combo. That probably doesn't make good daily sense either.

But what fun. . .

 

Jon ! upgrading to an adjustable panhard bar is only necessary if you lower your car by 1.5 inches and beyond ? Otherwise if your just within 3/4-1.4 inch drop, an adjustable bar really isn't going to make much difference if any at all..

During the 8 years with the Eibach Pro Kit Springs, I haven't experienced any type of suspension nor alignment related issues whatsoever, and that's with the stock dampers including OEM front and rear sway bars..

My front is approx 1.3 inches lower and the rear is approx 1.4 inches lower and both my front and rear alignment are still within factory specs